RGM Pennsylvania Tourbillon Watch Hands

The boys in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania have done us Americans proud. However, I found it ironic that I needed to see this American-made watch in Switzerland. This is the RGM Pennsylvania Tourbillon MM 2 watch. Almost all of it is made in American, including the case and much of the movement. Certain parts, like the balance spring, really make no sense to try to manufacture yourself. Designed after classic American pocket watches, the Pennsylvania Tourbillon is a handsome timepiece for discerning collectors and you don't have to be American to like it.I previously wrote about the RGM Pennsylvania Tourbillon MM 2 watch here. There you will learn more about RGM, the technical specs, and other facts that I don't feel like repeating here. This is about my hands-on experience with the first-ever American made tourbillon watch. A while back, the US made a lot of watches. We bested Switzerland and brands like IWC were actually created when the US decided to outsource its watch-making to Switzerland - no joke.Since those golden days, and the quartz crisis/revolution, the US has all but stopped making watches in any mass amount. While there are a number of small US watch brands, few do anything with movements. RGM, based in one of the watch hotspots of the US, made their first movement (the caliber 801) a few years ago. They have since followed up with the Pennsylvania Tourbillon. The movement is manually wound with a slow beat, large diameter tourbillon opposite an off-centered watch dial. The face of the watch is all about appreciating the movement - with its German silver engraved dial and exposed mechanics. A traditional movement throughout, it has a unique American flavor and design.Finishing is impressive, and I like the high polish and design of the case. There is a small sapphire window in the side of the case for another view of the movement. The case is 43mm wide and comes in steel, gold, or platinum. While traditional, the movement and case do not feel boring. This is certainly a cool looking piece with a lot of inherent value and an air of quality. It isn't cheap either.The price for the watch in steel is $75,000. Steep, sure, but this watch is hand-made and they don't make very many. The price goes up to $125,000 for the platinum case. RGM explained to me that most of their clients are Americans who feel a strong connection to the American brand and enjoy the craftsmanship. Of course, not everyone who buys one of these is American. RGM further explained to me that their business is going to be more focused on watches like this moving forward. Meaning more in-house made, classic designs that focus on beauty and artisanal work.Overall, while pricey, the watch is well done. I love the style of it and it really does feels good on the wrist. The design is unique enough to be recognizable and I think RGM has a bright future ahead of them with pieces like this. Nice work all around. Next up, an automatic tourbillon. I hope.

Alain Silberstein Tourbillon Black Storm Watch

Are you ready for a watch like this? Is anyone ever really ready for a watch like this? Among his many watches, Alain Silberstein offers some tourbillon models. Less popular today, a few years ago these iconoclastic tourbillon timepieces really offered something very different. Take this Black Storm model (ref. TS511) that combines his playful French design, an interesting tourbillon movement, and urban toned camouflage.The idea is really when you get to a watch like a tourbillon reason loses a lot of meaning. Art is what makes sense and here Alain Silberstein is having fun (like he always does). Not everyone is a fan of his aesthetic - that is OK. I believe design aesthetics such as his are meant to be polarizing. In the Black Storm watch is a manually wound tourbillon based movement that I believe are exclusive to his pieces. He doesn't make the movements, but no one else has them.The tourbillon is a flying tourbillon, and done in a manner that I find interesting. The lower part of the dial is deeply recessed, allowing for a greater view of the mechanics. This lowered surface is perlage polished and contains Silberstein's three primary shape/colors logo. The rest of the dial has the time and date dial.At 40mm wide, the case isn't huge, but size is assisted with the relative thickness of the case. In steel, the side of the case matches the main dial with the black and gray camo motif. The combination of this design with Silberstein's geometric bright colored pieces is interesting. I like the dial a lot actually, but wish the minute hand here a tad bit longer.On the back of the watch you have a greater view of the movement though the sapphire caseback crystal. Here you can see some of the complex bridge work in the movement which adds to the designer feel. I believe the Tourbillon Black Storm is part of a limited edition, but am not sure. Attached to it is a black crocodile strap. Don't like the black and white camo look? The same style is offered in other colors such as red and pink if you prefer. Price isn't too bad for a tourbillon. On James List right now this Alain Silberstein Tourbillon Black Storm is available for $37,500.

Edox Class-1 Chronoffshore Limited Edition Watch

This new watch from Edox ain't half bad, however, it just might irritate Audemars Piguet with the Chrono-offshore name. I know it is supposed to be Chronoffshore but I want it to have an extra "o" so badly. Edox has been playing with their chronograph sport pieces for a while - some really hit and some really miss. This one is certainly a good looker with mostly black and silvery white mixed in with a little blue.Not the first watch Edox made in its place as the official timekeeper of Class-1 powerboat racing, this new model is clearly the best. You see how I've placed an image here of one of the Class-1 boats. These aren't for stately wind-powered yacht races, these are all engine. The new Chronoffshore watch comes in a 43mm wide PVD black steel case that is water resistant to 500 meters. We've seen this case before but it still looks good, especially with its large pushers. It is hard to understand what the bezel looks like in real-life given these images. It is black on black? Black on lighter colored black? Hard to say.The watch dial is carbon fiber with an easy to read face. Because of "Class-1" the 1 o'clock indicator is done with an Arabic number in blue. It looks neat and makes the watch feel as though it is connected to something - which it is. Always nice as applied to a limited edition. The crystal is AR coated sapphire. Inside the watch is a Siwss ETA Vajloux 7750 that Edox calls their "Edox 011." Maybe it has a custom rotor or something. The watch is attached to a rubber strap.Decent looking, this is a nice sport watch if you are looking for something all black with blue trim. That is, as opposed to something with red trim (that is so popular). The Class-1 Chronoffshore will be limited to just 250 pieces, and if you are a Class-1 fan, I bet you are really excited about it. Price is a bit up there at $4,030See Edox watches on eBay here.See Edox watches on Amazon here.

Archimede SportTaucher M Watch

Conservative sport watch brand Archimede does it again with the new SportTaucher (Sport Taucher) M watch. This diver is a rational man's friend with a sturdy German-made steel case, 300 meters of water resistance and a sapphire crystal. It doesn't aim to excite sot much as it does to simply perform - again, another Teutonic tool.The case is 41.5mm wide, done in a satin finish (very tool-like look) with a matching rotating bezel. The crown is placed at 4 o'clock as is the date dial in effort to preserve the placement of the Arabic numerals located at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. I like the rounded crown guard and feel it adds a softer look to the case. At 12mm thick, the case should feel rather reasonable on the wrist.Archimede will offer the SportTaucher M with two dial colors: Black and blue. The black version has easy to see white hands and hour markers with red trim, the blue model is trimmed in orange and has a bit of a "tropical" feel to it.In addition to the metal bracelet, the watch is also offered with a shark skin leather strap - a unique offering for this watch. Personally, I think the black dial with shark skin strap is rather attractive. To add some visual interest you'll notice that the dial has some depth to it, giving it a more attractive look. Inside is a Swiss ETA 2824 automatic movement.In addition to the Archimede SportTaucher M, Archimede still offers the SportTaucher A which offers a different bezel and white dial option. Prices for the watch start at $895 on the shark skin strap and $1,065 for the watch on the metal bracelet and can be purchased online via Archimede's website.

JC/DC Gummy Me Watch

Fashion designer JC/DC (Jean-Charles de Castelbajac) once again works with Hong Kong based watch maker O.D.M (ODM) in this interesting and whimsical watch called the "Gummy Me." Done in silicone, the watch in its entirety looks like a sort of rabbit-like creature. The eyes are two small LCD screens that tell the time (hours for one eye, minutes in the other). Coming in four colors it is strange, it is fun, and it is probably not destined to find a home on most people's wrists - but some will love it.JC/DC refers to the design as an alien rabbit - something that should be experimented on. The package itself is shaped a bit like a specimen sample. They are playing on the whimsy of the character. To me the Gummy Me rabbit looks like a cross between Bugs Bunny and that Life in Hell rabbit that Matt Groening created.The last JC/DC watch I wrote about was a Lego model that I wrote about here. This man loves toys. So why doesn't he design kids clothes? While the Gummy Me watch is totally strange I am oddly drawn to it. Not just because of the funny face that will stare at me each time I check the time, but more because of the attention I know it will get from other people. This odd colorful animal-like thing strapped to my wrist. Oh yea, it tells the time too, I remind them. The Gummy Me watch comes in black, white, blue, and red. In addition to telling the time, the little screens also show the date and have a blacklight which is activated by touching the side of the rabbit's head. They aren't too expensive at $85 each. You can get your own JC/DC online from ODM here.

Goldpfeil Vianney Halter Seven Masters Watch Available On James List

You need to be a pretty serious watch nerd to know who Vianney Halter is, but you need to be an even more serious watch nerd to know what Goldpfeil is. Goldpfeil is a failed brand that sought to create watches made and designed by star independent watch makers who are members of the AHCI. A few models were produced and among them was this one by Vianney Halter. I am not totally sure why Goldpfeil was not a commercial success but the very similar Harry Winston Opus concept did end up being a commercial success.The idea of working together to help out low-resource, high-creativity independent watch makers is sound, but doing it properly is a complex feat. While I don't know exactly what went wrong back in the early 2000's, I can guess it had to do with marketing budgets, production schedules and costs, and sheer awareness. To spend $50,000 on a watch whose brand you can barely pronounce from some quirky French guy is not exactly a model for sales success. It takes people like me (and maybe you) that will seek this stuff out on our own - for such brands to have commercial success.Watches from Goldpfeil were all part of the "Seven Masters" collection. Probably the most famous watch from the short-lived brand was this Vianney Halter Seven Masters (ref GPVH11). In a smallish rectangular case, the watch had jumping hours, an unconventional moon phase indicator, and a dial for the minutes and seconds. All Goldpfeil watches has that sort of broad arrow hand in their designs.At 40mm tall and 29mm wide, this was not a large watch. This is a very modestly sized avant garde watch - a dimensional area that is often preferred by the more conservative high-end watch crown in Europe. Though I have a feeling if Vianney designed the watch today - about 10 years later - he would have made it a bit larger. This model has a case in 18k white gold, but there might have been other materials offered. The case is polished and in the middle section done with a sort of stone-like texture.It has a few sapphire crystals around the case and is just 10.3mm thick. The design is strange at first but grows on you. This is a sure collector's item for the future and an enduring design that symbolizes not only Vianney Halter's aesthetic and watch making philosophy, but the true face of high-end independent watch making.Interestingly enough, the Vianney Halter Goldpfeil watches is considered one of his best and most easy to use movements among enthusiasts. One of the strongest points of the watch is that the movement is an automatic. While it is not possible to see here, the crown has some fascinating details, as well as the buckle on the dark green crocodile strap. If I had the cash I would certainly get one of these pieces for my collection. One of these rare Vianney Halter Goldpfeil watches is available on James List here for $35,000.

Tongue and buckle in titanium or black DVD titanium

According to some additional information, another test seems to suggest that the watch is water resistant to 5000 meters. Which is it? Doesn't matter to be honest - you'd be dead long before reaching either of those depths.The watch contains an Hublot caliber HUB1404 automatic with the time and date. Legibility is ensured by the super large hands and hour markers. Both models have lots of lume, while the titanium model is clearly going to be the one you want to use if you are actually diving. Hublot's signature stealth look is fun, but makes for a poor design when trying to read a watch in the murky depths.Still, the carbon fiber model speaks to me a lot more. I am actually not a big fan of all those black on black watches. Mr. Biver calls the look "visible invisibility." The titanium and green model looks a bit like a toy to me. I mean, it is toy. Maybe a serious toy, but still a toy. This is another watch that I call "Hollywood movie prop." Pick your fav sci-fi or action movie and I bet this watch will look appropriate on some character. The carbon fiber one is a bit more mysterious and sinister. It also has the benefit of being the only carbon fiber cases dive timepiece that I know of - and that is pretty cool. I am pretty hot on the idea of carbon fiber cases. I was very skeptical about them at first, but brands like Hublot have convinced me that they are worthy. In addition to being light and having a smooth feel to them, they are really tough and naturally absorb shock.The larger crown at 2 o'clock is for the time, while the lower one is used for the inner rotating bezel. Is the super-sized crown cap necessary? Eh, not really, but it is a fun design feature. My favorite feature of the watch are the quick release straps. See that little triangles on the lugs? Push them in and the strap releases easily. A very clever feature and I think all Hublot timepieces should have them in the future. Hublot will offer the Oceanographic 4000 with two straps. One in rubber for and one that is a mix of rubber and nylon. The rubber one is for "active duty," while the rubber and nylon one is for more casual wear purposes. Further, while the rubber and nylon one has a more traditional fold over style clasp, the all rubber strap uses an ardillion tongue buckle style strap that is more secure and useful when wearing gloves.So what is left? Hublot created a limited edition diver that should be more or less tough as nails - especially if those nails come in the form of high water pressure. The more useful of the two piece is the titanium one, but the more cool looking of the two is the carbon fiber one. How much will these big guys cost? $19,900 in titanium and $25,900 in carbon fiber. Look for the retail release close to the end of the year.Tech specs from Hublot:Reference 731.NX.1190.RX, 731.QX.1140.RXSeries Limited to 1000 pieces for the titanium versionNumbered 01/1000 to 1000/1000Limited to 500 pieces for the All Black version in black carbon fiberNumbered 01/500 to 500/500Case: “King Power” — 48 mm diameterMicorblasted satin-finished titanium or matte carbon fiberBezel Microblasted satin-finished titanium or matte carbon fiber6 black PVD H-shaped titanium screwsCrystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective treatmentLug: bezel Black composite resinLateral inserts Black composite resinCase back: microblasted satin-finished titanium, or microblasted satin-finished titanium with black PVDCrown: Titanium with black rubber insert or black PVD titanium with black rubber insertScrews: Black PVD titaniumWater resistance: Certified to 400 ATM or 4,000 metersTested to 5,000 meters according to the NIHS standardsDial: Matte blackSatin-finished appliques with green or black SuperLuminovaHands Microblasted satin-finished with green or black SuperLuminovaMovement: Mechanical with automatic winding HUB1401No. of components: 180Jewels: 23Bridges: Satin-finished, beveled & polishedScrews: Black PVDBarrel: With reinforced springEscapement: Glucydur hairspringPower Reserve: Approximately 42 hoursStraps: Available with two straps — black rubber and rubber and nylonClosing system

Some Ikepod Watches Hands

Ikepod timepieces have been around since I started getting into watches about a decade ago. An elusive brand, seeing these watches in person isn't all that common. The brand has had its ups and downs but seems to be in good hands at this time. The politics there are interesting as Marc Newson is the designer and has an incredible amount of creative control (though he doesn't involve himself with day-to-day operations at all). Basically, if he wants it made, it gets made.A good example of this is with the Hemipode, which, for its time, was a very large watch (in the 1990s) at 44mm wide. The Megapode is 47mm wide and, again, was considered massive. Today, they look just fine on the wrist. Over a decade later, Marc decided to do a 180 in his approach and built the two-sided Solaris watch that is just 30mm wide. He just does whatever he feels like doing, really.Ikepod watches feel like exactly what they are: Timepieces designed by someone who isn't strictly a watch designer but is a really good designer. Quality and craftsmanship is good, and the prices are high, but these are satisfying pieces. The Hemipode is probably their most famous watch. The case comes (came) in a variety of materials from steel, to gold, to platinum. And at 44mm wide you have an almost perfectly smooth pebble on your wrist - just how Newson wanted it. Legibility is as good as the watches are unique. Distinctive components, like the strap, ensure that the watch both looks fascinating and is comfortable. My interest, over the years, for the brand is well-founded and finds them on my wrist.The Hemipodes currently use a modified Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement. Newson wanted perfect symmetry for the dial (good man) so he removed the day of the week indicator and opted for a date dial (versus a window). The movement is further modified by removing the 12 hour counter for the chronograph and replacing it with a 24 hour GMT hand - adjusted by the pusher on the left side of the case. In the past, these pieces sometimes offered other dial styles and movements. The hands are smooth looking and legible when you read the time from the UFO on your wrist. This is high-end design, people!I don't think that Ikepod makes steel or titanium versions of the Hemipode anymore, their current catalog only lists gold and platinum models and they are spendy! Retail prices start at around $35,000 for the gold versions and go up over $50,000 for the platinum models. Not cheap, sure, but part of the reason for the cost is the sheer amount of metal in the cases. The other part of the value proposition in getting one of these is Marc Newson's work as a piece of art.The Megapode is still offered in steel and is considerably less in price due to that fact. This is Marc's aviator watch complete with a rotating slide-rule bezel. This time, the movement was flipped around for the pusher to be on the left side of the case - the idea was to make the crown for the slide-rule bezel easier to grasp. I wonder if a Marc Newson designed instruction manual on how to use slide-rule bezels comes with the Megapode watches? These very elegant pilot watches have the same awesome strap that all the round Ikepod watches have and works somewhat like a belt. It is rubber and has a nice clean clasp system that really is more clever than it looks. Very neat in appearance as well. Ikepod Megapode watches are currently offered in titanium, retailing for $17,500.The newest round-cased Ikepod offering is the Horizon collection. These simple two-handers are more about art than pure function. They look stunning in person and offer a fascinating re-imagining of the look that Movado made popular with the Horwitt Museum Face watch. The watch dial features inset, almost perforated, holes of various sizes that emphasize the look of a sphere. Looking at the dial from various angles is very much a treat. This is one of my favorite "hard to read" watch dials out there. Like all of these watches, the Ikepod bird logo (named after a type of bird in Australia) is applied on the bottom of the sapphire crystal. Prices for the Horizon watches have a wide range from about $14,000 to around $70,000. The top models being in gold with diamond studded bezels.If you haven't yet experienced Ikepod, I highly recommend you check them out - at least to know what a non-traditional watch-maker can do. While pricey, these watches are also high quality art.

Vulcain 50s President’s Watch Hands

Yup, this watch is called the "50s President's Watch." While that sounds a bit funny, let me explain. In 1953 Vulcain gave a Cricket Alarm watch to President Harry Truman. Since then they have given watches to all the US Presidents (yea, I know the issues about gifting things to the president, but there is some way around it... sorta). In honor of this tradition Vulcain created the 50s President's Watch, which has a retro design hearkening back to the originals.The design is slick and actually feels very retro in your hand. Not in a "this watch is old" kinda watch, but more like "this watch has some charmingly retro design aspects to it." The bigger size (in context) gives the watch a sort of "larger than life" feel where traditional design elements are seemingly exaggerated. I almost want to call it a retro cartoon watch, but I don't think that will convey the feel the watch gives. It is a high-quality piece with a cool movement.In the late 1940s Vulcain released their first Cricket Alarm watch movement. The mechanical caliber offered an alarm complication that was good. Good enough to wake you up. I have heard a lot of alarms complications in both quartz and mechanical watches. Most (not all) are crap. You can barely hear them, and many are a pain to use. Over the years Vulcain has refined the Cricket caliber, and it is among the best mechanical alarms on the market. Just a few years ago they released an automatic version of the Cricket. Just such a movement is contained inside of all the 50s President's Watches. It is the Vulcain Cricket Calibre V-21.The good looking movement is a larger caliber with two barrels. Once I believe is used for the alarm. Winding the crown one way winds the barrel for the time and winding it the other way winds the alarm barrel. The alarm is set with the crown and activated with the pusher above the crown. The dial has a dedicated alarm hand. The alarm is loud and sounds like a crazy mechanical toy going off. It lasts for a full 20 seconds which is longer than it sounds.Apparently designing the Cricket caliber to be an automatic was a challenge. I believe that has a lot to do with the alarm function, but Vulcain did it very successfully. One things about the movement that I don't quite understand is its relative slow rate of 18,000 bph. It has a power reserve of 42 hours.The 50s President's Watch is 42mm wide but feels larger. It comes with a steel or 18k rose gold case and there are currently five models. I love the retro looking domed dials and sunburst polished faces. For a traditional styled watch this piece is still quite masculine. The hands and applied hour markers are strong looking and the neat integration between the alligator strap and the case is appreciated. There is an additional sense of strength in the texture engraved into the side of the crown. Like an old acrylic crystal, the sapphire is domed. To match the style of the Vulcain "V" logo, there is a metal section through the sapphire display caseback of the same shape.Water resistance for the case is 50 meters. Acceptable in a watch like this as the alarm noise actually needs to travel from the movement through the case. Trust me, water resistance and watches that are meant to emit sound do not play well together for the most part. I am quite impressed with how Vulcain mixes these two needs.The down side to mechanical alarms are two-fold. First, you need to wind them back up each time the alarm goes off. Second, you cannot set them precisely to the minute. As you can see, you more or less try to line the hand up as close as possible to when you wan it to go off, but it isn't perfect. Sadly... so sadly, there no snooze function. However for most little daily things you need reminders for, alarms like this work just fine and Vulcain makes among the best of them. Price for the steel models is 8,370 Swiss Francs while the 18k rose gold pieces are 22,680 Swiss Francs.

Omega Seamaster 1948 Co-Axial Chronometer Watch

Driving in London is bad enough, but during the 2012 Summer Olympics it is going to be even worse. Omega will be there. Omega is always there. I hope they have a few private helicopters for the event (or hotels within walking distance of ALL the events). As the long-time official timer of the Olympics, Omega also gets to release special watch models each two years for the games. These Omega Olympics watches are often fantastic, and for 2012 Olympics they have devised a retro piece.Most Omega Olympics themed watches are based on their modern collection but this is a vintage-themed model. It is based on classic designs from the late 1940s. Specifically 1948 - which is apparently the last year London held the summer Olympics. According to Omega is it also the debut year of the Seamaster watch. What a coincidence!I have a hunch that there is going to be yet another watch for the 2012 Olympics that Omega will release closer to the games. The release of this Omega Seamaster 1948 Co-Axial Chronometer just seems early - although it fits the bill well for a proper limited edition model. Actually to be specific, the watch was debuted exactly one year before the Olympic games are sent to begin in the summer of 2012.Looking at the original watch you can see how similar the design is and where Omega drew influence for this recreation model. The new piece will be limited to 1,948 pieces - a number that should surprise nobody. The case is 39mm wide in steel with an 18k yellow gold caseback. The case has a sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 120 meters. The caseback has the London 2012 Olympics logo done in relief. The case is very old-timey sport with an easy to read dial and lovely detailing all over the face. You know what really surprises me? Just how faithful Omega has been to the Original dial. Just look at the 2011 Seamaster Planet Ocean watch and tell me just how much of the original DNA is in it? A lot actually.This new limited edition Omega Seamaster 1948 Co-Axial Chronometer watch is larger than the original with an automatic Co-Axial movement. It has also been COSC Chronometer certified, using the in-house made caliber 2022 automatic movement. Aside from the 18k gold caseback, Omega adds additional gold on the dial. The applied Omega logo and hour indicators are all done in 18k white gold. The result is very subdued and appealing, just what many retro-watch lovers are looking for.Omega matches the finely conservative watch to a black alligator strap. The combination of history, style, and Olympics fandom will help this be a very popular limited edition for Omega in honor of the upcoming games. Price is said to be relatively reasonable at $6,800.

Antoine Martin Perpetual Calendar Watch

In March of this year I debuted to you Martin Braun's new brand called Antoine Martin. Since then I have had the opportunity to meet with Martin and the brand's CEO Bruno Jufer to look at the new pieces simply called the "Perpetual Calendar." I first advised them to come up with a unique name for the watches. Oh, and for more details and tech specs on the watch, click that link above.Braun's talent as a match maker has always impressed me, and the Calibre AM 39.001 - the new brands' first movement - is as impressive as I anticipated it to be. The collection is an interesting design mixture between sporty and stately. There is an architected boldness to it that has been really thought-out. I quite like the case, and in its large 46mm wide size case, feels impressive and important. It really helps that the large sized movement fits nicely in the case and isn't too small. Braun's movement design looks like a pocket watch caliber from the future.The movement has a lot of neat features and I appreciate its bridge design. As I discussed before, in the movement are some fascinating technical innovations to make the movement more accurate as well as reliable. Those little touches make a Martin Braun movement - a Martin Braun movement. The calibre IS manually wound, but does feature a long 6 day power reserve with rear-mounted power reserve indicator... I can live with that.Functionally the watch has the time an easy to digest perpetual calendar that uses mostly windows versus dials. The different watch dials are all kept alive by the large hands. Seriously, when you see what large hands do for a design in this instance, why would anyone - ever - make a dial with small, shy hands? Thank you Martin, thank you...I met with Martin and Bruno to discuss their new brand and what was to be done. The energy between them is clear and I like the passion they have for what they are doing. Martin is still upset over the whole Franck Muller group thing, and Bruno is youthful in his enthusiasm - clearly the salesman of the two. Martin, being the guy that he is, clearly has some additional ideas for the brand moving forward. He will continue to play with elaborate designs and complications - as long as the market supports it.The Perpetual Calendar pieces are sort of trendy in a non-obvious way. Maybe that is due to the color schemes the team initially came up with. Not that the "black on black" model isn't cool, but it isn't exactly unique. There seems to be two brands in one here. A powerfully designed watch for guys who wanna be the guys who own and train Roman gladiators, and then a watch for the loupe owning closet nerd that likes to hide away and inspect some nice polished gears on when feeling so... mechanically inclined.I do respect Antoine Martin and what they are doing. Personally I am more intrigued by the movement versus the watch. Though I think the watch, with a few little tweaks could be a serious force to be reckoned with. Some of this is possible, some is more difficult. For example, I previously (in the last article) discussed moving some of the dials around to make the dial more symmetrical. Sure, that makes sense but some of the dials are placed where they are given constraints in the movement design. Overall, with a strong movement, solid pedigree, and enthusiastic spirit, I do hope to see the brand blossom and mature in the years to come.

Basically it frames a small section of the night sky

Sidereal time is displayed in a 24 hour format as is known as the true earth time in terms of a rotational standpoint - different that the standard time and solar time. These days sidereal time is used by astronomers, and people who buy watches that contain this complication. Like an equation of time indicator - this complication is more emotional than useful to the majority of people.Things get a lot more complex on the back of the watch where the astronomical data is displayed. Here you will also find one of the world's most diminutive perpetual calendar displays. The large astrological chart is based on a specific sky location the customer must choose. . IWC claims that the chart can display the actual position of about 500 - 1000 stars. The chart moves to represent how the view of the sky changes from the perspective of someone standing on earth. The chart and hands around the chart further indicator sunset/sunrise data, sidereal time, solar time, and day/night indicator. It is all very complex, tiny, and awesome.Around the periphery of the star chart is the perpetual calendar. See it now at the top? This perpetual calendar is a bit different than you might be used to as it only displays the leap year indicator and a count of what number day it is in the year (1 - 365). I think that is all pretty cool - but of course all of this info is only viewable when you take the watch off. No doubt that the calibre 94900 is extremely impressive on all accords.If you are familiar with other complicated IWC watches built on the Portuguese platform you'll instantly recognize this watch. The case is 46mm wide by 17.5mm thick. You can get it in 18k white or red gold, and also in platinum. If you want something special, IWC will likely do that as well given that each piece is made to order. In terms of customization, IWC claims that there are over 200 combinations possible. This include case materials, polishes, straps, and dials. Don't forget that you'll be asked to choose what part of the sky you want on the back of the watch. Oh, and I love this statement (so Swiss), "IWC is only too pleased to honor special requests in the interests of exclusivity."As a new brand marquee and super-complex watch for the high-end market the IWC Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia is a satisfying creation. IWC has a micro-site with details and a nice presentation on it here. This watch will help boost brand confidence and appeal in developing markets that are just starting to really learn about the brand. While I like this watch a lot, I know it is a separate creature so it does not really change the way I feel about other IWC pieces (which I, for the most part, already like anyways). Ordering an IWC Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia will set you back about 750,000 Swiss Francs - and if you want one in the next few years you better put in your order soon.Tech Specs from IWC:Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia Watch Ref. 5041FeaturesMechanical movement, new balance with two adjustment cams and two adjustment weights, Breguet spring, two barrels, constant power tourbillonDial side displays 24-hour display (sidereal time), sidereal time and solar time can be set separately, power reserve displayRear side displays Customized celestial chart and horizon, sunrise and sunset display, sidereal time and solar time, day, night and dusk display under celestial chart, perpetual calendar with display showing leap years and number of dayMovementCalibre 94900Frequency 18,000 A/ h / 2.5 HzJewels 56Power reserve 4 days (96 h)Winding hand-woundWatchMaterials Case material as specified by customer (e.g. platinum or red gold)Strap as specified by customer with IWC folding claspGlass Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sidesBack see-through sapphire-glass backWater-resistant 3 barDiameter 46 mmHeight 17.5 mm

Citizen Satellite Eco-Drive Watch

Atomic clock radio signal syncing watches are so last year. Citizen just decimated the coolness factor of those watches with the Satellite Eco-Drive watch. This timepiece isn't just a concept, but will actually be produced as a limited edition later this year - and may have its tech show up in later watches. In a nutshell, the watch keeps its time super accurate from syncing with the navigational satellites that orbit Earth as opposed to syncing with radio signals that are broadcasted from local atomic clocks.Atomic clocks lose one second of time every 100,000 years or something like that. Maybe even longer. The point is that you'll be long dead before they are off by even a fraction of a second. Your standard quartz watch movement is accurate to within about 15 seconds a month. Syncing to an atomic clock is a good idea, and has traditionally been done in watches that do this by relying on radio signals that atomic clocks emit. However, there aren't atomic clocks all over the world, and neither are there such signals. If you live in the US, much of Europe, China, and Japan you can get atomic clock radio signals, everywhere else you are screwed. Even if you are in range the system to capture the signal and sync with it is quirky at best. I have a few atomic clock radio signal syncing clocks and am really never sure if they are getting signal or not. Navigational satellites that orbit the Earth do however get the signal.What Citizen has done with the new Satellite Eco-Drive watch is create a system that receives signals not from radio towers but from the satellites. The main advantage here is that now your watch can be hyper accurate anywhere on the planet - not just regions where the radio signals are present. The watch also has an Eco-Drive quartz movement that receives power from the sun. Your "stranded on a deserted island" choice of watch just got upgraded.The only drawback is that the watch cannot receive a signal indoors. Think of it like a GPS unit. To receive a signal from the satellite it needs a clear line of site. The watch can receive information from one of 24 navigational satellites the are going around the earth. These satellites bounce the atomic clock information to each other so that are each all accurate. In addition to the time, the signal also has the calendar information. What amazes me the most is that the watch has enough power to do all this.Citizen gave the watch a spacey conceptual look to go with the Satellite theme. The dial is open and is mixed with black, white, and green colors. The flange ring is a green coil, and Citizen admits that the design is meant to make people think of satellites and spaceship engines. Not stopping there Citizen went so far as to partner with makers of the upcoming Appleseed movie sequel "Appleseed 13." It is actually the third move in the franchise... The watch in animated form will be in the movie.Not sure about the case size, but it is nice and large. The case will be in steel and ceramic (very cool). The crystal is also sapphire while the case is water resistant to 100 meters. Inside the watch is a Citizen Eco-Drive calibre H990 quartz movement that offers the time, satellite syncing all over the world, a perpetual calendar, second timezone, and world time. The watch will be limited and in the $3,000 price range I believe. Finals specs on price and production amounts will come later when the watch is due for release in the Fall of 2011. Very cool and I love to see the revolutionary technology from Citizen.

Chopard L.U.C XPS Watch

At the 2011 Oscars, best actor Colin Firth was wearing a Chopard L.U.C XPS watch - could you ask for a classier tuxedo watch? The L.U.C XPS of this type first came out in 2009, and if it were not for the "Chopard" name, I would think it was a Dell computer. This is also one of Chopard's answers to the thin elegant watch question. The L.U.C XPS has a Chopard L.U.C 12.96 automatic movement and is still just 7.13mm thick.While Chopard offers the watch in 18k rose or white gold, it is really the white gold version with the black dial that you want. The thin bezel makes the 39.50mm wide case feel larger than it is, and the alligator strap adds a bit of glossy luxury on the wrist. Chopard designed the dial to be minimalistic but highly functional. It is like a dressy version of what Panerai design is going for. One version of the dial has the time with subsidiary seconds dial using dauphine hands, matched to a mixture of baton hour markers with stylized Roman numeral hour markers. Dauphine hands always look stellar on minimalist dials.Step it up a bit for the diamond version of the watch -?? one of the most tasteful diamond watches for people who don't like diamond watches. For the L.U.C XPS Diamonds Chopard uses baguette-cut stones for the hour markers and around the bezel. It is a watch with the good taste of a minimalist design with the higher-status look of diamonds without all the gaudiness.Seen through the sapphire crystal caseback, the Chopard L.U.C 12.96 automatic movement has twin barrels with 65 hours of power reserve and of course is nicely decorated. The rotor is in solid 22k gold and is a micro-rotor. It is also COSC Chronometer certified which isn't too common in watches of this type. Chopard really did a good job mixing classical elegance with a timeless looks in this watch. I think it is one of the best in it genre. Prices for these pieces ranges a bit - retailing at about $13,500 of the standard gold version and up to around $35,000 for the diamond version. See one of these Chopard L.U.C XPS Diamond watches available on James List here.

Tissot Seastar 1000 Watches Hands On

Everyone has been eagerly anticipating the new Seastar 1000 watch from Tissot this year. It has good looks and a large 48mm wide that is big, but not overpowering due to the shorter lugs. For those highly intimidated by the size, there is also a smaller three-hand version that is 42mm wide. The color selection is interesting, and these could be the Tissot watches to own this year.A retro looking thin bezel means that the dials look massive. You can really appreciate the size of the watch based on how the chronograph subdials are clustered in the center due to the size of the ETA C0.211 automatic movement. I first discussed the new Tissot Seastar 1000 watches here. The placement of the chronograph dials does help leave much of the dial open and easy to read. The hands are nicely doe and I like the mixture of retro and modern elements throughout the design of the watch.The steel case has a complex design on it, and includes an automatic helium release valve on the side of it. Gotta love Tissot for putting a large "T" as the counterweight on the chronograph seconds hand. The dial colors include black and blue, blue and white, and black and orange. My favorite goes back and forth between the black and blue and black and orange.Style-wise Tissot did a nice job on the collection - vastly taking it away from the look of the previous model. The Seastar 1000 feels more like an instrument now, and certainly more fun. At 300 meters water resistant, I suggest you take a plunge with one. They come on branded rubber straps as well as steel metal bracelets. In this case I think I prefer the rubber strap given the design of the watch. Price for the chronograph will be about $1000, while the smaller three-hand model will be at least $200 cheaper (if not more). I believe the three-hand automatic has an ETA 2824 inside of it. Look for the new Tissot Seastar 1000 watches soon.

Tutima Watches Academy Of Aviation Safety Sean

Seems as though a few times a week I am informed about a new pilot watch. Brands like to talk about how this feature helps pilots with this, and how aviators love that. Apparently someone uses a slide-rule bezel, and being able to see 12 timezones at once is useful. Without knowing what people who fly actually use and need, it is hard for me to discuss these pieces on a level above being a watch nerd. It is for that reason that I am happy to have finally got a taste for flight, and what aviator watches are trying to do, and trying to emulate.I am far from a pilot, but I did get a chance to finally do something in the sky. Tutima graciously invited me to check out their airfield near Salinas California. I call it the "secret Tutima air base" because until now I'd never heard of it - and neither would anyone else who didn't happen to be in King City or was in the business of flying.The place isn't just a small airport, but home of a very special school called the Tutima Academy of Aviation Safety with Sean D. Tucker. The school is a sort of race car safety driving course for seasoned pilots. Sean Tucker and his team are stunt pilots, flying in major airshows around the country. What they offer pilots is how to take skills learned when doing stunt flying and apply them to how to deal with problematic situations in the air. The academy serves a range of pilot types, including those who fly some very important types of aircraft.Looking through the course catalog, you can take things called, Pilot Confidence Training, Aerobatic Proficiency Training, and Formation Flight Training. These guys make it look easy, but it isn't. Tutima's link to all this (as opposed to being headquartered a world away in Glashutte Germany) is that they have been continuously making pilot instruments since (I believe) the 1920s. Tutima wanted to bring myself and a few other watch writers into their world, so they strapped a parachute on me, put me in a Pitts bi-plane, flew me to 4000 feet and then just gave me control of the stick. Wait, what happened to the training course?For those of you who fly or have flown I don't need to tell you what you already know. For me this was a really exhilarating first experience, and I have to say that I was too overcome with glee and g-forces to ever glance at the Tutima on my wrist. Though for less adrenaline filled flying I can see where a watch come in useful in a few ways. First, flying is risky and on-board instruments can fail. Any backs up you have are helpful. Sometimes pilots uses chronographs just to time how much fuel they have. If you are flying to different timezones, having a GMT or multi-timezone watch is a must. Legibility is also crucial as you don't want to be looking away for too long.What I thought was cool, is that Tutima has some neat limited edition watches with the Academy's logo on them that are only available there. They are available to students of the academy to buy. The whole team wears Tutima, and I mean they really wear them. These aren't just watches they put on for show.One thing that really interested me was being in a cockpit and finally really realizing where legions of brand designers are getting their inspiration. You can see watches in just about ever dial and gauge. I am going to start crediting instrument makers a lot more now when seeing nice "tool watches."The Tutima Academy men and women are really fantastic people. If you ever are interested in these types of course you'll be treated very well. Generous and genuine, these true professionals go back and forth from teaching people who to fly better, to going about and participating in airshows. When it comes down to it they are entertainers, wowing audiences with tight rolls and and close formations. The start of the show is Sean D. Tucker. A veteran pilot who is one of the most impressive (and energetic) people I've ever met. There is a true feeling of validation when the people who do extraordinary things are themselves extraordinary. And I am not just saying that because he let me fly a place without having to go through that whole... pilot's license thing.A few years ago I saw Sean for the first time - though I didn't know it. He was over San Francisco during an airshow in Fleet Week. He flies for Team Oracle in his bright red custom bi-plane doing pretty amazing stuff. What I didn't realize is how much training it takes just to keep your body used to the amazingly rough forces of wild aerobatic flight. Not just anyone can do this, but this guy makes it look easy. You know what else really impressed me? How well the academy keeps their planes. They all look like they came out of the factory two days ago.Born to please the public, Sean D. Tucker is a legend and gentleman. You are in good hands with this guy. Tutima and Tucker have been working together since 1996, and the relationship seems to have really blossomed. It is also good to know that Tutima participates in these types of activities in the US - thanks to the Tutima USA team. While fashion watches are a-plenty, it is good to know that purist brands like Tutima are out there offering solid instruments for professional pilots, divers, drivers, or just those who like to dream.

Antoine Preziuso Power Inside Unlimited Watch

There is nothing really innovative about this watch aside from the new convoluted way it talks about having a power reserve indicator on the dial. High-end brand Antoine Preziuso makes some interesting stuff, but I can never pronounce the "Preziuso" part of it without sounding like I have something between a speech impediment and a learning disability. It comes out sounding like my tongue spontaneously went numb while trying to speak - another "sorry I am American" moment I guess. This new "Power Inside Unlimited" model is neat looking, but is much more for show than it is for great mechanical appreciation.Speaking of show, "Power Inside" really reminds me of what He-Man used to say, "I have the power!" And so do you. Then something about the "power of Grayskull..." The point of this Antoine Preziuso Power Inside Unlimited watch is to have a damn large power reserve indicator in order to have the wearer always remember that YOU, the dude wearing the watch, have the power inside you to keep the watch going. Well duh.... Such powerfully powerful power... what do to with it all? I suggest raising your hands above your hear high and making a few masculine grunts while screaming about the vigor of your kinetic energy. Let He-Man be your inspiration. If you have a cool inter-galactic sword to do that with... then all the better.The watch is He-Man sized (and styled) at 48mm wide in steel with a complex looking case with screws in the sides all over it. Antoine Preziuso is so douchey with how they talk about this. Something about how the 13 screws in the case give it "perfect water resistance." I didn't think that 50 meters of water resistance was considered "perfect." The case is 13mm thick - which isn't too bad given the size. On the dial you have really thick hands and a nice looking face that feels like a good compliment to this power-hungry mechanism. Remember, the movement feeds off on your precious energy. Does this not disturb you? To have some strange mechanical parasite relying on your movements?!A high level of machine engraving on the dial give it a nice look. I like all the Geneva stripes on it, and the detail done in the power reserve indicator. The scale goes from "Down" (empty) to "Fine" (full). "Antoine Preziuso watch are you feeling OK?" "Meh, I am fine...." Looks like the movement has a power reserve of about 100 hours.Not really sure what is going on inside of the watch. Antoine Preziuso himself is an accomplished watch maker, but I do not know if this watch has an in-house made movement or not. Just says that it is powered by an automatic calibre APG 297 movement. The strap on the watch is neat being a combination of carbon fiber and crocodile - now that is something I haven't seen before. Amusing all around and fun for a bit, wear this watch and you can be the master of your wrist's universe. You have the friggin' power, don't forget that.

Corum Admiral's Cup Challenger 44 Chrono Rubber Limited Edition Watches

I think Corum hit on a great idea with these limited edition Admiral's Cup Challenger 44 watches. The basic idea is simple, to create bold, friendly looking versions of the Admiral's Cup watch, just do it in as much brightly colored rubber as you can. These watches are each two toned and very enjoyable to wear. The steel cases are rubber coated, the strap is rubber, and the bezel is in rubber. Another key element in the design is that they are just two tones with really good contrast. It is like a toy-version of a high-end watch... but certainly not a toy.The watches are available as limited edition pieces. If all goes well, Corum plans on making new colors available each year. For 2011 the available limited edition pieces are in red, blue, and white. Little nod to the US flag? Maybe! Each of the watches will be limited to just 100 pieces.The watch case is mostly rubber (obviously metal underneath) and 44mm wide. The crown and crown guard are coated in vulcanized rubber. The most non-slip watch ever! The style of the watch really fits the twelve-sided Admiral's Cup case well. The dials are typical Admiral's Cup, and as legible and eye-pleasing as ever. I like that Corum resisted the urge to include an additional color on the dial.Inside the watch is a corum COSC Chronometer certified CO753 automatic chronograph movement. You can see it through the display caseback with a matching colored automatic rotor - that was a nice touch. My favorite piece is the red one. Obviously this is Corum playing around with the Admiral's Cup line which is their now iconic sport watch. You can see these as fashion pieces, but I see them more as just playful watches. When you don't want to be super serious about luxury. The fact that they are limited editions means that Corum doesn't want to go overboard with the concept, but wants to give buyers who find these appealing a chance to skew their typical perception of the Admiral's Cup timepiece. Price for each is $8,150.

Oris BC3 Air Racing GMT Limited Edition Watch

The GMT version of the updated Oris BC3 comes as a limited edition done for the Oris Big Crown Sky Racing team. Why does "Big Crown" need to be in that term? I know that Big Crown is a line if watches from Oris, but does that mean there are other Oris Sky Racing teams? Anyhow - that BC3 Air Racing Limited Edition watch comes in the same 42mm wide case as the BC3, but here in titanium. It also has a special red ring about the crown to go with the GMT hand.In the Oris promo video you can see these guys flying around at the Reno Air Show. I like all the air racing teams that various brands sponsor. I can name at least half a dozen brands that have them - most all are very talented, skilled, and impressive. The BC3 collection is just one collection of aviator Oris watches. They also have some vintage inspired ones, but the BC3 is a functionalist, minimalist's dream. The design is one that isn't immediately exciting, but it really does grow on you - especially because it is so comfortable and legible.The addition of the GMT complication is thanks to use of a Swiss ETA 2893-2 automatic movement (don't forget that Oris uses their custom red rotors). This is one of the more discreet implementations of a GMT hand as it does not extend to the end of the dial. Though the hand is in red and does have a dedicated 24 hour scale. The face really is supremely readable.On the back of the watch is an engraving of a Oris Sky Racing Team plane. The collection is limited to 1,000 pieces (not sure of price right now). Oris offers the BC3 Air Racing watch on a titanium bracelet or a rubber strap. I really like this limited edition GMT model, and think that it makes a pleasing addition to the standard BC3 watch collection.

Breguet Classique 5717 Hora Mundi Watch

One of the most useful mechanical complications I saw at Baselworld 2011 was the time switching mechanism on the new Breguet Classique 5717 Hora Mundi watch. Aside from having a very clever feature for travelers, the Hora Mundi mixes contemporary looks with Breguet classicism. That sounds like a bit of a irony, but they seemed to pull it off.The watch is large for Breguet Classique pieces at 44mm wide and over 13mm thick. The Classique style case looks nice in the size, but I think the design may have benefited from curved lugs in these dimensions. Of course the coined edge is always nice. The case is available in either 18k red gold or 950 platinum. There are also two dial versions. See the map on this dial? It is of Asia and the surrounding area. The two other dials have either North America or Europe. The ocean is done with a sweetly textured lapis lazuli, and the polished land region is cut with very high precision. Around the dial is a typical Breguet Roman numeral hour indicator ring, with two large pomme blued-steel style plications on the watch include the time, date, moon phase indicator, and the dual time mechanism. The date uses one of those expanded date windows that are good for dial balance, but bad for legibility. So Breguet did something to improve on the date window (that is located under 12 o'clock). There is circle-shaped hand in the open window that goes over the correct date. This should help things a lot, see what I mean?The moon phase complication is self-explanatory, but the dual time function requires a bit of explanation. When it is set up properly, it is very hands. What you do is press the pusher at 8 o'clock and the time switches instantly between two time zones. The reference city for that time zone is displayed in the open area over 6 o'clock. The watch doesn't just change the time, but also keeps track of AM/PM and changes the date when appropriate - pretty nifty right?Essentially what the watch is doing is keeping track of two times as one. There is a switch in the movement that changes which one is being displayed. Adjusting the times isn't too hard, and the ability to juxtapose a local and reference time on the fly is really handy. It cleans up the dial and makes the Hora Muni a travel watch when you want it to be, and a daily wearer when you don't. I don't know too many watches that can claim that.Inside the ref. 5717 Hora Mundi is the brand new Breguet caliber 77F0 automatic movement. It has a silicon hairspring and escapement, and is based on the Breguet caliber 777. The 77F0 has about 55 hours of power reserve. I like how the automatic movement has guilloche machine engraving on it for decoration. The piece is overall very pretty, and comes in a total of six versions. With the useful features, attractive design, and Breuget pedigree the ref 5717 Hora Mundi is one of best new Breguet watches for 2011 - and will be a desired piece by collectors and newbies to the brand for a few years to come.

Chopard Gran Turismo XL Racing In Pink Watch

I put this question before you now: Can a man wear a pink watch and retain his masculinity? I made fun of the first guy I saw wearing a "salmon" colored shirt. But, today, it isn't that uncommon. Worn properly, and in the right style, pink isn't always out-of-place. So I wonder, has the time come when a man can get away with wearing a pink watch?When I write about men's watches in white people always fight about whether they would wear them. While one guy can easily pull off a white watch, it definitely isn't for everyone. I expect that even fewer men would be wiling to try it with something pink. Here is what I think: If you take the right type of fairly masculine watch and make it pink, at least a few guys will be able to pull it off. Which brings me to this new-for-2011 limited edition piece from Chopard.Apparently the wife of Chopard's CEO wanted this to happen. It is a limited edition of 1000 piece pink version of the Chopard Mille Miglia Gran Turismo XL watch. Named "Racing in Pink," it is otherwise identical to the standard black-dialed version of this 44mm wide steel watch. Design is anything but feminine and I was brave enough to strap it to my wrist.Even the tire tread leather strap is in pink. Actually, I am not gonna call it pink anymore. How about bubble gum? See, that sounds childish, but not nearly as girly. Actually, the strap sort of looks to be made of bubble gum (even though it is scented like vanilla). Women wear men's watches all the time. They steal our names and our t-shirts. So the least we can do is?? wear a pink watch? Or maybe not. I still haven't decided yet but I have a feeling a few of you already have.It would be interesting as a test. To wear the watch - in its otherwise masculine glory - out and about to see what people would say. I think most of you would agree that this is, by all other accounts, a watch make for dudes. However, I am not so sure that is completely the case with regards to the version with diamonds on the bezel. Let's leave that one for the ladies, please.

Tutima Glashutte Hommage Minute Repeater Watch

The big news is that Tutima just opened up their own movement manufacture they call the Glashutte Factory. To celebrate this they have released the first factory watch. It is the Tutima Glashutte Homage that is not only their first in-house movement, but also a minute repeater. According to Tutima (which is located in Glashutte), it is the only minute repeater watch that has been made and also developed in Glashutte.At first I wasn't of Tutima's claim.?? Glashutte Original and A. Lange & Sohne are also located in Glashutte Germany, and should have minute repeaters of their own right? Turns out that they don't. I would have guess that by now the two high-end brands would have a minute repeater or two under their belt, but that isn't the case. A. Lange & Sohne has long since been rumored to be working on one, but it hasn't come out yet. So Tutima now has the credit of the first Glashutte minute repeater watch.The Tutima Glashutte Hommage watch is a classic looking timepieces with a very Germanic movement. It will be offered with three dial styles at least. This includes an open dial with a view into the movement as well as a more traditional style "closed" dial. The brand's aviator watch spirit is retained in the pilot watch style crown to wind and adjust the manually wound movement.Not a lot of details yet (see more details below) but the watch is larger in size and will likely be offered in an 18k rose or white gold case. This is also likely to be the highest end Tutima watch ever. Tutima is known for meticulous adjustment of the ETA movements they use, so when it comes to their own movements, I am sure that the attention to detail will be just as high. As is common for Glashutte watches, the balance cock on the movement over the escapement has been engraved.Really great to see Tutima take things to the next level with their own movement manufacture as well as a minute repeater. This stuff have been in the works for years now, and Tutima is likely very relieved to finally be able and talk about it. Price for this limited edition watch is 169,000 euros in 18k gold and 179,000 in platinum. See more details below.Technical details from Tutima:Movement- Movement: Mechanical with hand winding- Diameter: 32 mm- Height: 7.2 mm- Jewels: 42, three of which are set in screw-mounted gold chatons- Escapement: Screw balance with 14 gold weighted screws and 4 regulating screws in slotted, threaded holes; free-sprung Breguet hairspring, pallet lever with domed pallets- Balance frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hertz)- Power reserve: 72 hoursSpecial features: Gold-plated, matte flat parts; Glashütte three-quarter plate; hand-engraved balance cock with relief engraving; winding wheels with click and sunburst polishing, all 550 movement parts hand-finished, all additional parts for the minute repeater bear a Glashütte tin-polished mirror surface.Functions: Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds, hour, quarter hour and minute repeater on two gongs spaced by a third and secured to the watch case for optimal sound quality.Case: Rose gold or platinum, ?? 43 mm, height 13.4 mm; anti-reflective coating on both sides of the sapphire crystal; case back with Tutima logo and sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.Dial: Solid gold, finely silver-plated (for the platinum and five of the rose gold versions reduced to a narrow ring around the perimeter); handcrafted hands in gold or blued steel.Band: Alligator skin, buckle in rose gold or platinum.Price: In rose gold, limited edition of 20 pieces, 5 versions with a narrow ring around the perimeter instead of a full dial (a?? 168,000). In platinum, limited to 5 pieces (a?? 179,000).

Swisstek Jet-Setter Limited Edition Watch Giveaway

From a Dubai native comes Swisstek - an avant garde collection of watches for men and women. In the Middle East timepieces like this are quite popular - with geometric angles and bright colors. This ref. SK18012G watch is 44mm wide in steel (there is a gold version). Inside the watch is a Swiss quartz movement (ISA 8137) with the time, alarm, day, date, GMT hand, and and power reserve indicator for the battery. Swisstek has further limited this watch to just 100 pieces. Price retails at $575. Follow the instructions and comment below for a chance to win one for yourself.To Enter You Must: 1. Comment on this post below before the giveaway is over with your valid e-mail address where required. In the body of your comment mention a perfect combo of three complications you'd like to see on a watch dial. 2. Be a pal. If possible, Facebook friend/fan all or any of the following:Friend me on Facebook Like on FacebookLike Swisstek Watches on FacebookWant articles automatically sent to you via e-mail? Sign up here:3. Wait until the giveaway is over on June 30st, 2011 for the winner to be chosen at random.A couple of basic rules. You can only enter once. You must comment with a valid e-mail address where you can be reached. Your comment must be confirmed and approved. You must complete the objectives to be considered. You are responsible for providing your contact shipping information if you are chosen. Shipping restrictions to non US entrants may apply based on sponsor's policies. Giveaway watch selection based on sponsor's inventory and watch availability. All comments made after the end of the giveaway period will not be considered. For the full terms and conditions, please click here.Good luck, and thanks to Swisstek the sponsor of this Jet-Setter watch giveaway here!

LUM-TEC 500M Dive Watch Review

US-based LUM-TEC's first dive watch is the 500M. I've written about it before but now have the chance to offer a full hands-on review. When LUM-TEC wanted to make a dive watch - they knew the expectations would be high. Going along with the futuristic and modern theme of the brand, the goal was likely to come up with something visually fascinating, highly legible, durable, and of course affordable. Fans of the brand were very excited when it was released, and now a bit later, the design still looks good. In order to present the watch as nicely as possible, I had professional photographer and friend-of Beau Hudspeth take some pictures of the model I had, the 500M-3. He previously shot another LUM-TEC watch (the B15 here). I like how he can take images of a real watch and make it look like a fancy 3D computer?? graphic - that is the same watch that is on my wrist. The 500M-3 is a real looker. LUM-TEC gave the watch a sharp, sculpted look that feels modern and functional. The case is high and 44mm wide in steel. This version is PVD black titanium carbide coated with all orange indicators and hands.At 18.5mm thick with this design, saying the 500M is a bold watch is a bit of an understatement. It actually wears snugly, and is legible, but this is a "look at me watch" all the way. I envision some very loud celeb chef on the Food Network wearing one of these. There are two elements about the watch that I think will change with future versions if LUM-TEC extends this line as I think they will. First is the crystal. The watch has a very dramatically curved AR coated sapphire crystal. The extreme curve makes the dial look like a bubble, and there is a lot of purple (from the AR coating) reflections on it at all times. While the hour indicators and hands are large enough to see with much easy, there is a lack of "clarity" that I think LUM-TEC can improve on later. Still a good look however. This model has a Seiko Instruments caliber NH15 automatic movement with hand-winding. By all accounts decent movement, but I think that future models will have demand for Swiss movements - just call it a guess.Some people complain that the custom rubber strap included with the 500M is a bit thin. It helps the watch be comfortable as the strap wraps easily. Some people however prefer a thicker strap - for those people there are plenty of straps to get. These are 24mm wide. Aside from these minor complains there is a lot to like about the watch. The design is cool, with exaggerated features and an impossible to miss dial. For this version LUM-TEC makes use of their excellent in-house MDV lume in orange. The lume is very richly applied in the dial and hands (and bezel). The thick bezel and crown complete that "over-the-top" look the design is going for.Water resistant to 500 meters, the case is all matte finished in PVD, but polished for the non PVD coated versions. Currently there are three version of the 500M (500M-1, 500M-2, and the 500M-3. This model is the priciest thus far, but is the only PVD coated model. I really love this timepiece and think that if you like the aesthetic of it, it can make a good addition to a lonely under or above-water wrist. Price is $825 and can be purchased online direct from LUM-TEC.Thanks to LUM-TEC for the review unit. Opinions are 100% independent.

Romain Jerome Space Invaders Watches

The best part of these timepieces is easily the box. I wasn't allowed to take pictures, but Romain Jerome showed me a sneak preview of the Space Invaders watches back in March. The idea is to recall some of the fun and playfulness, as well as the novelty of the late 1970s video game. The box is actually a light box and you place the watch inside of it. Actually the watch is already placed inside of it and there are no doors, just a peep hole. If you want to remove the watch - consider it a fun challenge (like the game). Inside the box is a black light, then when lit illuminates the lume on the dial of the Space Invader watches. It is cool and fun, and perhaps better with LSD.For me, the funnest part of the Space Invader watch story is process of Romain Jerome getting the licensing for the product from Taito in Japan. No one has ever made a high-end watch involving a video game before (I've joked about it, but this is the first legit one). By the way, I first talked about these watches here when discussing RJ's relationship with Taito.I don't know all the details, but to sum it up, there was quite a confusion as to what type of watch was going to be made. The idea of such a high-end watch licensing the Space Invaders name was apparently difficult to grasp. I believe it took RJ showing them examples for the big guys at Taito to get it. And what about if the watch actually played the game...?Set in the Moon Invader case, the Space Invaders watch will come in two styles, with a really interesting dial. It took a ton of work to find a process that could cut a multi-level dial that looks as though it is made out of pixels. It looks cool in the images, but in person the dial has a rich depth to it and is quite impressive. But of course, first you need to be OK with a fancy video game screen shot on your wrist.One of the dials has the sprites in color, while the other is monochromatic. Both have the characters done in luminant. The watch itself is 46mm wide in PVD black steel. Each version is limited to just 78 pieces and should be available soon. For me, this watch is a good thing and a bad thing. Bad because it shows that I am getting old as the stuff I enjoyed as a kid is becoming highly nostalgic. Good because finally my heart strings are pulled on cheesy things like expensive video game homage watches that neither play video games nor get chicks... but I still want them dearly.SPACE INVADERS??1Calibre RJ001-AMechanical self-winding movementFrequency 28,800 vphJewelling 23 jewelsPower reserve 42 hoursWater resistance 3 atmFunctions Central hours and minutesCase ??46mmBlack PVD-coated steelLugs fitted with safety screws and integrated ball-and-socket joints for optimal wrist adjustmentCase with integrated back, composed of spare parts from Apollo 11Grainy-textured stellar-patterned back with medallion in MOON SILVERRJ representing the moonRJ safety screw on the case-back, exclusively accessible to watchmakersScrew-lock crownDial Black 3D dial with 3 beadblasted & satin-brushed levels.Pixelated ?? Space Invaders?? ?? lacquered in various original coloursHands Oxidised black, polished, with C1 superluminovaStrap Black vulcanised rubberGrainy-textured interior of stellar-patterned strapBuckle Black PVD-coated steelLimited edition 78 pieces (in reference to the year the game was launched)

Cartier Calibre Watch Review

There is a word that is thrown around a lot in the watch world that means the public takes a watch (or anything else for that matter) seriously. That word is legitimacy and I love to hear the French pronounce it. Cartier is what they call a legitimate brand. They have heaps of reputation, a solid history and plenty of important people who wear their products. Classic Cartier designs are also a great influence to their direct competitors. They really are the model of a solid luxury watch brand.A few years ago, Cartier decided that this was not enough. They wanted even more legitimacy, especially with the growing population of seasoned watch lovers. This meant adding a lot more high-end watches to their range, as well as offering in-house made movements. Well, sometimes "in-house" just meant no one else was using those movements but that's another matter altogether. I also suspect this push to make movements was partly due to ETA's (Swatch Group owned while Cartier is Richemont) continual threats to stop supplying movements to outside brands. ETA hasn't done this yet but Cartier was smart to invest in movement manufacturing in the event that it does happen.The first watches to contain in-house Cartier movements were very high-end. Cartier offered a brand new look and feel to the type of watch that could bear the Cartier name. All these watches had exotic movements and prices were on par with that of some very nice real estate. In 2010 Cartier announced the release of the simply named Calibre, a story that I covered here. The new masculine watch offered a sporty look (more so than Cartier's other sport watches such as the Pasha, Santos, and Roadster) as well as, for the first time, an "entry-level" Cartier with an in-house movement.That movement was the 1904 MC. A thin caliber automatic that had 48 hours of power reserve with a rotor set of ceramic ball bearings. It was rather nicely decorated, too. Functionally, it has the time with a subsidiary seconds dial and the date. Cartier made sure that it had enough differences in comparison to most of the base movements offered by ETA. You can see the movement via the sapphire caseback window on the back of the watch.I predicted in 2010 that the Calibre would soon have a bracelet option and in 2011 Cartier offered one. For me, the watch was now complete. Cartier is known for rather nice bracelets so it was a shame to see a new sport watch on just a strap. That is the one I wanted to review and so I did.The Calibre is deceptively large. Seeing it in a store window I would bet money it was larger than its 42mm wide size might suggest. Thanks to a hefty crown guard and large, widely spaced lugs this watch is one of the best optical illusions around. Thanks to the lugs allowing the bottom to wrap around your wrist, this watch is quite comfortable to wear and in addition to that, the piece does not have a tall profile.For the price, the detailing and finishing on the case and bracelet are very good. Thin strips of polished metal are placed around the brushed surfaces with the contrast between the two finishes being very good. Let me explain, on most cheaper watches when you have a brushed area and a polished area, the transition between these finishes is more of a blur/blend. It comes across as lacking refinement. On a watch like this (and many other higher-end pieces) there is a very distinct transition between the finishes. I hope that made sense.Detailing on the case is impressive with a great deal to look at - including recessed areas and, my favorite part, the bezel and flange ring. Look at the inner sides of the dial and it looks like you are viewing gear teeth. This design feature adds visual interest and complexity to a rather simple dial. Cartier really wanted to make sure the case and dial has the right mix of complexity and simplicity.The dial is pretty cool and I like seeing it and reading it. However, I feel that Cartier could have extended the minute hand a bit more and given it a bit more lume. In fact, I wonder what it would look like with larger hands overall. The sub second dial is tastefully done and the classic Cartier DNA is preserved with the Roman numerals. The biggest point of contention for most people is the "expanded' date window - Cartier is just being trendy with that. Personally, I don't like it and feel that it off-balances the dial. The large date window and crowd guard are meant to be harmonious shapes, but instead they help the watch look a bit "right heavy." Little quips, but Cartier sets a tall bar so I figured it was worth noting. Here, the dial is in black but they are also offered in white and brown.The bracelet is very nice and looks like that of an evolved Roadster bracelet. Aside from looking nice, the best part is the locking butterfly clasp. Some Cartier clasps are mere tension clasps which are prone to opening if your arm experiences shock. They can also degrade over time. The detailing on the clasp is very good and it operates smoothly.Features like the bracelet, bezel, perfectly domed AR coated sapphire crystal and in-house movement make the Cartier Calibre family of timepieces easy to lust for. Trust me that in the coming years Cartier will offer chronographs and other complications based on the 1904 MC architecture. For now, this model is affordable and attractive ... As well as legitimate. Priced at $7,500 for the all steel model and $10,950 for the steel with 18k rose gold model.

Romain Jerome Titanic DNA T-OXY III Watch Review

It takes a lot for a timepiece to be truly controversial. I am not just talking about people arguing whether a design is pretty or not. I mean a real discussion on whether the concept and construction of the watch is in good taste. Few people have been able to pull this off, and in the watch industry one man has been able to do it a few times - Yvan Arpa. For me, this watch sums him up, as well as the legacy he left behind during his time at Swiss watch brand Romain Jerome.During the height of the most modern economic boom, Romain Jerome was little more than a quirky brand that sold golf-themed timepieces. The problem was that most golfers didn't want to wear a watch (or a bulky one) while playing the game. The owners brought in Yvan Arpa who decided to create a watch that combined a few things: luxury, rarity, and unattainability. It also had to involve something that people all over the world would know about. An idea he settled on was the most famous sunken ship ever, the Titanic.He imagined a collection called the Titanic-DNA. A steampunkish watch that was said to contain parts from the Titanic. Some people were shocked by the idea, and others thought that it was "pretty cool." On more than one occasion I had to hear people speak of how horrified they were than someone would disgrace the memories of the people who lost their lives in the tragedy by making a watch with parts from the ship. Other people felt it was a pretty darn nice tribute to those lost souls. How you are personally going feel is subjective. For me, not being easily offended, I thought it was an interesting concept. My biggest question was always "exactly how much of the Titanic is in it?"The watch also allowed Arpa to play with his fascination with decay. He loves organic decay in design and plays with it in the use of oxidized metal - here used for the bezel of the watch. While this is not the very first Titanic DNA (Titanic-DNA) watch, it does have the purist, original dial. I feel that this watch is one of Arpa's enduring masterpieces.Arpa is no longer at Romain Jerome, which is now headed by the talented Manuel Emch, the brand continues the Titanic DNA collection with a series of interesting models and renditions. This model which is under the T-Oxy III range is offered in the brands current limited edition collection as of now. You can get it in black steel, polished and black steel mixed, or in 18k red gold (as seen here). The bezel is made out of what Romain Jerome calls their "stabilized Titanic Extreme rusted steel." This is where the "Titanic" part of the watch really comes in.There is a reason the watch is called Titanic "DNA." There are in fact small amounts of actual metal dragged up from the Titanic in the bezel. There is also metal recovered from the ship yard that the Titanic was produced at in Ireland, as well as other steel. Romain Jerome personally oxidizes the metal in a water treatment for several days before the bezels appear as they do. The idea is further to remind you of the oxidized nature of the ship metal deep below the ocean. One of the little ironies of the watch is the fact that the original metal used for the Titanic's hull is now generally agreed to have been used in error. That a better metal would have been stronger - likely tough enough to not tear when hitting an iceberg.The Titanic DNA case is 46mm wide and 15mm thick. You'll find that over the years Romain Jerome has offered it in a variety of styles and materials including steel, gold, and ceramic. While the case is simple in concept, there are a number of small details that make it interesting. These include the brushed and polished sections, and of course the bezel "claws." My favorite part is the dial. The hands are meant to look a bit like anchors, with lume at their tips, and the applied Arabic numerals are period perfect and brushed on the surface for ideal legibility. The hint of red on the subsidiary seconds - that looks like some type of engine room gauge - is a delicate and refined touch. There are Titanic DNA models with other dials identical to this one, but with date windows in the sub-seconds dial. However, I think this dial sans the date is more elegant. Look closely and you'll notice that the face has a texture a bit similar to the bezel. According to Romain Jerome the dial is made with a bit of "Titanic coal."On the back of the watch is an engraving of the Titanic (as it would have looks on the ocean, not in the ocean). Look closely on the hull and you'll see the number of the watch in the limited edition. Most Titanic DNA pieces are limited to 2,012 pieces. In fact, all Romain Jerome watches are part of limited edition sets. This particular model in 18k red gold has the reference T.OXY3.2222.00.BB. Attached to the watch is a rubber strap with an RJ initial on it and a locking butterfly clasp in titanium and 18k red gold. It is one of those types that is made to look like a standard ardillon buckle, but is more complex that than when opened using pushers on the side of the buckle. I like the RJ logo cut into the titanium part of the clasp. I also think that the watch would look really nice on a black alligator or crocodile strap.Inside of the watch is a Swiss Concepto made caliber C22RJ51 automatic movement. Overall I like this watch for a number of reasons - the Titanic part of the story is just something to help explain it to people. For me it is art by Yvan Arpa, a piece of history combined with the avant garde personality of Romain Jerome, and a 'watch icon' due to its completely polarizing nature. It is also well-made and feels good on the wrist, not to mention easy to ready. Price for this model in 18k red gold is 23,900 Swiss Francs, while the T-OXY III collection starts at 11,900 Swiss Francs.

Bid On Impressive Watch Collection Seized From Ponzi Scheme Villain

You've probably been seeing this picture a lot as infamous ponzi scheme wiseguy Scott Rothstein's massive watch collection goes up for auction this week. Let me tell you right away that if you want to bid, it needs to be right now. Sorry for the late notice, but according to the official documents, all bids need to be in by July 12th (see the link below for more info).Scott Rothstein might have been the worst type of smile in his business practices, but he was a rather accomplished watch collector. In contrast to all the other random expensive crap he had (like a gold toilet seat), his watch collections shows a true amount of time and dedication. In addition to standard fare like a bunch of Rolex and Franck Muller pieces, Scott had more exotic items such as Gerald Genta, Pierre Kunz, Jorg Hysek, Daniel Roth, BRM, and more.The collection includes both high-end and very high-end models, as well as men's and women's pieces. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at the range of piece in the collection. There are about 100-200 pieces I believe up for auction (which is held by the US Government).Check out the auction lot page here. At the top of the page there is a link to a "Written Bid Form," which is how you can bid remotely I believe. Worth your time to check out and good luck if you bid.

Giveaway: Orient Excursionist GMT Watch + Discount

Orient's diver automatic GMT watch called the Excursionist is this month' giveaway prize. The 45mm wide steel case is water resistant to 200 meters and features Orient's in-house Japanese made caliber 46P40 automatic movement. It has a fixed GMT hand that is used as a 24 hour indicator. It can also be used in conjunction with the bezel to track a second timezone. The watch is the ref. FFE06001(W, B, K, D), depending on the dial color. It comes in blue, black, gray, and white. The winner will be able to choose their favorite dial color (based on availability). The handsome watch comes on a steel bracelet and retails for $375. Enter below for your change to win one from this month.Orient is also offering a special discount to readers for until September 15, 2011. Use coupon code "ablogtoread50" to get 50% Orient watches when ordering online from their website.To Enter You Must: 1. Comment on this post below before the giveaway is over with your valid e-mail address where required. In the body of your comment mention whether you are or are not OK buying previously owned watches assuming they are in good condition. 2. Be a pal. If possible, Facebook friend/fan all or any of the following:Friend me on Facebook Like on FacebookLike Orient Watches on FacebookWant articles automatically sent to you via e-mail? Sign up here:3. Wait until the giveaway is over on August 31st, 2011 for the winner to be chosen at random.A couple of basic rules. You can only enter once. You must comment with a valid e-mail address where you can be reached. Your comment must be confirmed and approved. You must complete the objectives to be considered. You are responsible for providing your contact shipping information if you are chosen. Shipping restrictions to non US entrants may apply based on sponsor's policies. Giveaway watch selection based on sponsor's inventory and watch availability. All comments made after the end of the giveaway period will not be considered. For the full terms and conditions, please click here.Good luck, and thanks to Orient the sponsor of this Excursionist Automatic watch giveaway!

The way of expressing it is where all the creativity comes in

The watch world is full of limitless design - you want to take advantage of all the options.Hand FetishThey say that eyes are a window to one's soul. That may be true, but so are your hands. You may not have noticed it, but hands are extremely communicative when people talk. Either hands are part of elaborate Italian-style gesticulation, or they offer more subtle signs as to how someone is feeling. When communicating with others we almost always notice their hands. Think about it the next few times you are talking to someone. Close to the hands are the wrists, and one one of those wrists could be a watch.As human beings we have hand fetishes. We use them, notice them, and touch them. We also like nice things touching our hands. A fine watch is pleasing on the skin. Well-made metal and other materials that are soft and secure feeling - giving you something interesting to run your fingers over from time to time. Perhaps that is why I play with my watch when fidgeting.People looking at your hands will likely notice what is on your wrist. Give them something to enjoy that is worth all the attention.Eye CandyEach time I visit an art museum I think to myself "how wonderful would it be to be surrounded by beautiful art in my home all the time" I also consider how expensive of a proposition that is. Like most people I love art, and little of it I can take with me where I go. A few years ago I started to realize that there was art sitting on my wrist.The basic scheme of an analog watch is simple and consistent.  Watch design is therefore inherently artistic. There is a lot of crap out there, but the best stuff is beautiful and how often do you call a tool beautiful?Art on a watch can come in many forms. The dial can literally be a painting, or the design of the instrument itself is where the art comes in. For many people, the movement contains as much art as the case and dial. Art is the expressive elements placed over the necessary functional parts - so almost every watch has at least a bit.For those like me who need a little art in their lives daily, you'll have no problem finding many watches that move you just like a masterpiece in paint.Something to Remember You ByNot only is a timepiece the quintessential gift but it is the quintessential heirloom. While morbid in its tone, it is sometimes a good idea to consider life from beyond the grave. No matter what your philosophy is on the end of life, we can all agree that people can live on through the memories of those that knew them. I own a few timepieces from people I knew that are now deceased. Having these watches makes me think of them. Not just in general way, but in a real and breathing way. They wore these watches for a long time. The watches show signs of use and love, and life. To be honest I wouldn't care if these watches were $50 or $50,000 in value as long as they made me think of these people. The benefit however of passing down a nicer watch is that it is more likely to survive the test of time. You could also argue that it helps maintain a better image of you after you go, but that is up to the person leaving the watch.A watch collection is also a legacy. It doesn't necessarily have to be worth a mint, but leaving your watch(es) to someone you care about is an enduringly positive thought about passing on those values that were important to you, to someone else.Enough Reason?The funny thing about all this is that is on paper the justification for wearing and buying nice watches doesn't compare to the real life obsession so many people have with watches. For me, that is really the funny part of all this. It is about measuring one value over another. We like nice expensive watches even though cheap watches exist to do the same thing. Educated watch lovers vastly prefer mechanical watch over quartz ones even though quartz pieces are more accurate and arguably more convenient.A love of nice watches is emotional; a love of watches in general is practical (we like to easily tell the time). I believe that for me, the above reasons are the top ones why I lust for the finer watches in life. The psychology behind it is fascinating because of the pleasure it brings me (and others). The best thing you can do if you are also addicted to timepieces is simple, get your friends hooked as well.

Tissot Sculpture Line Skeleton Watch

This rare Tissot watch isn't one that you are likely to find at your local Tissot dealer. In their T-Gold collection, this Sculpture Line Skeleton watch comes in a 45mm wide 18k yellow or rose gold case. As a side note, did you know that Tissot makes 18k gold versions of their T-Touch watches? I had no idea, but they do. Yea, not only that but they also can come on gold bracelets - even in platinum too!Tissot begins with a Swiss ETA Unitas 6497 manually wound mechanical movement. This movement is often chosen when skeletonization is called for as you can really scrape out a lot of its guts to see how it all works. It even helps the basic movement look extremely beautiful when artfully skeletonized and engraved. What Tissot did here is clever. Offer a fully skeletonized watch, but one that is also still legible. The dial of the piece is more or less in tact when it comes to having all of the hour and minute indicators. Coming with a black or silver dial, Tissot uses sporty looking Roman numerals and a full scale of minutes as well as even the 24 hour time. Cut into the dial is an opening that looks like an upside down mushroom. This window does not interfere with telling the time, and gives you a view right into the movement.Over on the rear of the watch (through the sapphire exhibition window) is a more complete view into the skeletonization and decoration process. In my opinion it is very classy and tasteful and one of Tissot's top Sculpture Line pieces. It is even suitable as a daily wearer if you don't mind manually wound watches. One thing that isn't clear to me is how the crocodile strap fits to the case. In some images it has a more traditional straight end that sits between the lugs close to, but not touching the case. In other images, it uses a fitted strap that conforms to the shape of the case. I just don't know which one is actually used.Price for the Tissot beauty? Not really sure. I would imagine $5,000 - $8,000 most likely. While this is expensive given the price of most Tissot timepieces, the price will be rather reasonable given the movement decoration and 18k gold case. UPDATE: Retail price for the timepiece is $7,250.

Carl F. Bucherer Manero CentralChrono Watch

I spotted this prototype Carl F. Bucherer watch recently and was immediately taken by it. It combines a sense of retro-sport fashion and the function-mind execution that I have come to expect from the brand. I believe the official name for the watch is the Carl F. Bucherer Manero CentralChrono.In a Manero case, the watch is larger on the wrist being about 44-45mm wide (I would guess) and in steel. You can tell that it is available with an almost slate colored dial or a silvered one. The chunky style case is thick and brushed all around. There are polished elements on the dial for a nice contrast. That includes the nice looking applied arrow-head hour indicators and dauphine hands. Thankfully it is a sport watch so there are lume dots for the hours and lume on the hands. I also need to mention that the hands could be a bit longer - but it isn't bad.Aside from a few in-house movements based on the caliber A1000 base, Carl F. Bucherer often builds on ETA bases. I am not sure what the automatic movement in this Manero (CentralChrono) Chronograph GMT is, but it looks like a base ETA with a custom automatic rotor and a module. The magic is all in the module that cleverly gives this watch a bi-compax display with two distinct functions aside from the time.Those functions are a 60 minute chronograph and a subsidiary GMT time dial... and the date. Basically the chronograph uses two large centrally placed hands that are centrally aligned - for the chronograph seconds and minutes. The is sometimes called "central chronograph." The left subsidiary dial is for indicating the GMT time, and the right subsidiary dial is for the the time seconds. Aside from a GMT time that is a bit hard to read, the overall design is very logical and easy to use.While Carl F. Bucherer isn't normally known for their symmetrical dials, this one is a lesson is good looking function symmetry. Good job CFB. I think that Carl F. Bucherer should focus most of their efforts on modern pieces, if you do want to invest in one of their more traditional looking designs, a piece like this with a neat movement would be the one I would look at.

Jacob & Co. Ghost Watch

For me the most interesting watch I saw from Jacob & Co. this year was this Ghost G5 timepiece. The Ghost is a brand new collection for 2011 designed by Jacques Fournier (Horology Design Ltd.) in cooperation with Yvan Arpa who is now a figure at Jacob & Co. The Ghost will comes in a few forms and is called the G5 and GT5 as well (Ghost 5 time zones). The Ghost has a new five-sided case that is strange at first but ends up looking rather nice on the wrist. I like this watch a lot more than I might expect if you just described it to me on paper.This 47mm wide case shows up on two other new for 2011 Jacob & Co. timepieces called the Grand and the Global. All the new "G" watches have quartz movements. The Grand and the Global have analog faces while the Ghost has a slick new type of digital LCD screen that I haven't experienced before.Jacob & Co. offers the Ghost in a number of styles and decoration. For example, this model is in a PVD steel case with a baguette diamond decorated bezel. There are other diamond bezels available, as well as polished steel cases. Looks like gold might also be available as this prototype has some gold around the pushers. While it is almost heresy to think about a Jacob & Co. watch sans-diamonds, there is a carbon fiber bezel as well that looks pretty cool and sporty. Be sure to realize that the diamond bezel version models are super pricey.The big size of the watch isn't actually too bad. The 47mm wide case is rather comfortable and the unorthodox design draws attention in the right way. The brand really designed something that is both blingy and techie at the same time - which is something exceedingly hard to do much of the time.OK, so what is the deal with the movement? It has six screens, but the center one is just the Jacob & Co logo. Five of those screens are multi-functional screens that can show a range of information. That means you can see the time, calendar, chronograph, and other functions. I am not sure everything it does and to be honest you need to consult with the manual to figure it all out. To save battery life the screens are blank unless activated - due to the intense backlighting. The trade off is a range of color options. According to Jacob & Co. the screens are able to show 32 different colors. Not just that, but you can have the watch just keep changing colors - even while the screens are turned on. It is really rather quite disco if I may say.The Ghost is fun, that pretty much sums it up. People are gonna complain about the strange shape and the screens that go from pink to purple to green to red. Jacob's Jacob probably just sits back and smiles. He thrives off the high-end, high-risk, and highly original. The Ghost is really a timepiece that brand can call their own - and I swear I do want to wear one.

Quinting Mysterious Chronograph Watch

What does it take for one to spend about $7,000 - $10,000 (or more) on a quartz chronograph watch? And I mean an educated watch lover who knows about movements and isn't just buying for looks? Is there such a watch? Maybe... and maybe it is something like this Quinting Mysterious Chronograph. Certainly a rare breed, Quinting is a Swiss brand that makes all quartz movements, I mean mysterious quartz movements.The Quinting Mysterious Chronograph is really of the more complicated watches that Quinting makes. The actual name of it is pretty strange as it is called the "Quinting Chronograph Mysterious Quinting." Don't ask, I don't understand either.? The movements they produce are actually located in the bezel of the watch and involve a series of motors that turn sapphire crystal discs. The discs move the hands. As the chronograph models have a lot of hands, the watch movement gets really complicated. The chronograph movement for example utilizes 13 separate discs in the dial. You can see right through the dial to your wrist, and the entire mechanism is hidden in the periphery of the watch case - neat.For some hands-on images you can check out this previous article I did with Quinting timepieces. One thing I still don't get is how you read the AM/PM indicator and date. The scales are located on the flange ring, but what do you use to read it? The centrally mounted hand should be for the chronograph hours and seconds. The only thing I can guess is that pressing one of the pushers (or something like that) temporarily re-purposes one of the hands for the date and day/night indication.After developing the chronograph movement Quinting has placed it in a large range of models. The 43mm wide watch comes in steel or various types of gold with many different style and decoration options. There are also a lot of diamond and precious stone options as well for the bezel and case. One additional decorative thing Quinting sometimes does is place an image inside of the dial (as you can see one of the watches here has a done in the dial).As far as niche watches go, these are for very special collectors. I must say that having experienced Quinting watches hands-on, they are cool and well made - but also pricey given the lust most people have for mechanical watches, and given what quartz watches tend to go for. However, while these are quartz based movements, they are totally unique and no one else uses this patented technology. It is also one of the things that you can only do with electronic watches, which helps justify the use of the technology. You can see a few of these Quinting Chronograph Mysterious Quinting watches available at James List here.