Giveaway: Stolas Harbormaster Gennaker Watch

The watch has slits in case back for air and water to enter to reach the sensors.Lume on the dial is really great. Tissot applied luminant to the dial and bezel, as well as the hands of course. The SuperLumiNova is applied generously which is certainly a benefit to visibility. There is also the nice bright red backlight for the LCD screen that you can use. The hands seem to be the right length, which is really important in a watch that does so much more than tell the time with the hands.From a function perspective you get a lot with any T-Touch family watch. Inside are Swiss quartz movements specially developed for Tissot by ETA. The combine an analog dial with a LCD screen. To operate the movement there are three pushers (rubber coated on this watch) as well as use of the receptive sapphire crystal. Inside the Sea-Touch is the ETA 48.301 movement which is a variation of the other T-Touch movements. To incorporate the diving features, some others have been removed that you can find on other watches such as the T-Touch Expert or T-Touch II. The Sea-Touch features include (in short): the time, second timezone, perpetual calendar, alarm, chronograph, temperature, compass, dive time meter, depth gauge, and logging functions. If you really want to know more about the movement's features and operation you can access the official Tissot Sea-Touch Instruction Manual here.Using the movement is rather straight forward once you get used to it, and people with experience using other T-Touch watches will be right at home. For those who are new to the T-Touch, you need to press the center pusher on the side of the case to active the screen so that you can activate most of the functions. The dive functions are tough to explain thoroughly but make sense. There are two basic dive modes, manual and automatic. In manual mode you tell the watch that you are about to dive by activating the "Dive" function. The watch knows when it touches water and the dive time counter begins. The watch hands turn into the depth gauge using the bezel as a scale. The minute hand will show you your maximum depth while the hour hand indicates your current depth.In automatic dive mode the watch automatically switches to dive mode when you are about one and a half meters under water. This seems to only effect the dive time. You can later use the log functions to recall info about your last dive. Also, while understand some, but not all of the features are usable. I do like that you can use the compass underwater though! For those who dive this info is all great. For those who don't, you can at least be prepared if someone ever pushes you into a pool.Unlike my Tissot T-Touch Expert which is in titanium, the Sea-Touch is in steel. I like having both in my collection and think that a good dive watch should be in steel. The case is about 44.5mm wide and thick at almost 16mm. It is a robustly sized watch with a bold but no obnoxious stance. Comfort is impressive as I enjoy the flat caseback and how it sits on my wrist. In addition to the rubber strap the Sea-Touch has this option metal bracelet which looks very attractive. The links are mostly brushed with but some polished areas on the their bottom which makes for a interesting effect. Like a good dive watch bracelet it has some micro-adjust settings and a diver's extension clasp. The only thing I would ask for different is a milled deployment clasp versus one that is stamped metal.While the Sea-Touch isn't the dive watch to end all dive watches I don't have any complaints with it really. Tissot did a very amicable job of turning the T-Touch into a real diver that goes into the depth and takes a liking. The added benefit is also a T-Touch that is more durable. I think most people can stand behind the design even if you don't agree it is always suitable for suit and tie occasions. Personally I like this one a lot and the price for the Tissot Sea-Touch watches range from $1,150 - $1,250. You can learn more or purchase them from Tissot online here. Thanks to Tissot for the review unit. Opinions are 100% Independent.

Tissot Sea-Touch Watch Review

I've come to accept that fact that I'll never really use the Tissot Sea-Touch watch to its full capacity. With at least a third of its features specifically made for underwater use, the dive instrument is but a dry reminder of where it wants to actually be while on land. That actually isn't bad, if you like the functionality of the Sea-Touch as a lifestyle item then you have quite watch. This isn't just a dive watch, this is a dive watch that really wants to dive - and that has to do with some of the computerized diving functions. The Sea-Touch is also very attractive, and it happens to position itself between pure diving computers and sophisticated Swiss timepieces.For years Tissot has tempted even hardcore mechanical watch lovers with its T-Touch collection of multi-function touch screen watches. Using a pusher that "activates" the sapphire crystal, you have access to certain features by pressing on various parts of the dial. I previously did a hand's on review of the Tissot T-Touch Expert watch here, where you can learn more about this technology.? This bona fide gadget watch is a serious cool toy and has found places on lots and lots of wrists. In 2009 Tissot released the Sea-Touch, the first diving version of the T-Touch collection, and it is one of my favorites.What first attracted my attention to the Sea-Touch was the size and style. It was just really cool looking. Offered in a sporty black and orange on rubber, or more sober black and white version, it has a masculine look that combines just the right amount of tech and town for me. You could easily wear this watch in non-diving contexts and not be looked at strangely. This is actually a major point of the watch - to look universally good. Most people with taste will agree that while a Casio or Suunto multi-function watch is really cool, there are lots of times when it just isn't appropriate to wear one.Tissot uses that strict Swiss sense of style and design to incorporate all the functionality into a slick watch that looks good with a suit. You know who did that first? Rolex. Now you wouldn't think twice if you saw someone with Submariner and tie. My favorite Sea-Touch is this version (ref. T0264201103101) with the mostly white dial with black trim. There is also another black and white version that is mostly black with white trim. What makes the dial design really sharp are the hands that stick out nicely without looking like orange eyesores. Because dive watches must inherently have hands that are easy to see in murky, low light conditions, often times dive watches have ugly obnoxious hands - not the case here.According to Tissot the Sea-Touch abides by European EN 13319 diving watch norms for legibility, water resistance, anti-magnetism, shock resistance, durability, and other properties. This with 200 meters of water resistance means that you can not only dive with the watch, you should. According to Tissot the recommended maximum dive depth with the Sea-Touch is 100 meters. Perfectly fine with me, especially as earlier T-Touch models were known to have water resistance issues.

Jil Sander is practical and chic

Jil Sander has solved the “office to cocktail hour” bag dilemma! This utilitarian chic bag is the perfect tote for work but look a bit closer, the contrasting orange compartment is removable with a chunky wristlet strap to use as a clutch at night. Okay, so you’ll have to figure out what to do with the rest of the bag if you do go from office to a party (coat check it?!) but you have to admit this is one of the smartest bags of the season. I saw this while shopping in NYC and could not stop playing with it. I took it apart, put it back together, twirled in front of the mirror with the wristlet dangling from my arm and gleefully unzipped all the compartments. I even shoved my wallet, iPad & scarf into it to see if it all fits (happy to report it fits everything plus more!). A sales person came over and I thought he was going to ask me to step away but he grinned and said “Need help?” and proceeded to help me clear counters so I could snap my photos (I love Barneys! The SAs at Saks scowl and yell at me to put the bags away when I do my “research”). White/Orange version is at Barneys New York on Madison Ave. There is a gray version online at Jil.

Girls’ Night Out with Nancy Gonzalez

I’ll be kicking off the weekend tonight with my bestest girlfriends but what to carry for our girls’ dinner? I wish I had one of these hip clutch/cross body bags from Nancy Gonzalez in lime green! Wait, did I just write that?? I never thought I’d ever use the word “hip” and Nancy Gonzalez in the same sentence. Classic, yes. Elegant, yes. Hip??? Why yes, the queen of crocs is getting hip to the needs of young girls. We love a pretty crocodile clutch but when we head for the dance floor we don’t want it clenched in our hands (awkward!). But that’s not all, as everything Nancy does, it’s ultra useful. Magnetic closure will ensure our lip gloss won’t fall out while grinding to Gaga and multiple (4 total) pockets with 6 credit card slots means we won’t need to carry a wallet either (but we will need our credit cards since the hubbies aren’t coming). The perfect girls’ night out bag!7?”W X 5″H $1,450 at Saks Fifth Avenue

Ok, so it’s 15 degrees in NYC and you can’t see the light at the end of the tunnel but trust me, the days of summery dresses and casual clutches are just around the corner! Before you know it you’ll be complaining to me about the stifling heat in the city and that awful smell. That’s when you should escape to Long Island with this gorgeous woven clutch from Derek Lam. The wicker basket weave is polished in a frame style and Derek’s signature tassel give it a hint of playfulness. Dying to wear this with a poppy red dress! I am all about nude colored bags for spring, not only because it goes with everything but it is the most sophisticated color. What about you, what colored bags are you craving this season? $1,390 Pre-order

Dievas Vortex Professional Watch Review

I first want to say that this watch has intense lume. Any watch with a dial such as this mostly covered in luminant is going to glow like crazy. With dark hands and hour markers, the contrast is perfect, but done in exactly the opposite way most watches approach the use of lume being on the hands and hour markers alone. This is my first experience with just such a dial and I have to say that it can come in handy. It is also apparently part of the "pro" that makes this Dievas Vortex watch the Vortex Professional.The original Dievas Vortex watch was released in the summer of 2009. I remember it well, and appreciated the newly designed watch that felt like something truly different from the brand. I wrote then, as I still feel now, that the Vortex is a pretty successful combo of an aviator and diver watch. Two years later the handsome watch was followed up with the Vortex Professional that I debuted here. The Pro version added a specially coated case, different strap, and more legible dial - and now I have reviewed it for you.One thing I can say for sure, Dievas did pull off an even more serious looking version than the original - and by serious I mean better suited to serious duty for military folk (and people who like to pretend they are military folk). The only thing I believe that these types would change is the strap. Not that I don't like the black treated leather with red stitching, but rather I think it is more fashion and function. I would keep that strap for street use, and get an all black strap for more "kill or be killed" use. Actually, Dievas offers the strap with red or black stitching which I now learned after looking into it.All this talking does get me wondering - "what does your typical soldier of fortune buy these days to wear on their wrist?" At the very least I want to know what some militia members up in the Dakotas are using to hunt un-American types. I would very much like to poll these people on their timepiece consumption habits. Would they choose a Dievas Vortex Pro? Maybe. At least I know they would enjoy it if they did. The larger sized 44mm case is comfy and feels purposefully designed. You have 500 meters of water resistance, an automatic helium escape valve, and a sapphire crystal. Funny how on some watches 44mm feels large and on some it feels small. This one wears on the larger side.On the Professional version you have a black coated case. I originally said that it was DLC coated, but now Dievas uses different language on how it is coated. The brand does goes into significant detail on the durability of the coating process. I believe that I got an entire press release on it - complete with pictures. Specifically, the case is "scratch resistant Plasma treated titanium." The titanium is first sandblasted and then coated. I haven't attacked it with a screw driver but it feels pretty stable and I've always been a fan of the look of sand-blasted titanium. It also helps keep the watch light, and the coated titanium is going to be much stronger than naked titanium. Still not entirely sure what the coating process is all about.? Going to be at least as durable as the best PVD coatings if not much better.The case design again feels like a cross between an aviator and a diver. While it functionally looks like a diver on paper, it does have a larger dial and thinner bezel like many aviators. Still, the bezel is a diver style bezel, and there is that 500 meters of water resistance. The dial is about legibility. It isn't quite as sleek looking at the regular Vortex, but legibility is higher. I appreciate the pilot watch style hands and large Arabic hour indicators. That large red-bordered triangle is all aviator... Not to take down the coolness factor, but this might be a nice timepiece for people who have trouble reading their watches due to poor vision.I think that Dievas should also offer a rubber strap for this watch. I think that will be useful to many people. Still, the leather strap is water-proof treated. Little details like that make it clear Dievas is doing everything possible to stand by the "Professional" part of this Vortex's name. Inside the watch is a Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic movement which is a solid work-horse. Nothing fancy, but it gets the job done. Dievas augments it with a custom black rotor. It is overall a cool watch with some interesting features for the right crowd. The original Dievas Vortex is likely a better mainstream piece given the more traditional dial style, but this Professional version does keeps its promise by adding extra case durability and a more legible dial. Price is a reasonable $1,130 and you get learn more or get one online here.

Sea-God Dive Watches

As I discussed on the HourTime Show watch podcast, the term "Sea God" for a dive watch brand sits somewhere between clever and obnoxious. The new Italian brand is an enthusiastic yet unabashed jab are Rolex. From the sharp visual resemblance with Rolex's dive watches to the almost satirical text on the dial of "Superlative Design" - this fashion function line of diver still seems to satisfy.The name Sea-God evokes an almost deistic quality in the watch (well literally speaking it does). To proclaim a watch as god of the sea is a bold yet empty statement. Even the name of this brand is perhaps an unintended comment on how high-end hyperbole has run amok. The name is so silly we end up taking it seriously. As though it is a very well executed joke. While not the first to do so, the trident as the counterweight on the seconds hand is always a plus on these Sea-God watches with names like BlackStorm, BlackShadow, Black & White, and GMT III.First of all, "GMT III?" Really. Rolex has the GMT Master II, so "the Sea-God" needs to bump it up to GMT III? At least it isn't BLACK GMT III. Black seems to be predominant theme in the names, but not in all of the watches. Some of the very high-end colorful precious stone set versions are their nicest. Pricey, but attractive in how they mix sport with baguette-cut stones. Yes, there is a version with black diamonds.The watch cases are 46mm wide and in steel. The bezels actually are rotatable (even though they looked screwed-in). Water resistance is 300 meters. With all the Deep Sea, Sea Dweller design cues in this design, I wonder why it isn't able to go deeper? Crystal is sapphire and the bezel has a ceramic insert. I do enjoy how Sea-God alternates colors on the bezel to give it unique looks.The dials are all attractive. Sea-God did this well, but the proof will be in the final versions. I have yet to see the pieces in the flesh and hope all the materials and finishes on the dial are correct. With a flange ring design from Rolex, Sea-God will need to ensure really high quality to pull this design feature off. If the succeed, we will be rewarded with the availability of some nice stuff.Inside the three-hand model is a Swiss ETA 2824 automatic. A work horse movement, but nothing special feeling. Probably an ETA 2893 automatic in the GMT model. Though with some nice finishing and adjusting the 2824 makes a solid movement. Now you can have more appreciation of the term "self-winding timekeeper." Unnecessarily cheesy - but still a fun one-liner on the dial. The cases come with rubber straps. I hope a metal bracelet is in store for the future.With a lot of options and design choices the Sea-God might be my Rolex homage of choice from what I've seen lately. Even assuming a really high level of fit and finish, they are pricey with starting prices of 2,775 - 3,420 Euros. Precious stone set versions are much more. Around there they are close to price overlap with Rolex and other established dive watch brands. That means Sea-God wants to be taken serious - which makes total sense given their accumulated image.

Dievas Vortex Professional Watch Review

I first want to say that this watch has intense lume. Any watch with a dial such as this mostly covered in luminant is going to glow like crazy. With dark hands and hour markers, the contrast is perfect, but done in exactly the opposite way most watches approach the use of lume being on the hands and hour markers alone. This is my first experience with just such a dial and I have to say that it can come in handy. It is also apparently part of the "pro" that makes this Dievas Vortex watch the Vortex Professional.The original Dievas Vortex watch was released in the summer of 2009. I remember it well, and appreciated the newly designed watch that felt like something truly different from the brand. I wrote then, as I still feel now, that the Vortex is a pretty successful combo of an aviator and diver watch. Two years later the handsome watch was followed up with the Vortex Professional that I debuted here. The Pro version added a specially coated case, different strap, and more legible dial - and now I have reviewed it for you.One thing I can say for sure, Dievas did pull off an even more serious looking version than the original - and by serious I mean better suited to serious duty for military folk (and people who like to pretend they are military folk). The only thing I believe that these types would change is the strap. Not that I don't like the black treated leather with red stitching, but rather I think it is more fashion and function. I would keep that strap for street use, and get an all black strap for more "kill or be killed" use. Actually, Dievas offers the strap with red or black stitching which I now learned after looking into it.All this talking does get me wondering - "what does your typical soldier of fortune buy these days to wear on their wrist?" At the very least I want to know what some militia members up in the Dakotas are using to hunt un-American types. I would very much like to poll these people on their timepiece consumption habits. Would they choose a Dievas Vortex Pro? Maybe. At least I know they would enjoy it if they did. The larger sized 44mm case is comfy and feels purposefully designed. You have 500 meters of water resistance, an automatic helium escape valve, and a sapphire crystal. Funny how on some watches 44mm feels large and on some it feels small. This one wears on the larger side.On the Professional version you have a black coated case. I originally said that it was DLC coated, but now Dievas uses different language on how it is coated. The brand does goes into significant detail on the durability of the coating process. I believe that I got an entire press release on it - complete with pictures. Specifically, the case is "scratch resistant Plasma treated titanium." The titanium is first sandblasted and then coated. I haven't attacked it with a screw driver but it feels pretty stable and I've always been a fan of the look of sand-blasted titanium. It also helps keep the watch light, and the coated titanium is going to be much stronger than naked titanium. Still not entirely sure what the coating process is all about.? Going to be at least as durable as the best PVD coatings if not much better.The case design again feels like a cross between an aviator and a diver. While it functionally looks like a diver on paper, it does have a larger dial and thinner bezel like many aviators. Still, the bezel is a diver style bezel, and there is that 500 meters of water resistance. The dial is about legibility. It isn't quite as sleek looking at the regular Vortex, but legibility is higher. I appreciate the pilot watch style hands and large Arabic hour indicators. That large red-bordered triangle is all aviator... Not to take down the coolness factor, but this might be a nice timepiece for people who have trouble reading their watches due to poor vision.I think that Dievas should also offer a rubber strap for this watch. I think that will be useful to many people. Still, the leather strap is water-proof treated. Little details like that make it clear Dievas is doing everything possible to stand by the "Professional" part of this Vortex's name. Inside the watch is a Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic movement which is a solid work-horse. Nothing fancy, but it gets the job done. Dievas augments it with a custom black rotor. It is overall a cool watch with some interesting features for the right crowd. The original Dievas Vortex is likely a better mainstream piece given the more traditional dial style, but this Professional version does keeps its promise by adding extra case durability and a more legible dial. Price is a reasonable $1,130 and you get learn more or get one online here.

HourTime Show Watch Podcast Episode 80

As I discussed on the HourTime Show watch podcast, the term "Sea God" for a dive watch brand sits somewhere between clever and obnoxious. The new Italian brand is an enthusiastic yet unabashed jab are Rolex. From the sharp visual resemblance with Rolex's dive watches to the almost satirical text on the dial of "Superlative Design" - this fashion function line of diver still seems to satisfy.The name Sea-God evokes an almost deistic quality in the watch (well literally speaking it does). To proclaim a watch as god of the sea is a bold yet empty statement. Even the name of this brand is perhaps an unintended comment on how high-end hyperbole has run amok. The name is so silly we end up taking it seriously. As though it is a very well executed joke. While not the first to do so, the trident as the counterweight on the seconds hand is always a plus on these Sea-God watches with names like BlackStorm, BlackShadow, Black & White, and GMT III.First of all, "GMT III?" Really. Rolex has the GMT Master II, so "the Sea-God" needs to bump it up to GMT III? At least it isn't BLACK GMT III. Black seems to be predominant theme in the names, but not in all of the watches. Some of the very high-end colorful precious stone set versions are their nicest. Pricey, but attractive in how they mix sport with baguette-cut stones. Yes, there is a version with black diamonds.The watch cases are 46mm wide and in steel. The bezels actually are rotatable (even though they looked screwed-in). Water resistance is 300 meters. With all the Deep Sea, Sea Dweller design cues in this design, I wonder why it isn't able to go deeper? Crystal is sapphire and the bezel has a ceramic insert. I do enjoy how Sea-God alternates colors on the bezel to give it unique looks.The dials are all attractive. Sea-God did this well, but the proof will be in the final versions. I have yet to see the pieces in the flesh and hope all the materials and finishes on the dial are correct. With a flange ring design from Rolex, Sea-God will need to ensure really high quality to pull this design feature off. If the succeed, we will be rewarded with the availability of some nice stuff.Inside the three-hand model is a Swiss ETA 2824 automatic. A work horse movement, but nothing special feeling. Probably an ETA 2893 automatic in the GMT model. Though with some nice finishing and adjusting the 2824 makes a solid movement. Now you can have more appreciation of the term "self-winding timekeeper." Unnecessarily cheesy - but still a fun one-liner on the dial. The cases come with rubber straps. I hope a metal bracelet is in store for the future.With a lot of options and design choices the Sea-God might be my Rolex homage of choice from what I've seen lately. Even assuming a really high level of fit and finish, they are pricey with starting prices of 2,775 - 3,420 Euros. Precious stone set versions are much more. Around there they are close to price overlap with Rolex and other established dive watch brands. That means Sea-God wants to be taken serious - which makes total sense given their accumulated image.

De GRISOGONO Otturatore Watc

After some years of development De GRISOGONO released a fantastic new caliber in a polarizing new timepiece with a name I can barely pronounce. Try saying "Otturatore" a few times really fast. I am sure that means something sexually satisfying in Italian, but this is a Swiss brand through and through. De GRISOGONO is a rare band in the US, but one that has a lot of cool and complex pieces. While a lot of brands like to call themselves "avant garde, " I have to say that De GRISOGONO actually is.What makes me sad is how expensive this watch is. It is about 69,100 - 71,100 Swiss Francs depending on the style. It doesn't need to be that expensive, even though the brand did put a lot of work in to the movement development. Offer a steel-cased version for $20,000 and then at least you have my attention more. Much of that 85,000 Swiss Franc amount is going to be justified in the chunky 18k rose or white gold case - that surely uses a lot of metal. The quizzical case is about 45mm wide and about 50mm tall. That is a lot for a square watch. At 16mm thick, this is gonna be a lot like wearing a rod of gold bouillon on you wrist. I'd still lug it around though.Some of you are surely going to take one look at this watch and think "WTF, I would not wear that." Others will be enchanted by the interesting mixture of classic watch style meets angular furniture design concept of the Otturatore. I would give it a chance and feel that the design would grow on me. What keeps my attention after the initial wow factor of the moving dial is?De GRISOGONO's focus on comfort and legibility.The watch is quite legible, and that was sort of the point of the complication system. If you don't get it yet, there are pushers on the side of the case (similar to chronograph pushers), but they are used move the dial window around. Under the dial are four complications, but you can only view one at a time.?De GRISOGONO makes a big deal out of how long it took for the development of this moving dial system to work properly. I get it... it was complicated. 70,000 Swiss Francs complicated. But you made it work boys, so pats on the back all around.The reason De GRISOGONO spent so much time on the dial is because it isn't just "push button and dial window moves." No, they wanted to give the illusion that the entire dial changes in the flash of an eye. There is actually a mechanism that moves the dial window that is not powered by the push of your hand directly. The top pusher merely activates a special system that cycles the dial window. Confused? Good. Get this - the watch has a second mainspring barrel aside from the one for the time. Yup. It is wound by "pumping" the lower pusher a number of times. When you then press the top pusher it activates the system that draws power from the second mainspring barrel to moved the dial window over a new complication. Fun right?Aside from the time the novel De GRISOGONO caliber DR 19-89 is an automatic (yay) and features a subsidiary seconds dial, power reserve indicator, moonphase indicator, as well as date. If you look at the movement you won't think it is an automatic. In fact I didn't know it was an automatic until I read the small print. There isn't a rotor to be seen. No, instead De GRISOGONO hides the automatic rotor (somewhere). How's that for stealth winding for ya?I figure most people will keep the window over the subsidiary seconds dial when wearing the watch casually. The dial itself is textured and features nicely proportioned (but stubby) dauphine style hands that are in gold to match the case. As you can tell, the dial is available in a few colors as well including silver, ruthenium, black, and brown. Each of these colors is available with the rose of white gold case.Wearing this watch with the massive pushers and crown must be interesting. For some it will be fine, for others it will likely dig into their wrist. Though interestingly enough the watch is symmetrical and not lop-sided given the positioning of the strap. I do overall really like this piece and find the over-engineered mechanism amusingly delightful as well as sardonically out of my price range, which is again between about $85,000 - $87,000 (69,100 - 71,100 Swiss Francs). Enjoy it for what it does my friends. Fellow watch lover out of France Francois-Xavier has some fun hands-on images of the De GRISOGONO Otturatore here.Tech Specs from De GRISOGONO:Silver, ruthenium, black or brown rotating dial featuring moon phases, date, seconds & power reserve indicator, self-winding Caliber DR 19-89Movement thickness 9.80 mmMovement dimensions 31.4 x 32.7 mmNumber of components 574Jewelling 28 for the movementVibrations 28,800 A/H, 4 HzPower reserve 42 hoursIndicationshours, minutes, seconds, date,moon phases and power reserveCase18K rose or white gold,sapphire crystal and case backCase dimensions Opening : 31.20 mm x 28.80 mmHeight : 50.16 mmWidth : 44.85 mmThickness : 15.86 mmDistance between lugs : 11.00 mmWater resistance 50 meters (~100 feet)Dialin three parts, clou de paris cobbled pattern,applied figuresHands “dauphine” style in 18K rose or white goldStrap genuine alligatorClasp de Grisogono folding clasp in 18K rose or white goldOTTURATORE N01 - SATIN POLISHED ROSE GOLD - SILVER DIALOTTURATORE N02 - SATIN POLISHED WHITE GOLD - BLACK DIALOTTURATORE N03 - SATIN POLISHED ROSE GOLD - BLACK DIALBOUTIQUE EXCLUSIVITY, LIMITED EDITION & numbered (55 timepieces)OTTURATORE N04

Itay Noy X-Ray Watch Review

The Itay Noy X-Ray watch collection as a concept continues to impress me - I last reviewed their ID watch here.. The idea of this newer piece isn't overly complex but it is satisfying and poetic. I am not sure of what inspired him, but Israeli Itay Noy (a man and a brand) decided to show you what was under the dial of these watches - in what ironically is an unorthodox manner.If you know anything about the watch world, you know that skeletonized dials on timepieces are very popular. Such watches show an actual view into the movements. What Itay Noy wanted to do was offer a traditional dial that illustrated what the movement looked like in a monochromatic tone. It is an artful presentation on the skeletonization concept done in a unique way. At the same time. Itay Noy does actually offer skeletonized dial watches in their Netline collection. I offer some additional info and imagery on the Netline and X-Ray collection here.As an art watch the X-Ray is attractive and unique looking. Depending on your mood and how you look at it, the watch goes from being beautiful to 'watch nerdy.' It also makes me happy that Itay Noy chose not to use a traditional round case. Rather, it bulges where case screws are used to keep the sandwiched sections together. While a bit odd at first the case proves nice to look at and wear. The steel case is 41.6mm wide but feels larger thanks to the thin bezel. Detailing and finish on the case is good. One issue however is the crown. On the piece I tested it was rough to turn, and the crown design is a bit sharp making it uncomfortable to wind given the roughness I mentioned. If other pieces offer smoother winding then there is no issue.The X-Ray watch collection has four dial color variations and two dial designs. This piece is done in black with silvered imagery, while the converse view is always available. There are also two silver and gold style dials as well. The design of the dial has to do with the movement. Inside the X-Ray watch is either a Swiss ETA Unitas 6497-1 or 6498-1 manually wound movement. The difference between these two is just the orientation of the movement itself, which will effect what the x-ray image looks like.One section of the dial is actually skeletonized, revealing one of the palette synthetic ruby jewels. Also on the dial are attractive hands that are properly sized as well as a sometimes hard to see subsidiary seconds hand that is off-centered. An Itay Noy logo plate is placed at the top of the dial while a similar but smaller plate is at the bottom signifying the number in the limited edition.Attached to the watch is one of Itay Noy's rather interesting and attractive hand-made leather straps. Here in black with a cream-colored stitching, it has has a stamped texture on the side of it while using a butterfly deployment clasp. The strap along with Itay Noy signed deployment clasp is nice, but the clasp itself needed to be worn in a bit to lock easily without a firm press.Each of the four versions of the X-Ray watch are part of a limited edition of 99 pieces. With an interesting design and unique character, these are certainly of the mos interesting indy watches from 2011 that don't cost a fortune. They are also a good way to get into the Itay Noy brand if nothing from them so far has moved you. Price is $3,640- $3,900 ($3,640 as shown). You can learn more or buy one from Bareti here.

URWERK UR-110 ZrN Torpedo Champagne Supernova Watch

While this isn't the all-black UR-110 Torperdo watch from URWERK (that I discussed hands-on here), this is a special limited edition version closer to that with a black coated dial and caseback. The original version was in naked titanium. It looked interesting but many people claimed that it looked a bit unfinished. Eagerly awaiting a black-coated model, URWERK has now presented this UR-110 ZrN Torpedo model to us. The black coated dial does look very nice - especially with its red and electric green elements. Rather than a black case front, it is now titanium coated with Zirconium Nitride (ZrN).The result is a color that looks a bit like champagne. Because of this URWERK calls the watch the Torpedo "Champagne Supernova." With such a lofty title, I do hope that the watch does not live up to its highly destructive name. Imagine the bubbles and pieces of cork being hurled millions of light years in each direction.Limited to just 12 pieces the UR-110 ZrN Torpedo Champagne Supernova will be available at just four retail locations around the world. Price is $135,000 (105,000 Swiss Francs).Technical Specifications UR-110 ZrN TorpedoAn édition Spéciale of just 12 pieces available exclusively from Chronopassion (Paris), Marcus (London), The Hour Glass (Singapore) and Westime (Los Angeles).CaseGrade 5 titanium with bezel in 316L sandblasted stainless steel treated with *Zirconium NitrideDimensions: 47mm x 51mm x 16mmTwo-position winding crown with coverWater resistance: Pressure tested to 3 ATMMovementCalibre: UR 9.01 self-windingBalance: MonometallicJewels: 46Frequency: 28,800v/h, 4HzBalance spring: FlatPower: Single mainspring barrelPower reserve: 39 hoursWinding system: Unidirectional winding rotor coupled to twin turbinesFinish: Circular graining and diamond polishingChamfered and polished screw headsIndicationsRevolving satellite complication with rotating hour/minute modules mounted on planetary gearsControl Board: Day/Night indicator; “Oil Change” indicator and running seconds*Please note that ZrN (Zirconium Nitride) is an industrial treatment that can result in variations in and the color/hue on the bezel and between individual models.

Eva Leube Ari Watch

If you haven't yet realized it, the allure of independent watch makers is the watch maker themselves. If the same watches came from large established brands - they would not have the same effect. Some of the watches might actually sell better if they came from the larger brands, but they would not be as memorable and our emotional connection to them would not be as great. The allure of the little guy (or gal) is as much in their personality as it is in their craft.This time around the indy watch maker du jour is unique due to talent as well as the fact that it is a woman. Female watch makers are rare. That doesn't mean that female watch workers are (you'll learn that they are quite common if you visit any watch manufacture), but the ones who make their own pieces entirely are.At Basel 2011 while strolling through the AHCI area (where many of the indy watch makers display) I met watch maker Eva Leube and checked out her new piece called the Ari watch. The name was minorly ironic because she named it after her son named "Ari," and sometimes people call me "Ari" (although technically it isn't actually short for Ariel).Eva was soft spoken, but confident. Of German descent, she now lives in Sydney Australia. A job with Rolex Australia took her down under a few years ago it seems. Though she is a Swiss trained watch maker. It does seem to be the case that many such souls work for larger brands before spilling off on their own. One personality trait that seems to be common to all of them is the ability to be self-motivated, and be able to manage themselves. What many people don't know is just how much work it can take to release and industrialize just one watch - and that is before important aspects of a business such as marketing, sales, and customer service. Running and starting a small watch brand is not easy.The Ari watch is a women's piece, though it is a larger piece. It is more long and skinny on the wrist actually. The manually would movement created by Eva Leube is like a stretched pocket watch movement with a large single mainspring barrel and a large escapement that runs at 18,000 bph. Like the case, the movement is steeply curved to create an arch. In the middle is the display for the time, topped by a subsidiary seconds hand. At the top is the balance spring. For comfort and symmetry, the crown is located at the bottom of the watch. You'll also find a metal crown guard as part of the strap. The design and layout of the dial is very satisfying - though the inclusion of a power reserve indicator would have really be the icing on the cake.I really do enjoy the design of the movement. It is very classic in form and execution with an emphasis on aesthetic and traditional decoration. On the mainspring barrel you'll find a hand-engraved "Eva Leube" logo. The question comes up for me "is it a woman's watch or a men's watch?" I don't actually know if it is either. I am inclined to place it in the "unisex" category - a category I dislike. There are three types of watches out there in my opinion. Men's watch, women's watches, and men's watches that a woman would be happy to wear. Though on occasion I have discovered a fourth category which is the always amusing "women's watch that certain men will wear."? In which does the Ari fall in to?The case is available in 18k gold (various gold colors available) or platinum and is 52.44mm long by 21.6mm wide. In addition, the dial/movement is done in matching gold or platinum. This is narrow for a men's watch, but makes up for it in length. The design of the movement and dial is more or less masculine in my mind. The attached galuchat strap? In this case it is pretty feminine. Strap on a black alligator strap and you pretty much have a men's piece. A men's piece that women can feel more than comfy wearing. In fact, according to Eva Luebe, all Ari watches will come with a custom made strap depending on what the client watches.The curved case style is meant fit over one's wrist nicely. It is also considered a technical difficulty to design a movement that is wrapped in this manner. I haven't put the watch on my wrist yet, but it looks comfortable and like a very cool bracelet. Reading it is simple and the large exposed balance wheel is a treat to watch. On the front and sides of the watch are sapphire crystals for a series of really clear views in to the movement. Finishing and decor is rather nice and the overall concept seems satisfying.Unlike a lot of other independent watch maker around, Eva Leube's first offering is not a spectacle of high-complications and elaborately unorthodox design. Instead, she offers an almost sober timepiece with some unique elements that is sure to be appealing. I look forward to learning more about Eva, and seeing her future work. Much of the watch is customizable depending on the customer. This includes the strap, aspects of the decoration, and the material. Price is 76,000 Euros in 18k yellow or rose gold, 78,000 euros in 18k white gold, and 93,000 euros in platinum.Tech specs from Eva Leube: Ari WatchCase and DialsCase: Available in 18k gold or platinum 950. Crown and buckle in metal to match caseDials: Both dials in 18k goldCrystals: Three anti-reflection sapphire crystals (top and both sides)Crown: Screwed locking crownBracelet: Leather bracelet custom-made to client's specificationsEngraving: Case/movement hand-engraved by master engraver John W. ThompsonDimensions: 52.44mm x 21.6mm x 8.45mm (height)MovementBalance: Free sprung balance with regulating screwsBalance frequency: 18,000 vph/2.5 HzBalance diameter: 15mmPower reserve: 40 hrsNumber of jewels: 18Number of components: 209Chatons: 18k goldGear train: Highly-modified gear train from a Record 302 calibreFinishing: Main plate and bridges in rhodium-plated brass, ratchet wheel hand-engraved 'Eva Leube'

Ulysse Nardin Watch Manufacture: Where Technology Meets Pride

Patrik Hoffmann was given the position of Ulysse Nardin CEO after the brand’s long standing CEO Rolf Schnyder sadly passed away in the spring of 2011. He recalls Rolf with extreme fondness, referring to how he treated him like a son in many ways, and how for long periods of time he would live at Rolf’s Swiss home while Mr. Schnyder lived in Malaysia for long parts of the year. In many ways he was being bred to take over the historic brand that Rolf saved during the quartz crisis in the 1980s.Just a few weeks before his death I saw Rolf at Baselworld who offered a small speech on the future of Ulysse Nardin. He seemed energetic but those closest to him knew he had been not well for a while. Nevertheless, it was important for Rolf to share news on the brand’s upcoming caliber UN-118 movement that would be placed in the brand’s highest volume watches such as the Marine Chronometer.The UN-118 will contain technology that I believe is very important to the watch industry’s future, and its story begins with the Freak watch that was released about 10 years ago. Ulysse Nardin likes to say that it is a product driven, not marketing driven brand. I don’t know what that means to the lay-person, but I understand their meaning well as being someone familiar with the watch industry. The idea is that they focus more on selling a product versus a lifestyle images created through marketing. When you look at things like Diamonsil, it is hard to disagree.The Freak watch was novel for showcasing silicium as a movement component. In the US we call it silicon. Silicon parts in watches are very hardy and require no lubrication. They are also more or less impervious to environmental conditions such as cold or magnetism. All-silicium watch movements are coming in the future in my opinion, but the material alone can be brittle. To solve the problem of silicium’s fragility, Ulysse Nardin invested in (and eventually bought), a company that applies diamond coatings to silicium parts (I think the diamond compound is actually grown on the silicon). The combination of the words silicium and diamonds is where the term “Diamonsil” comes from. The caliber 118 (as called internally) will have a Diamonsil hairspring and escapement – which Ulysse Nardin also makes entirely by themselves.Producing their own movement has more to do with practicality than it does image. For years Swatch Group owned ETA has been threatening to no longer supply brands with movements. Ulysse Nardin has long since relied on ETA bases for its mainstream movements which are then modified by Ulysse Nardin. The brand’s highest-end Ulysse Nardin pieces are another story. Delays, price increases, or complete lack of parts from ETA would be an unwelcome eventuality to say the least. The overall sentiment in the watch industry right now is that no matter what happens at ETA, the outcome in unpredictable. This has led to a surge of innovation and investments, whereby non-Swatch Group brands are either making their own movements, or looking for suppliers elsewhere. Ulysse Nardin as a high-end brand, would of course like to dictate its future as much as possible.

Harry Winston Midnight Big Date Watch

With pieces like the Opus Eleven being so popular it is easy to miss other new Harry Winston watches for 2011 that are interesting. The Midnight collection received a rather major over-haul (retro-haul) among a few models. The most interesting is the Harry Winston Midnight Big Date.Functionally the Midnight Big Date is a simple watch. You have a nicely made Swiss automatic movement with an off-centered dial for the time and a rather prominent big date indicator located near 6 o'clock. However, given that simple layout the dial and case design come together artfully with an inspired display.Available in 18k white or rose gold the case is 42mm wide - which I appreciate despite the "formal" nature of the design. In my opinion the best classy watches these days are ones that are both thin and wide. If you are a Harry Winston watch fan you'll recognize how this design is certainly "held back" in comparison to some of their more aggressive, avant garde designs. Harry Winston seems to have wanted to ride to elegant watch ride for a while so the 2011 Midnight collection pieces are all about that.Aside from the size, what I really like about the case is the finishing as well as the deeps cuts in it that add shape and hearken to the larger and more sporty pieces in the collection. Even the "crown claw" gets service on the design of the watch. At 10mm thick, the case in my opinion could easily be considered a "thin watch."Do you love the dial or does it do nothing for you? Personally the series of circles and textures are appealing. My favorite part? The symmetry. Harry Winston watches somethings abhor symmetry just for the sake of asymmetry. Though the new Midnight collection pieces are all pared to the Midnight Automatic (that I covered here), the Midnight Big Date has a lot going on. The dial is comprised of several overlapping zones that further create a few layer planes. It all seems to work together artfully, and even though the dial for the time is small, it is legible. How do you feel about those elongated space rock style hands? They look like icons from a Marvin the Martian cartoon.Did you notice the diamond? Yup, there is one on there. I mean this IS a Harry Winston watch - so why not place a shiny stone on there is possible. Look at the top of the ring around the big date indicator and there is a single diamond placed there for your viewing enjoyment.Inside the watch is a Swiss automatic movement that is viewable through the sapphire display back window. I like that it is an automatic and that it has about 70 hours of power reserve. While not something I would wear daily (I certainly don't dress well enough for that), I do quite like this new Midnight Big Date watch from Harry Winston. Price is about $30,000.

De Bethune Dream Watch IV iPhone 4S Luxury Case

De Bethune has released what I think is probably the most high-end and beautiful iPhone 4s case I have ever seen. They started last year I think with phone cases when they released the classy looking De Bethune DBM. That case was in alligator and has a traditionally styled clock style watch in the back of it. This new case is totally futuristic and looks like your iPhone 4S is now a spaceship. Called the Dream Watch IV, the watch dial itself build off of the one-of-a-kind watch De Bethune made for the Only Watch 2011 auction.Limited to just 12 pieces the Dream Watch IV iPhone 4S case is made out of beadblasted titanium. The finish should look amazing if I know anything about De Bethune timepieces. The watch dial itself is done in a specially colored blue titanium with diamonds and 18k white gold to look like stars. Purely mechanical, the time is told via discs that read the hours and minutes. These dials are simply put, gorgeous. Still not sure how the watch is wound or where the crown is. Now you can protect your iPhone 4S with a case you are actually more concerned about damaging. Like I said, only 12 pieces will be made.

Hublot Is Official Watch Maker & Timekeeper Of Ferrari

Hublot announced today that they have partnered with Ferrari to become (among other things) their official watch maker and official time keeper. This means that during their agreement only Hublot can produce Ferrari branded timepieces. Hublot will also be a branded partner during Ferrari events (and likely the Ferrari name will be displayed at many Hublot events). They refer to this as a "comprehensive agreement covering all the activities of Ferrari and Hublot..." I know, a bit vague, but I think we get the idea.Ferrari has had an interesting history with watches. For a long time there were a range of lower-priced quartz watches. Then they worked with high-end brand Girard-Perregaux for some nice watches. After that they entered into what most people generally agree was a failed relationship with Panerai. After that Cabestan produced some very interesting highly limited Ferrari timepieces. There might be even more history that I am not considering. Starting today it is all about Ferrari and Hublot exclusively. With Hublot's strong track record being the official watch maker for Formula 1, they were probably able to show Ferrari all the highly marketable high-end pieces that they can produce. I anticipate some cool watches and events moving forward.

Hublot Big Bang Chrono Tourbillon Ferrari Watch

It's here. This is the first Ferrari branded Hublot timepiece to come out of the two brand's joint partnership. Unveiled in China, the watch called the Hublot Big Bang Chrono Tourbillon Ferrari is meant to celebrate the quizzically celebration-worthy 20th anniversary of the first Ferrari car sold in China. I don't even think the dealerships there knew about that.Limited to just 20 pieces the watch (ref. 308.QX.1110.HR.SCF11) will be offered in a 44mm wide all carbon fiber case with red tinted sapphire crystal. See the Ferrari logo as part of the chronograph subdial. The movement is the Hublot caliber 6300 column-wheel chronograph with tourbillon and power reserve. You can see the full tech specs below. Hublot considers this as a bit of a preview for a larger Ferrari watch collection from the brand that will debut at Baselworld 2012.Tech Specs from Hublot:BIG BANG CHRONO TOURBILLON FERRARI20th Anniversary of the First Ferrari in ChinaTechnical detailsReference 308.QX.1110.HR.SCF11Series 20 pieces numbered from 01/20 to 20/20Unveiled in Guangzhou, China to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the first Ferrari in ChinaCase Big Bang - Diameter 44 mm, made from carbon fibreBezel Carbon fibreCrystal Red sapphire with Hublot transferBezel Lugs Black composite resinLateral inserts Black composite resinCrown ? 8.40 satin-finished, with black rubber insertScrews Black PVD titaniumPush-pieces 2 o'clock satin-finished black with red lacquerCase-back Carbon fibre with red inscriptionsCase-back crystal "20th Anniversary of Ferrari in China" transfer, with Ferrari Horse in the centreWater resistance 10 ATM, i.e. approx 100 metresDial Matt black with black nickel indexesFerrari Horse in the centre of the Chrono minute counter at 2 o'clockHands Faceted & polished hands + red 60-min counterMovement HUB 6300 Column-wheel chronograph, clutch Tourbillon escapement coupled directly to the cage, with power reserve indicator on the dial sideNo. of components 269Jewels 35Bridges Carbon fibreScrews Polished steelMain plate Circular-grained black goldBarrel Reinforced springEscapement Glucydur hairspringPower reserve Approximately 120 hoursStrap Adjustable black rubber and black Porosus Hornback crocodile strap, with red stitchingClasp Big Bang micro-blasted black PVD titanium deployant buckle, micro-blasted black PVD titanium cap, micro-blasted black ceramic decorative plate, black ink engraving and polished black PVD screws

Montblanc Watches Offically Available To Buy Online

I was just informed by Montblanc that pretty much all Montblanc products are not available online for sale. I don't think their eCommerce site just launched but is still relatively new. I mention this for a few reason. First, it makes it easier for all people to get Montblanc watches, pens, and other products irrespective of where they live. It also is another win for the effort to sell more high-end items online.When I first started doing this, it was for the most part considered totally taboo to sell luxury items online. Brands thought that it would cheapen their product and set up warnings online for people to never buy their watches or other goods via the internet. A few years later so much of that is changing, and it is being spearheaded by the major? brands such as I have predicted. The little guys who aren't on board yet will follow suit. It is only a matter of time before you can "officially" buy Rolex and Patek Philippe watches online as well.Montblanc joins fellow Richemont brand Cartier in offering much of their product range online. The pleasant looking eCommerce site is rather simple and easy to use. Gone is much of the annoying Flash animations and complex UI screens of the past. I am happy that they focused on ergonomics versus some convoluted theatrical eShop platform that might have been expected a few years ago. So check out their eShop if you are interested in Montblanc stuff, here is a direct link to viewing the Montblanc watch collection online.

Roger Dubuis EasyDiver Blackswan Watch

As a supplement to the new for 2010 EasyDiver collection (that I wrote about here), Roger Dubuis has released a limited edition EasyDiver Black Swan watch you see before you. These are all revisions of years of EasyDiver watches and/or other sport models from Roger Dubuis - most have been good, all have been interesting.The Black Swan, as it is called, is named as such for use of a black ceramic bezel. While ceramic bezels are no longer particularly uncommon, this one is interesting given how complex the shape is. It is still not nearly as easy to cut ceramic as it is metal. For instance, how many square ceramic cases have you seen? While I don't know the particular ins and outs of how the bezel was made, I would guess it is significantly more complex than just a ring-shaped ceramic bezel. The complexity comes in with the notches and the numerals done in pared to the watches from 2010 the Black Swan certain has more of a night look. I would go so far as to say "black swan" look. Is that like black sheep? Black Swan makes me think of something dark and elegant - which I guess in a sense this watch is. Mostly I think back to other names that Roger Dubuis added to its dive watches that are equally silly such as "SAW" (sport activity watch), and Seamore.Aside from the black ceramic bezel the case is in steel and 46mm wide. There are carbon fiber inserts on the sides of the case (which you can see if you like to the previous article above). Quality and comfort are high for this range. The Black Swan comes in three dial choices. All that changes on each are the hands and hour indicators. What do you prefer, black, white, or orange lume?Other than the bezel and minor dial changes the EasyDiver Black Swan is the same watch as the 2010 new model as far as I can tell. Inside the watch is a Roger Dubuis in-house made caliber RD821 automatic movement. The watches are water resistant to 300 meters and come on nice rubber straps. Unfortunately the price is pretty high, even though there will only be 88 Black Swan watches made. Up from about $13,000 for the 2010 Roger Dubuis EasyDiver models, the Black Swan will retail for around $20,000? (13,900 Euros).

Breitling Chronomat 44 Limited Edition US Veterans Tribute Watch

As an interesting limited edition watch for the United States, this Breitling Chronomat 44 watch will be limited to just 50 pieces and bear the Great Seal of the United States along with the message "Breitling for America. United We Stand" on the rear of the watch.A few years ago the Chronomat 44 watch came out and contained Breitling's first in-house made movement called the Caliber 01 chronograph automatic. 44mm wide and in Breitling's lovely polished steel case, this watch serves as a fitting base for the limited edition. This model with its black textured dial and red accents is a real handsome piece. The case and dial design are aging very gracefully and this is truly a handsome piece. Breitling is actually one of the only brands that does make watches simply too large for my wrists, and I almost never say that. This 44mm wide version of the Chronomat isn't one of them however.Depending on who you are and your perception of the message on the rear of this watch you'll either love it or hate it. When it comes down to it, this is Breitling banking on the power of iconography to push this piece to the patriotic US consumer. Would it be cool to have a Breitling watch with the Great Seal of the US on the back? Sure. Would I pay a handsome premium for it? Not sure. Another carrot is that sales proceeds of the 50 watches will go to benefit the Fischer House Foundation charity.The Fischer House Foundation is a charity that produces housing for the families of soldiers in the military who are receiving medical treatments. The housing is meant to be temporary housing for the families while they stay nearby VA centers and other military hospitals while their loved ones get care and treatment. It is a pretty legit foundation.Overall the pieces are really nice, but I don't see much of a connection to veterans on the watch itself. The watch itself is about Breitling and America (sort of), while the charity doesn't really connect with the timepiece theme. If you think about it, Breitling designers could have done some awesomely artistic stuff using the concept of remembering veterans (in the US and around the world). Those people interested in these limited edition Chronomat 44 US Veteran Tribute watches will only be able to find them at Breitling boutiques in New York City and Aventura, Florida. Or call (855) 999-1884. I recommend that you call and just talk about any ol' Breitling stuff. Price for each of the 50 pieces is $8,960.

Jean Dunand Shabaka Watch Hands-On

Hands-on with the Shabaka watch was very interesting. I have been fascinated by the Art Deco-themed watch by Jean Dunand since it came out a few years ago. Jean Dunand is an interesting super-high-end brand that produces exclusively "piece unique" creations. On my wrist is an 18k white gold Shabaka with a baguette diamond-lined bezel.I think the Shabaka originally came out in 2007, but new pieces are slowly being made. The movement is entirely made and designed by Christophe Claret. In fact, all Jean Dunand watches (Tourbillon Orbital, Palace) have movements done by Christophe Claret. Until Mr. Claret had his own brand, Jean Dunand was basically it.The Shabaka watch design is a combination of Art Deco and modern Egyptian, if that latter term even makes sense. There is something very strong and architectural about the design, like a fortress on the wrist. The size of the watch is 44mm wide, I believe, but it is very tall. The many angles of the case coalesce with a dial design that is highly unique. Here, Claret went all out with rollers and discs.Inside the watch is Christophe Claret caliber CLA88QPRM. I like trying to decode the movement name. The CLA obviously means Claret. The numbers involve what movement it is, either in some chronological or formal scheme. "QPRM" relates to the functionality, which is probably "quantieme perpetual repetition minutes." Or something like that. As the name implies, the movement has a perpetual calendar, moon-phase indicator, and minute repeater. Oh, and the time--if you can spot the hands. On the rear of the watch you can see the movement. Part of it says "power reserve indicator", so I guess you can add that function to the list. It actually works by offering a view to the mainspring to see how tightly wound it is.Based on a few of his watches, I have deduced that Christophe Claret has a pet-peeve about pushers that you can accidentally press--but at the same time he prefers against inset pushers. So what he did for this watch was engineer little lever-locks on the underside of the case that apply to the pushers that adjust the calendar functions. Clever, right? However, you will see one inset pusher on the side of the watch which is likely for the leap year adjustment.The dial of the watch shows the date, month and day-of-the-week on red aluminum rollers. The concept is very cool and was later applied in other ways to watches such as those Claret designed for Maitres du Temps (the Chapter One). Activating the minute repeater, a Christopher Claret specialty, requires pulling down on the lever on the left side of the case.The imposing look of the watch is multiplied by its incredible exclusivity and rarity. It looks pretty cool on the wrist as well, if you can pull it off. This model with diamonds is new, of course. One like it may be made in 18k rose gold as well. The way Jean Dunand often offers a new "piece unique" is by producing the same watch but with minor color or material differences. Still, they are produced in an extremely limited fashion. The Shabaka watch, named after the Egyptian pharaoh, with its diamond bezel is priced at around $500,000.

HourTime Show Watch Podcast Episode 88

In 2007, I built as a hobby site to share my love of watches with other people. Now, over four years later - and with more than 2,000 posts - aBlogtoRead.com is no longer just about me, but a team effort. The blog has evolved with the help of talented designers, programmers, and artists. In addition to my regular articles, aBlogtoRead.com has a growing roster of dedicated contributors. Moving forward the site will be more of a team effort - multiple voices with a singular passion in bringing you the best watch content.My gratitude goes out to the many aBlogtoRead.com sponsors and supporters who have been instrumental in making the site what it is today. The site exists for the readers and many dedicated watch lovers all over the world. You've made it fun, interesting, and worth the effort. So please continue to participate and enjoy aBlogtoRead.com. Thanks for keeping the time good.

We finish up the gift guide with high-end watch recommendations and then proceed to discuss my trip to Nivarox. We also discuss upcoming high-end watch brand HYT.Listen to the HourTime Show watch podcast episode 88 here. Download the MP3 here.