Piaget Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-Thin Automatic Watch

For 2012 Piaget will release this very special watch that furthers their desire to be the thinnest around in a number or categories. Last year it was the Altiplano 43 Automatic that was the thinnest automatic watch with the thinnest automatic movement. This year (perhaps among other "record" things) Piaget will offer the thinnest skeletonized automatic watch around with this strikingly good looking Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-Thin timepiece.The Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-Thin is technically another "double record holder." That means it has the thinnest automatic skeletonized movement and the thinnest case for an automatic skeletonized watch. The Piaget in-house made Caliber 1200S is just 2.40mm thick while the entire case is just 5.34mm thick. This all makes for extremely wafer-like wrist wear.In a 38mm wide case the Piaget Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-Thin is yet another good-looking watch with black dauphine hands. The black & white gold look is very handsome. You see more of that for the movement's micro-rotor that is actually platinum and coated in a matte black. The 1200S automatic movement is based on the 1200P automatic movement. Piaget modified it a bit and highly skeletonized it. The skeletonization aesthetic is very modern and lovely. There are no floral patterns or highly decorative details. Mostly elegant lines and delicate polishes. The beveled edging on the bridges is a great touch. This is a formal looking watch with a very contemporary feel.There is a great view of the movement through the two AR coated sapphire crystals. I like how well you can see the rotor spinning around, as well as the placement of the balance wheel. The layout of the movement is very clever. I would have liked however for there to be some hour indicators - perhaps engraved into the movement - to improve legibility.The finishing on the movement is all done by hand. Piaget (again) is first and foremost a good movement maker. So this is beyond a mere fashion watch. It is probably one of the most interesting tuxedo watches that we will see in 2012. While it is only available in 18k white gold to start, I think it would look equally good in yellow or rose gold. A 43mm wide version would sit very well with me as well! Price is estimated by Piaget to be in the $60,000 range.

Zenith Captain Winsor Annual Calendar Watch

As a unique collaboration with the MIH (the Musée International d’Horlogerie), Zenith introduces a great new member of their Captain family of watches. With a base in-house made El Primero Chronograph movement, Zenith and the MIH have developed a special new module that adds a very legible and practical annual calendar complication to the mix. In total you get the high-beat El Primero automatic movement, a 60 minute chronograph, and an annual calendar with the date, day, and month. All that and a lit Ludwig.Ludwig? Yea, you know Ludwig right? I of course mean Ludwig Oechslin, and by MIH I really him. He is the curator of the MIH and a friggin' genius. One of his most interesting achievements was the creation of the "trilogy" set of astronomical watches for Ulysse Nardin in the 1990s. Oechslin is unique because he didn't start his life as a watch maker until he was about 30. Before that he was a mathematician. He is particularly good at engineering concepts requiring complex calculations. Admittedly, an annual calendar is not the type of thing that would blow his mind, but the Captain Winsor movement he design for Zenith is elegant and very practical.Zenith calls the new movement their El Primero caliber 4054 automatic. Under the dial is a triple disc system that indicates the three pieces of information for the annual calendar. The result is easy information indicated in windows. The day and month are located next to each other at 3 o'clock while the date is placed at 6 o'clock. The rest of the items on the dial (aside from the time) are the subsidiary seconds dial (at 9 o'clock) and the minute counter for the chronograph. For legibility, Zenith makes the chronograph hands their own color - here blue. Well the blue dialed version doesn't get this treatment unfortunately.The movement is visible through a sapphire caseback window and has a power reserve of about 50 hours. Being an El Primero is operates at 5 hertz (36,000 bph). This means that it is theoretically more accurate and allows the column-wheel based chronograph to be accurate to 1/10 of a second. If you've been wanting an El Primero by need a bit more than just a chronograph in your life, this Captain Winsor might be a good choice.For the classic look of the watch the case size of 42mm wide is appropriate. Zenith will offer it in steel as well as 18k rose gold. The dial is guilloche machine engraved with applied hour indicators and properly sized hands. Zenith is really leading the market today with mainstream models that have hands the right length. The steel version has either a steel and blue or steel and gold dial. The watch has a sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 50 meters. Zenith offers it attached to a black or brown leather strap. Overall an attractive piece with a lot of inherent functionality, and the Ludwig Oechslin connection is just the icing on the cake for me.

Citizen Eco-Drive Satellite Wave Watch Hands-On

Much to the chagrin of Casio and Seiko, one of the most talked about and anticipated Japanese watches of 2011 was this limited edition Eco-Drive Satellite watch from Citizen. Upped to being a limited edition of 990 pieces, this rather pricey timepiece dazzles with design and technology. The future is all about the East while the West seems to be obsessed with the past.I first discussed this Citizen Eco-Drive Satellite Wave watch here after seeing its debut. With the watch now released I got some hands-on time with one of the production pieces (thanks to Arizona Fine Time, a Citizen dealer). The final watch is rather impressive and very true to the concept version. It was unclear whether or not Citizen was going to actually make too many of these, but due to demand they decided a limited edition run was due. Having said that, I hear murmurs that Citizen will be not only using this special technology in future watches, but the Eco-Drive Satellite Wave will be followed-up with other versions that have different color tones (possibly next year).So what is this Eco-Drive satellite tech all about? I discussed it more thoroughly in the link above. Basically Citizen has developed a system for having the watch manually connect with GPS satellites to sync the exact time no matter where you are in the world. Previously watches of this theme were only able to connect with the radio signals of atomic clocks. But you needed to be in the vicinity of said atomic clocks - and those don't at all cover the entire world. The idea here is that you will be able to have the precise time, in a movement that is charged by the light, no matter where you are (on this planet).The idea sounds great but according to some it hasn't quite lived up to the hype. This is due to one critical drawback - that being that the watch will not automatically sync with the satellites. To sync with them you need to manually tell the watch you are ready to receive signals (and you probably need to be outdoors). My guess is that this is due battery power issues and that it doesn't have the power to constantly check for signals. I am sure that this is being looked into and hopefully will be improved in future renditions of the Eco-Drive Satellite movement concept. In this watch is Citizen's H990 caliber quartz movement.A lot of people are disappointed by the lack of automatic time synchronization in the Eco-Drive Satellite Wave watch. I understand that. The idea that the watch, like your mobile phone would always ensure it is showing the right time, no matter where you are is an easy thing to lust for. It is coming, but we are just not there yet. The issue almost always boils down to power consumption. If you are OK with manually telling the watch to sync the time, then you should be OK with this piece.At 48mm wide the case is mega-sized with a mega personality. The case itself is beautiful. As I understand it Citizen has developed some special way of doing a ceramic coating over steel. Whatever it is, the shiny gray case material is fantastic looking, especially with all those green inserts. Over the dial is a very dome crystal that reflect a lot of light. I would have liked for Citizen to bathe it in AR coating (especially at this price). One major complaint about the dial is the lack of luminant. For a sport looking watch it is really a shame to have no backlight or lume coated parts on the dial.Attached to the case is that green and black strap that needs to be cut to size. I tend to not like these, but once properly sized they world out. Citizen will charge you $80 bucks for a new one I hear. The overall fit and finish of the case and watch is impressive. Everyone also seems to like the presentation box it comes with. With some drawbacks that might be serious or trivial based on your needs, the Citizen Eco-Drive Satellite Wave wave is still very impressive and cool. No doubt it signals upcoming technologies and still shows that the Japanese have the total edge when it comes to producing the tech elite of the watch world. Price for the limited edition Eco-Drive Satellite Wave watch is a steep $3,800.

Vulcain Cricket Annivesary Heart Automatic Calendar Watch

While it is rather pricey this new version of Vulcain's Cricket Anniversary Heart Automatic calendar watch is a lovey timepiece. Over the last few years their Anniversary Heart models have been stealing my attention. I like the design that is classic but still bold, as well as the emphasis on mechanics. I still feel that Vulcain makes the best mechanical alarm watches around.One interesting benefit to a mechanical alarm such as this over an electronic one is the sound. While there are some notable exceptions, most electronic alarm watches have an anemic "beep, beep" to them. Vulcain's Cricket movements make loud buzzing noises and vibrate a bit. I really want to see electronic alarm watches do that as you'll certainly be aware that your reminder if going off. The Cricket movement's alarm also goes off for like 15-20 seconds. It all depends on how fully wound the alarm barrel is. That is sort of the down side - each time the alarm goes off, you need to wind it up again.This new version of the Anniversary Heart watch comes in an 18k rose gold case that is 42mm wide and paired with an anthracite dial. There are sections of the dial that are partially translucent, allowing for a review of the date ring and the movement. The little bits of exposed mechanics in the center of the dial as well as the hints of skeletonization are interesting. The skeletonized dauphine hands are bold and partially lume filled. The watch looks both good for formal occasions and impressing watch nerds alike.Inside the watch is the Vulcain manufactured Cricket V-22 movement. Cricket movements have been refined by Vulcain for something like 60 years now. Each Cricket movement has the time, and an alarm. This model also has the date, and features automatic winding. The rotor is anthracite gray coated and is mounted to the movement using ceramic ball bearings for winding efficiency. The case is water resistant to 50 meters. I wish it was more, but having any water resistance and being able to be loud is a difficult feat for any watch that is made to produce noises.Overall a very nice watch, it is also very expensive. That isn't the case for all Vulcain watches, but this Ref. 220536.269L Anniversary Heart Automatic Calendar watch retails for a hefty $41,650.

Roger Dubuis EasyDiver Blackswan Watch

As a supplement to the new for 2010 EasyDiver collection (that I wrote about here), Roger Dubuis has released a limited edition EasyDiver Black Swan watch you see before you. These are all revisions of years of EasyDiver watches and/or other sport models from Roger Dubuis - most have been good, all have been interesting.The Black Swan, as it is called, is named as such for use of a black ceramic bezel. While ceramic bezels are no longer particularly uncommon, this one is interesting given how complex the shape is. It is still not nearly as easy to cut ceramic as it is metal. For instance, how many square ceramic cases have you seen? While I don't know the particular ins and outs of how the bezel was made, I would guess it is significantly more complex than just a ring-shaped ceramic bezel. The complexity comes in with the notches and the numerals done in pared to the watches from 2010 the Black Swan certain has more of a night look. I would go so far as to say "black swan" look. Is that like black sheep? Black Swan makes me think of something dark and elegant - which I guess in a sense this watch is. Mostly I think back to other names that Roger Dubuis added to its dive watches that are equally silly such as "SAW" (sport activity watch), and Seamore.Aside from the black ceramic bezel the case is in steel and 46mm wide. There are carbon fiber inserts on the sides of the case (which you can see if you like to the previous article above). Quality and comfort are high for this range. The Black Swan comes in three dial choices. All that changes on each are the hands and hour indicators. What do you prefer, black, white, or orange lume?Other than the bezel and minor dial changes the EasyDiver Black Swan is the same watch as the 2010 new model as far as I can tell. Inside the watch is a Roger Dubuis in-house made caliber RD821 automatic movement. The watches are water resistant to 300 meters and come on nice rubber straps. Unfortunately the price is pretty high, even though there will only be 88 Black Swan watches made. Up from about $13,000 for the 2010 Roger Dubuis EasyDiver models, the Black Swan will retail for around $20,000? (13,900 Euros).

Breitling Chronomat 44 Limited Edition US Veterans Tribute Watch

As an interesting limited edition watch for the United States, this Breitling Chronomat 44 watch will be limited to just 50 pieces and bear the Great Seal of the United States along with the message "Breitling for America. United We Stand" on the rear of the watch.A few years ago the Chronomat 44 watch came out and contained Breitling's first in-house made movement called the Caliber 01 chronograph automatic. 44mm wide and in Breitling's lovely polished steel case, this watch serves as a fitting base for the limited edition. This model with its black textured dial and red accents is a real handsome piece. The case and dial design are aging very gracefully and this is truly a handsome piece. Breitling is actually one of the only brands that does make watches simply too large for my wrists, and I almost never say that. This 44mm wide version of the Chronomat isn't one of them however.Depending on who you are and your perception of the message on the rear of this watch you'll either love it or hate it. When it comes down to it, this is Breitling banking on the power of iconography to push this piece to the patriotic US consumer. Would it be cool to have a Breitling watch with the Great Seal of the US on the back? Sure. Would I pay a handsome premium for it? Not sure. Another carrot is that sales proceeds of the 50 watches will go to benefit the Fischer House Foundation charity.The Fischer House Foundation is a charity that produces housing for the families of soldiers in the military who are receiving medical treatments. The housing is meant to be temporary housing for the families while they stay nearby VA centers and other military hospitals while their loved ones get care and treatment. It is a pretty legit foundation.Overall the pieces are really nice, but I don't see much of a connection to veterans on the watch itself. The watch itself is about Breitling and America (sort of), while the charity doesn't really connect with the timepiece theme. If you think about it, Breitling designers could have done some awesomely artistic stuff using the concept of remembering veterans (in the US and around the world). Those people interested in these limited edition Chronomat 44 US Veteran Tribute watches will only be able to find them at Breitling boutiques in New York City and Aventura, Florida. Or call (855) 999-1884. I recommend that you call and just talk about any ol' Breitling stuff. Price for each of the 50 pieces is $8,960.

Jean Dunand Shabaka Watch Hands-On

Hands-on with the Shabaka watch was very interesting. I have been fascinated by the Art Deco-themed watch by Jean Dunand since it came out a few years ago. Jean Dunand is an interesting super-high-end brand that produces exclusively "piece unique" creations. On my wrist is an 18k white gold Shabaka with a baguette diamond-lined bezel.I think the Shabaka originally came out in 2007, but new pieces are slowly being made. The movement is entirely made and designed by Christophe Claret. In fact, all Jean Dunand watches (Tourbillon Orbital, Palace) have movements done by Christophe Claret. Until Mr. Claret had his own brand, Jean Dunand was basically it.The Shabaka watch design is a combination of Art Deco and modern Egyptian, if that latter term even makes sense. There is something very strong and architectural about the design, like a fortress on the wrist. The size of the watch is 44mm wide, I believe, but it is very tall. The many angles of the case coalesce with a dial design that is highly unique. Here, Claret went all out with rollers and discs.Inside the watch is Christophe Claret caliber CLA88QPRM. I like trying to decode the movement name. The CLA obviously means Claret. The numbers involve what movement it is, either in some chronological or formal scheme. "QPRM" relates to the functionality, which is probably "quantieme perpetual repetition minutes." Or something like that. As the name implies, the movement has a perpetual calendar, moon-phase indicator, and minute repeater. Oh, and the time--if you can spot the hands. On the rear of the watch you can see the movement. Part of it says "power reserve indicator", so I guess you can add that function to the list. It actually works by offering a view to the mainspring to see how tightly wound it is.Based on a few of his watches, I have deduced that Christophe Claret has a pet-peeve about pushers that you can accidentally press--but at the same time he prefers against inset pushers. So what he did for this watch was engineer little lever-locks on the underside of the case that apply to the pushers that adjust the calendar functions. Clever, right? However, you will see one inset pusher on the side of the watch which is likely for the leap year adjustment.The dial of the watch shows the date, month and day-of-the-week on red aluminum rollers. The concept is very cool and was later applied in other ways to watches such as those Claret designed for Maitres du Temps (the Chapter One). Activating the minute repeater, a Christopher Claret specialty, requires pulling down on the lever on the left side of the case.The imposing look of the watch is multiplied by its incredible exclusivity and rarity. It looks pretty cool on the wrist as well, if you can pull it off. This model with diamonds is new, of course. One like it may be made in 18k rose gold as well. The way Jean Dunand often offers a new "piece unique" is by producing the same watch but with minor color or material differences. Still, they are produced in an extremely limited fashion. The Shabaka watch, named after the Egyptian pharaoh, with its diamond bezel is priced at around $500,000.

HourTime Show Watch Podcast Episode 88

In 2007, I built as a hobby site to share my love of watches with other people. Now, over four years later - and with more than 2,000 is no longer just about me, but a team effort. The blog has evolved with the help of talented designers, programmers, and artists. In addition to my regular articles, has a growing roster of dedicated contributors. Moving forward the site will be more of a team effort - multiple voices with a singular passion in bringing you the best watch content.My gratitude goes out to the many sponsors and supporters who have been instrumental in making the site what it is today. The site exists for the readers and many dedicated watch lovers all over the world. You've made it fun, interesting, and worth the effort. So please continue to participate and enjoy. Thanks for keeping the time good.

We finish up the gift guide with high-end watch recommendations and then proceed to discuss my trip to Nivarox. We also discuss upcoming high-end watch brand HYT.Listen to the HourTime Show watch podcast episode 88 here. Download the MP3 here.

Bid On Impressive Watch Collection Seized From Ponzi Scheme Villain

You've probably been seeing this picture a lot as infamous ponzi scheme wiseguy Scott Rothstein's massive watch collection goes up for auction this week. Let me tell you right away that if you want to bid, it needs to be right now. Sorry for the late notice, but according to the official documents, all bids need to be in by July 12th (see the link below for more info).Scott Rothstein might have been the worst type of smile in his business practices, but he was a rather accomplished watch collector. In contrast to all the other random expensive crap he had (like a gold toilet seat), his watch collections shows a true amount of time and dedication. In addition to standard fare like a bunch of Rolex and Franck Muller pieces, Scott had more exotic items such as Gerald Genta, Pierre Kunz, Jorg Hysek, Daniel Roth, BRM, and more.The collection includes both high-end and very high-end models, as well as men's and women's pieces. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at the range of piece in the collection. There are about 100-200 pieces I believe up for auction (which is held by the US Government).Check out the auction lot page here. At the top of the page there is a link to a "Written Bid Form," which is how you can bid remotely I believe. Worth your time to check out and good luck if you bid.

Ellicott Majesty Watches Hands

I got a call a few months ago from Ellicott's CEO, he was anxious to speak with me about an article I had written about the brand. Let me back up a moment, here. I learned about Ellicott maybe or year or two ago. The brand is only in their second year of existence as of writing this article. From the beginning, I have enjoyed the look of most of their watches and was impressed by their in-house movement. It is a brand I had high esteem for.On the phone with the CEO, I am hearing about how he is concerned about an article I wrote that he felt disparaged the new brand he was trying to build. The article actually praised the cool design of the Mach One Skymaster Aviator watch thought it ruthlessly poked fun at the press release and marketing information. He was being protective; I get that. It was nice to have to defend my sense of humor.My reaction to the brand's outreach was quite positive. A good CEO takes responsibility for things like that. Both on my end, and on their end, for the press release that should never have been released. In all fairness, high-end watch press releases en masse are about as good as four-week old milk that has been left out on the kitchen counter.My conversation with Ellicott ended well, I think. An invitation to view the watches was finally realized and I got to get some hands-on time with the pieces. By the way, the Mach One Skymaster Aviator is very nice with its carbon case and slick look.My two favorite models, for now, are in the Majesty collection. I previously wrote about the Ellicott Majesty collection here. The cushion-shaped cases are sharply cut and have nice round dials. The faces are very unique with high-quality elements and a design that is uniquely spirited. The hands are very cool with a bulbous hour hand and a needle arrow minute hand.At 42mm wide, the case feels like a good size. It comes in materials such as 18k white or rose gold, tantalum, titanium, and DLC black-coated steel. Here, the watches have black DLC coated steel cases with titanium or gold bezels. Just nice stuff over all - and that chronograph is a cherry little beauty of a sport watch.Inside the pieces is a very special in-house movement called the MR-3. It seems as though the name is?? same for both the subsidiary seconds dial version and the chronograph model. The movement is made in-house by Ellicott and features a periphery (they like to call it a circumferential) rotor that is in 18k gold. The rotor goes around the side of the movement so that you can appreciate it with an unobscured view. Ellicott claims that their movement is the first of its kind (in gold...). It came out about the same time as the Carl. F. Bucherer A1000. To be honest, I have no idea whose movement came out first. I see a feud 'a comin.The automatic movement is decorated in an interesting way: Much of it is black, while the rotor is in 18k rose gold. Power reserve is 70 hours (without the chrono running - that brings it down to 55 hours). While the dial is beautiful and legible for the chrono, I would like to see a model in the future with a 12 hour chronograph. Both watches have sapphire crystals and SuperLumiNova lume coated dials. Even at 13mm thick, the case feels thinner than it is. The high-end feeling alligator straps are comfortable and these are watches that will get noticed. Prices for the Ellicott Majesty line start at around $13,000 - I believe. For this design, quality, and the in-house made MR3 automatic movement, the price feels fair as well.

Rare Vintage Tudor Chronograph 94210 Stainless Steel Monte Carlo Dial NR

At the same time, you'll have a dedicated project page on Kickstarter that you can market yourself.It is worth noting that Kickstarter must individually approve projects. You need to look at their terms and conditions and understand that your project will not be automatically approved. is interested in helping people start their dream projects, and wants to make sure there is equal value for the project starter and the backers. Kickstarter does not want you to use their service merely to sell existing products.Kickstarter offers you a large one-page style area to offer text, images, and videos about your project. You are limited to their format, but of course have the option of having a separate external website. Kickstarter offers you the ability offer various items for backers to pledge for. Though it does make it a bit tough for people to back something multiple times (they want more than one) or for you to offer a few things at the same price (pledge amount).How do you get your money? Kickstarter handles the transactions and money goes through Amazon Payments that you'll need to hook up to your bank account. It seems rather straight forward, though I don't know how it works with international accounts. Backers only have money taken from them if your goal amount is met, and it happens when the project timeline ends. The biggest drawback people experience is the amount Kickstarter and Amazon Payments take. I hear that in total it is about 8-9%?? (Kickstarter takes about 5% and Amazon Payments takes about 3.5%) of the total amount you raise (though you'll need to consult with Kickstarter for precise details on fees and payment). Though most agree the amount is fair and reasonable.According to most of the project starters I spoke with, the limitations of Kickstarter pale in comparison to the benefits. This applies not only to the service but also the site's audience. I have to say that the potential money a project can raise to get started is really impressive. A famous example is a project for an iPod Nano watch strap that had backers pledge almost one millions dollars.The general rule of thumb is that the more serious you want backers on Kickstarter to take you, the more serious need to appear. This can mean having actual prototypes of watches available to video and photograph. If you have mere renderings and no prototype, then don't expect too much from potential backers. Timing is also important. While their money is safe unless other backers pledge for the project, people don't want you to take another year to get your watch produced. Of course, the lower the price of each watch, the less this is an issue. is also still relatively new. This means that there is a limited learning curve to using the service, and customer service for Kickstarter is reportedly very difficult to contact. Also, there are usually thousands of projects listed on at any given time. This means that while the potential for getting a lot of eyes on your project is there, you'll need to focus on your own marketing at least to some degree.Again, and this is an important point - Kickstarter reportedly does not see themselves as an e-commerce site to help people sell large amounts of product. Kickstarter doesn't want people using their service to sell existing products or as a way of selling pre-made products en mass. Be prepared to have to pitch your project to their people for approval.Overall it looks like using Kickstarter is an excellent option for people interested in making and selling a single watch or starting a brand - especially if selling directly to the consumer is in your business plan. People starting a larger brand will likely use other funding sources, but overall if you are looking to make a watch (or really anything) check out what can offer you.

Funding A New Watch Brand With

So you wanna build a watch? It is a common dream of enterprising watch lovers to simply posit "I just want to start my own watch brand." It actually isn't as hard as you might think. There is a universe of services, companies, and resources to help you when starting from scratch. In fact, contributing writer Paul Hubbard wrote a post on this very topic here. There you'll find information on actually making the watch, but more importantly is funding your project.Whether you are interested in starting a new brand or just building a one or two models, you'll need money upfront for the design and prototyping. Then you'll need more money for the industrialization and actual production. In between are costs for marketing, customer service, and a series of other little money-eaters.The potential pay-off is real. If you build a nice looking watch you can made a handsome profit given a reasonable margin on your production and design costs. Though funding a large scale production of watches without an existing marketing is a very risky move. So how do you proceed?One typical practice when money is tight is to build a prototype or just a computer mock-up design, and then solicit people for pre-order money. These people pay a fraction of the retail amount (usually at a discount because they are pro-ordering), and then the rest when the watches are actually delivered. Such small production runs are usually limited, which is a good thing as people place additional value on limited edition watches. So on the one hand you get the peace-of-mind knowing "model X" will only have 200 pieces, and the consumer feels that they are getting something exclusive as "model X" will only be available as 200 pieces.After you have collected enough pre-order money you fund production of the watches. The safety here is that aside from initial design and possible prototyping, you aren't going to be out production money unless something awful happens and you need to pay back all the pre-order customers. Again, I am simplifying the process here to give you an overall picture of how a small watch production goes.The big question goes back to "where do I find these pre-order customers?" The traditional answer has been on the dedicated watch forums where such customers tend to hang out. Sometimes these watches will be discussed on blogs such as mine, but for the most part these watch projects live within smaller communities. So how do you take the same business plan but get more people interested? A great resource is a great tool for people with an idea looking for money. It is a type of "crowd-funding" service that allows people to pitch their products or ideas and have people become project "backers." Backers dedicate a certain sum of money that is only taken out of their bank accounts when an overall monetary goal as been reached.Let me give you an example. Say I want to build the model X watch as a limited edition of 100 pieces to start. I know that I need $40,000 to produce the first 100 pieces and I want the retail price to be $1,000. I go to and post the project with a full description of the watch including video of me talking about how cool model X will be. I create a goal amount of "$50,000" and tell people that if they pledge $500, they will get the watch that will later retail for $1,000 when the second production starts. I tell them that the first run watches are special limited editions with unique casebacks, colors, etc... Project times vary but are usually about 45 days. This is a protection to backers to ensure that projects don't just sit around forever until they are fully funded.If I get 100 backers at $500 each, then the project will produce $50,000. $40,000 of which will go to producing the first 100 watches, and $10,000 of which is profit. That is how you fund an initial watch production. The good news is that after initial production has started and you've made 100 pieces. The machining for the watches is still intact. This means you can produce the next 100 (or however many) pieces at a cheaper cost. You also know that because the first 100 pieces sold,?? perhaps you can sell more. not only can provide you with the necessary eyes to fund the project, but was also the monetary conduit (but they take a modest cut of course).So how does all this translate into real world experiences? To find out I talked to a few people that are actually in (or just finished) the process of funding watch projects. I spoke to Zach Raven whose project is here, and Thomas Young whose project is here. There are more added to Kickstarter all the time.What they have in common is that they are new to the watch game or not serious industry insiders and are offering backers a range of things that they can pledge on. For each of them was a great place to fund their project for a few reasons - but the process is not without some limited drawbacks.The best part of Kickstarter seems to be the instant access to a large audience of people - who are actually interested in dedicating money to back projects. Not only that, but using is a bit like free advertising given all the eyes.

Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms Aqua Lung Watch

This is the second "tribute" model in the Fifty Fathoms watch collection and to get both models straight you'll need to pay close attention to the names. This one is the Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms Aqua Lung watch, whereas last year's model is the Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms watch (note no Aqua Lung at the end).As it is a limited edition, I am not exactly sure how many pieces will be made but this model is very attractive. Is it more so than last year's model with the "no radiation" dial? Just a different look. This Tribute to the Aqua Lung has a more mainstream feel, which I like. The case and movement are the same as you'll find in the standard Fifty Fathoms watch. That means it is in steel and 45mm wide. It also has an in-house automatic movement with several days of power reserve and I love that blue-tinted nautilus style automatic movement on the rotor.The original Aqua Lung model that this watch is based on is from the 1950s and is, of course, a collector's item. You can view a picture of it in the post here and see how Blancpain took steps to replicate the dial while maintaining the feel of the modern watch. The resulting dial is simple and utilitarian, but made nice by the high-end features and construction of the timepiece. I am still loving this watch even though it s a few years old (the base Fifty Fathoms I mean). I enjoy the size, curved sapphire over the bezel, and the great finishing on the case.This model also gets a textile strap with large portholes in it. Not sure if the original had those but it looks cool. I feel pretty strongly that among high-end dive watches, the Fifty Fathoms is overlooked a lot. These tribute models are a good way of helping Blancpain remind people of the brand's heritage and history. Aside from the dial and some minor details, there isn't too much new for this year. Look for the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms Aqua Lung watches soon.

John Isaac Geneve Rough Sea Watch

New watch brand John Isaac Geneve is serving up some more than decent timepieces that play Frankenstein with some of your favorite brands. They seem to particularly like playing house with Patek Philippe and Franck Muller, though JeanRichard makes an entrance pretty often. The brand's debut collection features a range of pieces for both men and women. Their diver is called the Rough Sea and comes in three dial colors.Each of the brand's watch cases are elliptical in shape. They bring to mind the iconic Patek Philippe Ellipse watch. Though the Rough Sea case is more Patek Philippe Aquanaut in design with some JeanRichard Diverscope in the mix. You can see more of the Diverscope in John Isaac's Grand Prix chronograph watches.The mixture of design elements and famous watch styles is rather satisfying actually. Seeing those Franck Muller numerals (that actually originated before Franck Muller was around. I recall seeing them on early 20th century Patek Philippe watches) mixed with Patek elements and sport themes is neat and something I wouldn't have considered myself. While those numerals are more present on John Isaac's other pieces, you do get it for the 12 o'clock indicator on this watch.In a steel case that is water resistant to 50 meters the Rough Sea is 35.5mm wide but taller than it is wide so it does not feel so small. Though this is a medium-sized watch. As you can see in the "lifestyle" shot that John Isaac provides, the watch is certainly not in the family of massive dive watches. Some of you will love this, others wont. With 50 meters of water resistance this is strictly a desk (or dinner) diver watch. You shouldn't really be doing more than washing your hands or dishes with this on (more like Tame Sea). Actually, that is a bit of a shame as it would be nice to have this nice looking dive-style watch be more activity suited. Then again, most logical people would retort with the fact that something like 1-2% of people wearing dive watches even take them underwater.Crystal is sapphire and there is another sapphire crystal on the caseback of the watch showing off the movement. In this case that is a Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic that is said to have some decoration. The term they use is "deluxe" which could mean anything. The textured dial is appealing and I like the integration of the internal rotating diver's bezel. Sporty orange is used for the hour hand, while all the hands and hour numerals are applied with LumiNova lume (no SuperLumiNova?). Dial styles are black, blue and gray. While I like the black dial version best, it might be wise to get a blue or gray version as the black minute hand might blend in too much with the black dial causing legibility issues.The lugless case design is attractive and I overall like the style of the watch. It works well and is polished in its look. John Isaac matches the Rough Sea with a buffalo leather strap with folding clasp. They also provide an additional rubber strap, which should go well with this look. Price for the John Isaac Rough Sea watch 1,990 Swiss Francs and you can get them online via their website.

Giveaway: Stolas Harbormaster Gennaker Watch

The watch has slits in case back for air and water to enter to reach the sensors.Lume on the dial is really great. Tissot applied luminant to the dial and bezel, as well as the hands of course. The SuperLumiNova is applied generously which is certainly a benefit to visibility. There is also the nice bright red backlight for the LCD screen that you can use. The hands seem to be the right length, which is really important in a watch that does so much more than tell the time with the hands.From a function perspective you get a lot with any T-Touch family watch. Inside are Swiss quartz movements specially developed for Tissot by ETA. The combine an analog dial with a LCD screen. To operate the movement there are three pushers (rubber coated on this watch) as well as use of the receptive sapphire crystal. Inside the Sea-Touch is the ETA 48.301 movement which is a variation of the other T-Touch movements. To incorporate the diving features, some others have been removed that you can find on other watches such as the T-Touch Expert or T-Touch II. The Sea-Touch features include (in short): the time, second timezone, perpetual calendar, alarm, chronograph, temperature, compass, dive time meter, depth gauge, and logging functions. If you really want to know more about the movement's features and operation you can access the official Tissot Sea-Touch Instruction Manual here.Using the movement is rather straight forward once you get used to it, and people with experience using other T-Touch watches will be right at home. For those who are new to the T-Touch, you need to press the center pusher on the side of the case to active the screen so that you can activate most of the functions. The dive functions are tough to explain thoroughly but make sense. There are two basic dive modes, manual and automatic. In manual mode you tell the watch that you are about to dive by activating the "Dive" function. The watch knows when it touches water and the dive time counter begins. The watch hands turn into the depth gauge using the bezel as a scale. The minute hand will show you your maximum depth while the hour hand indicates your current depth.In automatic dive mode the watch automatically switches to dive mode when you are about one and a half meters under water. This seems to only effect the dive time. You can later use the log functions to recall info about your last dive. Also, while understand some, but not all of the features are usable. I do like that you can use the compass underwater though! For those who dive this info is all great. For those who don't, you can at least be prepared if someone ever pushes you into a pool.Unlike my Tissot T-Touch Expert which is in titanium, the Sea-Touch is in steel. I like having both in my collection and think that a good dive watch should be in steel. The case is about 44.5mm wide and thick at almost 16mm. It is a robustly sized watch with a bold but no obnoxious stance. Comfort is impressive as I enjoy the flat caseback and how it sits on my wrist. In addition to the rubber strap the Sea-Touch has this option metal bracelet which looks very attractive. The links are mostly brushed with but some polished areas on the their bottom which makes for a interesting effect. Like a good dive watch bracelet it has some micro-adjust settings and a diver's extension clasp. The only thing I would ask for different is a milled deployment clasp versus one that is stamped metal.While the Sea-Touch isn't the dive watch to end all dive watches I don't have any complaints with it really. Tissot did a very amicable job of turning the T-Touch into a real diver that goes into the depth and takes a liking. The added benefit is also a T-Touch that is more durable. I think most people can stand behind the design even if you don't agree it is always suitable for suit and tie occasions. Personally I like this one a lot and the price for the Tissot Sea-Touch watches range from $1,150 - $1,250. You can learn more or purchase them from Tissot online here. Thanks to Tissot for the review unit. Opinions are 100% Independent.

Tissot Sea-Touch Watch Review

I've come to accept that fact that I'll never really use the Tissot Sea-Touch watch to its full capacity. With at least a third of its features specifically made for underwater use, the dive instrument is but a dry reminder of where it wants to actually be while on land. That actually isn't bad, if you like the functionality of the Sea-Touch as a lifestyle item then you have quite watch. This isn't just a dive watch, this is a dive watch that really wants to dive - and that has to do with some of the computerized diving functions. The Sea-Touch is also very attractive, and it happens to position itself between pure diving computers and sophisticated Swiss timepieces.For years Tissot has tempted even hardcore mechanical watch lovers with its T-Touch collection of multi-function touch screen watches. Using a pusher that "activates" the sapphire crystal, you have access to certain features by pressing on various parts of the dial. I previously did a hand's on review of the Tissot T-Touch Expert watch here, where you can learn more about this technology.? This bona fide gadget watch is a serious cool toy and has found places on lots and lots of wrists. In 2009 Tissot released the Sea-Touch, the first diving version of the T-Touch collection, and it is one of my favorites.What first attracted my attention to the Sea-Touch was the size and style. It was just really cool looking. Offered in a sporty black and orange on rubber, or more sober black and white version, it has a masculine look that combines just the right amount of tech and town for me. You could easily wear this watch in non-diving contexts and not be looked at strangely. This is actually a major point of the watch - to look universally good. Most people with taste will agree that while a Casio or Suunto multi-function watch is really cool, there are lots of times when it just isn't appropriate to wear one.Tissot uses that strict Swiss sense of style and design to incorporate all the functionality into a slick watch that looks good with a suit. You know who did that first? Rolex. Now you wouldn't think twice if you saw someone with Submariner and tie. My favorite Sea-Touch is this version (ref. T0264201103101) with the mostly white dial with black trim. There is also another black and white version that is mostly black with white trim. What makes the dial design really sharp are the hands that stick out nicely without looking like orange eyesores. Because dive watches must inherently have hands that are easy to see in murky, low light conditions, often times dive watches have ugly obnoxious hands - not the case here.According to Tissot the Sea-Touch abides by European EN 13319 diving watch norms for legibility, water resistance, anti-magnetism, shock resistance, durability, and other properties. This with 200 meters of water resistance means that you can not only dive with the watch, you should. According to Tissot the recommended maximum dive depth with the Sea-Touch is 100 meters. Perfectly fine with me, especially as earlier T-Touch models were known to have water resistance issues.

Snob Worthy Links October 5, 2010

It’s official: the squishy bag is back. Phoebe Philo did an about turn from fall, sending out for spring a series of squashy clutch and handheld shapes that were a departure from the structured, ladylike shapes for fall. Simplistic in design and rich in color (check out that plum!), the handheld shoulder bag features a subtle gold metal detail and leather knot tie. The other shape, more suited for evening, is a small pouch-shaped top-zip bag with thin metal straps and leather trimmed handles. Once the entire collection of leathergoods hits the showroom, I’m sure there’ll be a larger variety to choose from. Personally, I’m dying to see the now-iconic Luggage tote in this gorgeous plum leather. Elegant, but with conviction. That’s how you do it, Phoebe Philo style.

The original Kate Spade New York diaper bags are back, better than ever and Tot Snob has a preview.Shearling and Leather Jackets Are The Perfect Fall Staple at TheFind!There’s something about these shoes that Shoe Snob can’t stop salivating over.Fall Accessories We’d Sell Our Laptops For (But Don’t Have To ‘Cause They’re Cheap) at The Budget Fashionista.Beauty Snob says, “Holy crap, this is amazing!” See for yourself.Snag Britney’s Sexy Black Boots at Recessionista Blog!The jewelry most dear and near to Jewel Snob’s heart were created by her good friend, Jewel Artist Cindy Chao.All in all, a very pregnant Alicia Keys as a best dressed of the week–if not year at Couture Snob.

Alexander Wang Torrence Flap Bag with Metal Plate

Alexander Wang once again pushes the envelope (more like tackles it) and comes out shining on the other side. Like, literally. With his genius use of hardware, his bags are creating a sparkling light show in many a fashionista’s closets. He has redefined steampunk for the current generation by taking a classic flap bag in conventional leather and modernizing it in an unexpected but elegantly way by embellishing it with metal plates on either side. The protruding studs on the strap are not so conspicuous when on but definitely stamps it with the Alexander Wang signature. There is no need to take the hardware into serious consideration, this bag will go seamlessly with any of your ladylike or business executive outfits. And yes, of course as well with your trendiest. At Alexander Wang Torrence Flap Bag with Metal Plate“>Shopbop for $995.

For the past few weeks, it has been pretty difficult for me to be objective when it comes to Katherine Heigl. To me, hair is a big part of an entire red carpet look, and I don’t particularly like this boxed dye look on her. But for the moment, I am distracted and I’m distracted in a good way.Glistening between her fingers and in her palm is a stunning Sylvia Toledano clutch. Combing a few of my favorite things (black, gold and sparkle), this clutch is just the accessory Katherine needed to complete this look. Her wine colored satin David Meister cocktail dress is a pretty dress, I’ll give her that, but add this clutch and you’ve got yourself an outfit. Why else would the photographer zoom in so closely on the clutch?

Perrelet Turbine Poker & 007 Limited Edition Watches

These two limited edition Perrelet watches go together right? Sure they do, gambling and 007? I am going to be careful and not mention James Bond. Perrelet doesn't mention James Bond and I don't think they licensed the right to use that IP franchise. Though apparently "007" was OK to use. The imagery they use however when discussing the Turbine 007 watch on the new Turbine micro-site is strongly evocative of the James Bond theme - without outright saying so. The official name by the way of this watch is the Perrelet Turbine 007 License To Play watch.Then there is the Perrelet Turbine Poker... which if you have a "license to play," you can. This piece actual comes in three distinct models. The difference of each? The cards displayed under the turbine.? Version 1 (Ref. A4018/1) has random cards and a pair of sevens. Version 2 (Ref. A4018/2) has a pair of sevens and two royal flushes. Version 3 (ref. A4018/3) has a pair of sevens, three kings, three jacks, and a few other random cards. Don't ask why they are arranged that way (I don't know).Unlike the Perrelet Turbine XL America limited edition, these two models use the original Turbine case that is 44mm wide (and does not have the side claws). The Turbine 007 (ref. A8008/1) is done in a steel DLC black coated case with gold-toned elements throughout. The center of the turbine is actual 18k rose gold. License to Play what exactly? I think the watch is cool, but I don't see the 007 theme in there that much. Perrelet will produce 888 of these.You can see more information and videos here at Perrelet's Turbine website. The Turbine Poker has a similarly toned 44mm steel case with a DLC coating. Both models feature Perrelet's P-181 double rotor automatic movements. These are fun watches, and certainly novelties. Not for everyone, but the right wrists know how to make these timepieces feel at home. Prices are about $6,000 each.

Christopher Ward C9 Harrison Jumping Hour Watch

Christopher Ward really does release a lot of new timepieces each year. A few of them are real winners in my opinion. One of those which is interesting is this new C9 Harrison Jumping Hour watch, which is actually the most expensive watch Christopher Ward has every offered at $1,585. Not for everyone, this is a great piece for those who have been fascinated by jumping hour complications - one of the first types of watches to experiment with digital displays.A jumping hour watch basically has a disc with numerals on it for the hour. This disc "jumps" each hour to show the correct hour digitally. The minutes are still indicated via a traditional analog hand. The idea of this watch is to improve legibility by reducing the confusion that can occur from having two hands to read. The primary feature here is the "jumping" disc which does not slowly move from one hour to another (but rather jumps a whole disc position).For their jumping hour watch Christopher Ward uses a specially modified Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic with a module they call the JJ001. This means it should work well being based on a reliable work-horse movement. Under the guilloche machine engraved dial sits a large disc that displays the hour indicators using Roman numerals - you usually don't see that as they are often done with Arabic numerals.Christopher Ward uses a 43mm wide steel case for the C6 Harrison. The case is brushed with a rounded and polished bezel. The dial design is good, with little to distract you, but enough decorative elements to keep it visually appealing. The interesting mixture of modern and classic design elements on the dial is also a welcome refresh given that most watches of this nature are stuck in the past when it comes to looks. Initially the C9 will be available with the silvered dial matched to a Louisiana alligator strap. The watch will also be a limited edition. Christopher Ward will only produce 200 pieces of the C9 Harrison Jumping Hour initially and again, price will be $1,585. Look for availability in October of 2011.

Gerald Genta Gefica Safari Watch

I continue to lament the loss of watch industry design and figure-head Gerald Genta who died this year. People tend to remember him most for his classic contributions to the industry - which include 1970s' designs for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Vacheron Constantin Overseas, IWC Ingenieur, and Patek Philippe Nautilus. Granted these were all amazing and endearing designs - though they were however obvious siblings of one another. My colleague at Fratello Watches discusses those here a bit. Personally, I am a bit more interested in his later work. All that is summed up and epitomized in the Gefica Bi-Retro.The modern interpretation of the Gefica concept is a watch I dearly want to add to my collection (and I rarely say things like that about watches that are no longer being made). As time goes on the leadership Genta took in terms of design risk and innovation is clear. For example, right now bronze watches are all hot and in. The Gefica was mostly in bronze when most people laughed at use of the metal. The case was (is) 47mm wide and almost 20mm thick - even in the early 2000s when people thought this was a crazy size. It showed the world that a true modern watch incorporated both an innovative layout of telling the time as well as case design. It relied heavily on titanium, and it has a serious personality all to its own.On top of that the design is emotional. Rumor has it that Genta was inspired during a safari in Africa before designing the watch. The Gefica Bi-Retro often has "Safari" in the name and combines a series of design features that have an almost tribal look to them. It is like modern art meets ritualistic drum circle - who else can pull that off?For years I have admired the Gefica almost as an icon. The design was so vivid to me I almost didn't want to disgrace it by wearing it. While the case was designed from the ground up to be ergonomic, you rarely see people wearing these. It really takes a strong personality to match wits with this watch. The classic Gefica from the 1980s was impressive for its design, but this 2000's era Gefica Bi-Retro is a landmark.A few years ago I first encountered a Gerald Genta Gefica Bi-Retro at a watch event and got to put the watch on my wrist for the first time- it was amazing. I was stunned at the quality and level of detail. A watch design like this is really not easy to manufacture. Not only is the dial very complex with many colors and levels, but the case is literally made out of two materials. Most of the case is finely cut bronze, and all the little "balls" around it are applied individually and in titanium.Genta chose bronze because of its patina developing properties. This is a metal that you want to look aged. It goes with the design of the watch and is part of its character. This piece has the charm of aged jeans. Designing a dial to go with this was not likely an easy task. The amazing thing is that the dial of the Gefica doesn't look like the case at all, but still seems to go with it. Here Genta called upon his love for art deco and clean lines. 1920s futuristic and rugged outback never did go together so well (or at all).

Giveaway: Seiko Sportura Kinetic Diver Watch Giveaway

I am excited to offer a fantastic new Seiko watch as the giveaway item this month on This piece has a number of desirable features and a great modern style to it. As part of the Seiko Sportura collection, this is known as the Kinetic Diver ref. SKA511P1 (aka SKA511). This model in steel is 44mm wide and a black colored bezel and steel metal bracelet. It is accompanied by sibling variants the Seiko SKA509P1 as well as the SKA511P2.The Sportura Kinetic Diver is water resistant to 200 meters and has an AR coated sapphire crystal. I've had the pleasure of handling these and they are just great. One very important feature that you should known about is the special ratcheting diver's extension clasp. This offers the ability to micro-adjust the bracelet on the fly for loosening or tightening it up - a great feature! Inside the watch is the Seiko Kinetic Quartz caliber 5M62 (rotor in the watch automatically recharges the battery inside). Retail price is $595 and you can enter for a change to win one below.To Enter You Must: 1. Comment on this post below ( not Facebook or elsewhere you might see this article) before the giveaway is over with your valid e-mail address where required. In the body of your comment mention whether you would prefer a Seiko Kinetic watch powered by movement or a Seiko Solar watch powered by light.2. Be a pal. If possible, Facebook friend/fan all or any of the following:Friend me on Facebook Like on FacebookLike Seiko Watches on FacebookWant articles automatically sent to you via e-mail? Sign up here:3. Wait until the giveaway is over on October 31st, 2011 for the winner to be chosen at random.A couple of basic rules. You can only enter once. You must comment with a valid e-mail address where you can be reached. Your comment must be confirmed and approved. You must complete the objectives to be considered. You are responsible for providing your contact shipping information if you are chosen. Shipping restrictions to non US entrants may apply based on sponsor's policies. Giveaway watch selection based on sponsor's inventory and watch availability. All comments made after the end of the giveaway period will not be considered. For the full terms and conditions, please click here.Good luck, and thanks to Seiko the sponsor of this Sportura Kinetic Diver watch giveaway !

Jorg Gray JG3700 Watches

One of Jorg Gray’s new for 2011 models is the JG3700 collection that comes in both three-hand and chronograph models. For an interesting watch under $1,000 Jorg Gray offers a lot of good choices. Visually interesting though still classic in their proportions the JG3700 watch collection is an interesting range.One of the nicest elements of the design is how the Italian calf-leather strap is fitted to case. This integrated look is always a bonus. The case is 45mm wide in steel and water resistant to 100 meters. Some models are polished while others are polished and then done in IP black. The crystal is one of those mineral glasses coated in sapphire. Different brands have different names for this, but the idea is to offer the scratch resistance of an all sapphire crystal in a less expensive watch.Aside from the case the three-hand and chronograph models have totally different dials. Each has Swiss movements – ISA for the three-hand, and Ronda for the chronograph. The three-hand model is available in both a dark all-black model with rose gold toned hand and hour indicators, and a light white model with black hands for legibility. On several occasions I mentioned the importance of high dial contrast to Jorg Gray which they have taken to heart.One interesting thing on the dial is their interpretation of the “open” date window display on the three-hand model. The window is large enough to show more than just the current date, but small enough to only fully show the current date. This should help to reduce the confusion sometimes accompanying date windows of this style.Even if you don’t like the dials you can’t call them boring. Jorg Gray wanted to add as much decorative interest as possible. There are various textures and polish styles on each version. I like the circular Geneva stripes on the outer dial of the three-hand model. On the chronograph you have a dial with mostly Clos du Paris pyramids on the face. Jorg Gray really liked skeletonized hands, which you’ll see in these models - though I tend to like the style of the hands on the chronograph models better.Jorg Gray places “Swiss Movement” on the dial to identify the origin of the movements. Problem is that the placement of the phrase is asymmetric and throws off the balance of the dial a bit. You see the term “Swiss Made” is phrase with two words that are about the same size. So if you split them up on the dial at the bottom they allow for the dial to be symmetrical. “Swiss Movement” on the other hands is made up of words with very different sizes. Placement on the dial is as seen here with the full phrase. As a fix many brands instead used the shortened phrase “Swiss Movt.” Balance restored! Jorg Gray might want to think about using that shortened phrase moving forward to further refine the dial style of this and other watches.Both the three-hand and chronograph version of the JG3700 have their appeal and I like the color palette choices. These are inherently simple watches with contemporary designs and some welcome character that is often devoid in watches of this type. Price for the three-hand JG3700 model is $595 and $795 for the chronograph model.

URWERK UR-110 ZrN Torpedo Champagne Supernova Watch

While this isn't the all-black UR-110 Torperdo watch from URWERK (that I discussed hands-on here), this is a special limited edition version closer to that with a black coated dial and caseback. The original version was in naked titanium. It looked interesting but many people claimed that it looked a bit unfinished. Eagerly awaiting a black-coated model, URWERK has now presented this UR-110 ZrN Torpedo model to us. The black coated dial does look very nice - especially with its red and electric green elements. Rather than a black case front, it is now titanium coated with Zirconium Nitride (ZrN).The result is a color that looks a bit like champagne. Because of this URWERK calls the watch the Torpedo "Champagne Supernova." With such a lofty title, I do hope that the watch does not live up to its highly destructive name. Imagine the bubbles and pieces of cork being hurled millions of light years in each direction.Limited to just 12 pieces the UR-110 ZrN Torpedo Champagne Supernova will be available at just four retail locations around the world. Price is $135,000 (105,000 Swiss Francs).Technical Specifications UR-110 ZrN TorpedoAn édition Spéciale of just 12 pieces available exclusively from Chronopassion (Paris), Marcus (London), The Hour Glass (Singapore) and Westime (Los Angeles).CaseGrade 5 titanium with bezel in 316L sandblasted stainless steel treated with *Zirconium NitrideDimensions: 47mm x 51mm x 16mmTwo-position winding crown with coverWater resistance: Pressure tested to 3 ATMMovementCalibre: UR 9.01 self-windingBalance: MonometallicJewels: 46Frequency: 28,800v/h, 4HzBalance spring: FlatPower: Single mainspring barrelPower reserve: 39 hoursWinding system: Unidirectional winding rotor coupled to twin turbinesFinish: Circular graining and diamond polishingChamfered and polished screw headsIndicationsRevolving satellite complication with rotating hour/minute modules mounted on planetary gearsControl Board: Day/Night indicator; “Oil Change” indicator and running seconds*Please note that ZrN (Zirconium Nitride) is an industrial treatment that can result in variations in and the color/hue on the bezel and between individual models.

Giveaway: MARCH LA.B AM1 40 Black Automatic Watch

This month on aBlogtoRead.com you can enter to win a really interesting watch from MARCH LA.B. Proprietors of modern watches with a 1960's aesthetic, these watches can be summed up by explaining that they are designed by a hip Frenchman who has a penchant for classic American muscle cars. Up for grabs is an undeniably interesting watch in their AM1 collection.This particular model is 40mm wide in steel with a black dial and matching black lizard strap. The seconds hands is a cool racing green and the crystal on the back of the case showing them movement is also colored green. There is just a little bit more green on the uniquely designed crown. This model features a Swiss ETA 2892 automatic movement, but you can check out a previous review I did of a smaller version of the AM1 with a quartz movement here. Price for the MARCH LA.B AM1 40 Black Automatic watch is $2,295 and you can enter for a chance to win one below.To Enter You Must: 1. Comment on this post below (on, not Facebook or elsewhere you might see this article) before the giveaway is over with your valid e-mail address where required. In the body of your comment mention your favorite watch from the 1960s (and if you don't have one then your favorite piece in MARCH LA.B's current collection).2. Be a pal. If possible, Facebook friend/fan all or any of the following:Fan on Facebook Like on FacebookLike MARCH LA.B Watches on FacebookWant articles automatically sent to you via e-mail? Sign up here:3. Wait until the giveaway is over on November 30th, 2011 for the winner to be chosen at random.A couple of basic rules. You can only enter once. You must comment with a valid e-mail address where you can be reached. Your comment must be confirmed and approved. You must complete the objectives to be considered. You are responsible for providing your contact shipping information if you are chosen. Shipping restrictions to non US entrants may apply based on sponsor's policies. Giveaway watch selection based on sponsor's inventory and watch availability. All comments made after the end of the giveaway period will not be considered. For the full terms and conditions, please click here.Good luck, and thanks to MARCH LA.B the sponsor of this AM1 40 Automatic watch giveaway here!

Schofield Signalman GMT Watches

For a while I was talking to Giles Ellis as he was in the midst of starting a watch brand. It was interesting to see yet another independent watch brand thrust themselves along supported by one enthusiastic founder faced with a number of challenges. Ellis, and Englishman, wanted a watch that reflected his tastes and ideals. For him Schofield is a true Gentleman's brand and offers the types of watches he wants to hear. He has great admiration for both the historic and contemporary English watch makers that are helping to bring horological street cred back to the UK.Schofield's first pieces are called the Signalman. Two watches, both limited editions, that are offered in a polished steel or matte DLC coated black steel case. The case is pretty interesting and unfortunately doesn't come across super well in these images. I will try to do some hands-on stuff in the future. It is 44mm wide and produced locally in Britain.? While not a diver per se, the watch is water resistant to 500 meters and has a AR coated sapphire crystal.Signalman refers to a lighthouse. There is actually an engraving of one on the rear of the watch. The shape of the case as I recall is based on a special light used in a powerful lighthouse in England. The dial of the Signalman pieces are well done, and I think Giles spent due time polishing the design. Hands are a good length and it is very legible. There is applied SuperLumiNova for lume.Not wanting to offer a simple three-hand dialed watch to start, the Signalman GMT watch is imbued with both a subsidiary GMT hand as well as a power reserve indicator (and the date). Schofield nicely designed the power reserve indicator to look linear - something I admire as I tend to not like most of those fan-shaped indicators that can screw up the look of an otherwise balanced dial. Symmetry is king here, and I am a loyal servant of that rule.Powering the Signalman GMT is a Swiss Soprod caliber 9335 automatic movement. It has a power reserve of 42 hours and I believe the GMT hand is adjusted in one hour increments with an inset case pusher. One of Schofield's intended special offerings is a lot of nice straps. They are 24mm wide and will come in a host of styles. Both limited edition pieces the Signalman GMT will be limited to 300 pieces while the DLC version will be limited to 100 pieces. More models to come after that as I understand. Prices will be 2,465 and 2,765 British Pounds (plus VAT if applicable). The brand will be showing at the Salon QP where they will be officially launched.Technical specifications for the Signalman GMT PR and DLC GMT watches:Limited edition to 300 pieces or 100 pieces for the DLC model.Automatic Swiss Soprod 9335 movement, 31 Jewels, 28,800 bph (4hz).Decoration: C?tes de Genève, perlage, Rhodium plated, blued screws.Power Reserve: minimum of 42 hours, displayed at 12 o’clock.GMT display at 6 o’clock, set via push button at 4:30 o’clock.Water resistant to 500 metres.Antimagnetic movement holder.Signalman case: 44mm diameter, mirror polish stainless steel or microbille DLC.Dial: on two levels, applied numerals, Super-Luminova C1.Sapphire crystal: domed, anti-reflective coating on the inside.Strap: special edition, water resistant black shark-skin, lined with green calf.Buckle: curved, polished stainless steel, engraved, screw in.

Hublot La Cle Du Temps Watch Hands-On

Does the key of time hold the key to time? Depends on how you look at it. A few years ago Mathias Buttet created a weird watch movement capable of speeding up and slowing down time, and then automatically return the dial to the normal time. Poetically the movement had a lot of value, though practically it had next to none. What it did however do was offer a unique design opportunity to see how one might create a timepiece around this concept. This is the third try.The first watch to use this complex vertical tourbillon based movement was a company called Horus that made a boat style watch out of it called the Ultramarinum. I believe Horus is now defunct. Then Mathias decided to use the movement in one of his own watches for the BNB Confrerie Horlogerie in a watch called the La Clef (with an "f") du Temps. I actually got to play with this incredible odd watch hands-on for myself. Mathias explained to me that it was designed using the look of the movie character Predator's head. Fair enough. BNB is not defunct. Mr. Buttet with his risk taking and creativity is now at Hublot running the movement making and designing arm. With Mr. Biver's guidance and the Hublot DNA, I think that Mathias finally found his groove.Early this year I wrote about this watch that now has the name of the Hublot Confrerie La Cle du Temps - and now I offer you a hands-on experience of an almost ready for production model of the watch. Priced at over $300,000 this isn't a watch that is made to make money. It is make as a concept, a passion play of design and movement making designed to stimulate the imagination and offer Hublot a creative outlet. With pieces such as this coming from Hublot on a regular basis, they are more or less the premiere brand right now that is releasing experimental futuristic designs and movements. Chalk up to a Biver + Buttet power relationship.On the wrist the watch actually looks a bit smaller than its massive visual stature might suggest. A lot of it is in black rubber and black metal to emphasis the luminous green elements on the dial. If I didn't know better I would say this that watch looked like one of the coolest movie props around. It just has a distinct Hollywood vibe to it.?This is also the watch Mathias himself has been wearing on his own wrist the last few times I have seen him. The dial has been meticulously designed by Mr. Buttet to be more legible than before, but also much more futuristic. Facing toward you on your wrist is a massive gaping maw of what is a vertical tourbillon staring at you. To operate the watch you have just two large crowns - one on each side of the case. It doesn't even need to the tell the time to look cool.Buttet seemed to realize that the function to speed up and slow down time was more or less a gimmick. The watch doesn't focus too much on this element. In fact, that function might not be there and you probably wouldn't notice. I see it as more of a "my watch should entertain me when I am bored feature." The information you see more is the time and power reserve for the five days of energy the La Cle du Temps movement stores. Everything about the watch is about experimental design.I did mention that it was comfortable to wear - which is true. I would love to walk around a watch-hungry city in Asia and see what people think. Most of the time I would endeavor to discuss the little details in a watch such as the materials it was made out of and its dimensions. In this instance I am not even going to bother. Why? It is totally immaterial to one's decision to buy it. "Shame it is 50mm wide versus 48mm wide, that really would have pushed my decision to purchase over the ledge." Really not what is at issue here. The sad thing is that this watch isn't likely to get you laid as much as it should. You are more likely to get a Star Trek convention fan aroused with this on your wrist than you are that hottie in a one-piece mini dress at the club who can only see a few pieces of the watch glow in the dark in front of her. Ten minutes into your conversation on what this watch does, she has slipped into a thought trance on what all future conversations with you are going to be like.At least you'll know that it is cool. Isn't that enough for you? Hublot will make just 50 pieces of the La Cle Du Temps for the world to digest. If I don't see Mathias wearing one of these on a regular basis I will be just a bit disappointed. His next invention should be a watch that works on speeding up and slowing down the tempo in people talking to you. Wouldn't you like conversations with your parents to happens four times faster?

Citizen Eco-Drive Satellite Wave Watch Hands-On

Much to the chagrin of Casio and Seiko, one of the most talked about and anticipated Japanese watches of 2011 was this limited edition Eco-Drive Satellite watch from Citizen. Upped to being a limited edition of 990 pieces, this rather pricey timepiece dazzles with design and technology. The future is all about the East while the West seems to be obsessed with the past.I first discussed this Citizen Eco-Drive Satellite Wave watch here after seeing its debut. With the watch now released I got some hands-on time with one of the production pieces (thanks to Arizona Fine Time, a Citizen dealer). The final watch is rather impressive and very true to the concept version. It was unclear whether or not Citizen was going to actually make too many of these, but due to demand they decided a limited edition run was due. Having said that, I hear murmurs that Citizen will be not only using this special technology in future watches, but the Eco-Drive Satellite Wave will be followed-up with other versions that have different color tones (possibly next year).So what is this Eco-Drive satellite tech all about? I discussed it more thoroughly in the link above. Basically Citizen has developed a system for having the watch manually connect with GPS satellites to sync the exact time no matter where you are in the world. Previously watches of this theme were only able to connect with the radio signals of atomic clocks. But you needed to be in the vicinity of said atomic clocks - and those don't at all cover the entire world. The idea here is that you will be able to have the precise time, in a movement that is charged by the light, no matter where you are (on this planet).The idea sounds great but according to some it hasn't quite lived up to the hype. This is due to one critical drawback - that being that the watch will not automatically sync with the satellites. To sync with them you need to manually tell the watch you are ready to receive signals (and you probably need to be outdoors). My guess is that this is due battery power issues and that it doesn't have the power to constantly check for signals. I am sure that this is being looked into and hopefully will be improved in future renditions of the Eco-Drive Satellite movement concept. In this watch is Citizen's H990 caliber quartz movement.A lot of people are disappointed by the lack of automatic time synchronization in the Eco-Drive Satellite Wave watch. I understand that. The idea that the watch, like your mobile phone would always ensure it is showing the right time, no matter where you are is an easy thing to lust for. It is coming, but we are just not there yet. The issue almost always boils down to power consumption. If you are OK with manually telling the watch to sync the time, then you should be OK with this piece.At 48mm wide the case is mega-sized with a mega personality. The case itself is beautiful. As I understand it Citizen has developed some special way of doing a ceramic coating over steel. Whatever it is, the shiny gray case material is fantastic looking, especially with all those green inserts. Over the dial is a very dome crystal that reflect a lot of light. I would have liked for Citizen to bathe it in AR coating (especially at this price). One major complaint about the dial is the lack of luminant. For a sport looking watch it is really a shame to have no backlight or lume coated parts on the dial.Attached to the case is that green and black strap that needs to be cut to size. I tend to not like these, but once properly sized they world out. Citizen will charge you $80 bucks for a new one I hear. The overall fit and finish of the case and watch is impressive. Everyone also seems to like the presentation box it comes with. With some drawbacks that might be serious or trivial based on your needs, the Citizen Eco-Drive Satellite Wave wave is still very impressive and cool. No doubt it signals upcoming technologies and still shows that the Japanese have the total edge when it comes to producing the tech elite of the watch world. Price for the limited edition Eco-Drive Satellite Wave watch is a steep $3,800.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chronomter Watch Review

I recently learned an interesting fact regarding the history of the Omega Seamaster collection. The Seamaster and Seamaster Planet Oceans that we know today are hardy tool watches suitable for diving, James Bond, and overall feeling like high-function instruments that is made really well. You'd think these pieces started out as serious dive watches. That isn't the case actually. When the first Seamaster watches came out, Omega had other pieces in its collection that were more focused on sport. The Seamaster was meant to be a fashionable watch that one could wear up in the Hamptons while playing with their kids and not worry if it got splashed on. It was meant to be a luxury watch from day one.Overtime the Seamaster became an icon and important watch for Omega - especially as the brand continued to focus on a range of important high-intensity activities from racing to diving, and everything else where sturdy and reliable watches were needed (not to mention space travel). Flash-forward to now and we have an incredibly wide range of Seamaster watches, and its higher-end cousin the Seamaster Planet Ocean. For review I am checking out two 2011 Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chronometer watches which well represent where the collection and brand are at today.In short the Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chronometer of today comes in over 20 references, is available in 42mm wide or 45.5mm wide cases, and is available with blue or black dials with various color differences. Inside is an in-house made Omega movement, and it is a comfortable beauty on the wrist.The "Co-Axial Chronometer" part of the watch name separates these Planet Ocean watches from others that do not contain the Omega produced caliber 8500 movements. The other new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean watches with in-house made movements are the Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chronometer Chronograph watches that contain Omega's caliber 9300 automatic chronograph movements. Those are excellent pieces, with fantastic movements, but I personally like my dive watches three-handed. For a super chrono, Omega has the Speedmaster which now also comes with the 9300 movement.I got to visit Omega and see the caliber 8500 movements being produced. Debuted in 2007, these large diameter movements are made for big watches and are amazing instruments that come from one of the most sophisticated timepiece movement assembly lines ever created. The need for such a production line is due to the fact that Omega must (relatively speaking) mass produce these - but with a very high quality output. They use a very cool automated assembly line that combines mostly human labor with robots that help with precision tasks. It takes about a full day to assemble and test just one 8500 movement. The movements are then sent to COSC for Chronometer testing, which takes another three weeks.Aside from looking great, the 8500 has a few notable facts that any potential buyer would like to know about. Let me first add that Omega has the movements displayed through sapphire casebacks on the Seamaster Planet Ocean watches. This is no simple task as the watches still need to be water resistant to 600 meters. Usually dive watches have solid casebacks - but not here. The 8500 has dual mainspring barrels and a power reserve of about 60 hours. It has a DLC coated black balance wheel that is free sprung, and of course a co-axial escapement. The automatic rotor winds the movement when spinning in both directions, and when adjusting the time, you can set the hours in one hour increments to make it easy while traveling. I wasn't sure about this before, but the 8500 movement also is equipped with a silicon balance spring which should be a major plus. Oh, and there is also the 8501 movement which is the same but with am 18k rose gold rotor and balance wheel bridge. You'll find that in Seamaster PO watches with gold cases mostly.The movement is great and certainly a major selling point of the watch. The wavy polished lines on the movement surfaces are very tasteful. For review I checked out two Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean watches. Both 45.5mm wide and one with the steel case and black dial, and the other in the titanium case with a blue dial. Both had ceramic bezels, but the blue model has Omega's very special Liquid Metal ceramic bezel (explained more here). Omega also makes smaller 42mm wide models of the Seamaster PO. This is a good thing for the "world market," but I like the larger sized 45.5mm wide models best myself. It helps that the Seamaster PO case design features shorter lugs which helps keep the watch look good on smaller sized wrists.The steel case is very solid and well-made, but also heavy. On the steel bracelet this is a hefty watch. Not an issue for me at all, but some will prefer a lighter timepiece. Those people have two options. First they can opt for Omega's excellent rubber strap with deployment clasp, or there is the titanium Seamaster PO with the blue dial. This one features either a titanium bracelet or rubber clasp. Let me again say that the rubber they use is among the best I've ever had. Wonderful look and feel, and the clasp works really nicely.

Ebel Classic 100

Well, it is officially official - I am sick of "retro, heritage, vintage, classic, original, etc..." watches. Which is funny because I actually like the look of this Ebel Classic 100 timepiece. I just wish all the "old watch' branding would disappear. It is a fine piece on its own, I don't care if it has an historic look to it.Since the economic crisis brands of all types and sizes have been releasing watches that look to the past for inspiration, or are just copies of older watches. The reasons and effects of this are varied and complex, something I don't wish to get into for the 100th time. Brands... look. If you want to make watches using old designs, I don't care. Just don't throw it in my face and talk about innovation when there is none. Seriously, are times so depressing that we cannot have contemporary design?This Ebel Classic 100 is a fine example of a 40mm wide steel-cased watch. The delicate leaf-shaped hands really make it nice, and Ebel has always excelled in terms of their case designs. While a bit hard to tell here, the "polished pebble" philosophy the Ebel uses in making their cases is even apparent in this rather simple case. The bezel is polished but the rest of the case is brushed.Do you like how the prototype model Ebel showed me a while back watch matched with a red galuchat strap? I liked the watch then and like it now, but seeing it just reminds me of how stale the industry is in terms of their designs. It isn't 1940, or 1950, or 19 anything. It is 2011 and I would like to see more watches that remind me of that. While a nice vintage or retro piece is welcome once in a while, the entire industry has just beaten the concept to death. Like I said, at the very least when marketing a watch with a retro style - just make that aspect more subtle. Or are people really on such a hunt for all things vintage?Sociologically speaking this "past craving" happens when there are severally depressed economic and cultural times. People look with real or collective nostalgia back to times when thing were "better." Real or not, our look in to the past seems rosy. Especially when the future does not seem bright. The watch industry really didn't start the retro craze, they just adopted in their own way. I just think they pushed it a little too hard. Do it with grace people.Ebel, I am sorry you had to be connected to this little rant of mine. Your Classic 100 does help remind people that your brand is 100 years old. I think your original logo is very cool by the way. As a limited edition of 1911 pieces (the year the brand started)< the Classic 100 will contain a Swiss ETA 2892 automatic movement. The dial is silver-toned with some applied hour markers and very legible. Again, it is all about those nice hands. Oh, and unless you really want the stingray strap, the final version will come on a black alligator strap.See Ebel watches on eBay here.See Ebel watches on Amazon here.

Girard-Perregaux ww.tc Cabinet de Curiosités Limited Edition Watch

Did you really like (and want) the special piece unique watch that Girard-Perregaux had auctioned at the 2011 Only Watch Auction? If so (and you weren't that one person to get it), then you sort of have another chance. Aside from the smoked sapphire crystal dial, this limited edition of just five pieces Girard-Perregaux ww.tc Cabinet de Curiosités watch has the same cool style with the white ceramic and titanium case. This is essentially the white version of the ww.tc Shadow watch that is part of their regular production right now. They do ceramic cases very well.I wonder what this would look like on a while strap? How about a black and white striped NATO strap.... interesting thoughts. Limited to just five pieces, this watch is part of a unique series of relationships. The ww.tc Cabinet de Curiosities will be available exclusively at a concept store called Browns in London. I am not familiar with it, but it is said to be a lot like Colette in Paris.Girard-Perregaux is actually working with a guy named Thomas Erber, who produced the Cabinet de Curiosities event. Last year it was actually at Colette, and it will be held at Browns this year in London. This watch (among whatever else will be there) will only be available from November 21st - December 23rd.The ww.tc Cabinet de Curiosities watch is 43mm wide and contains the Girard-Perregaux in-house made caliber GP03378 automatic chronograph movement. This fantastic movement has a flyback chronograph, time, date, and special 24 hour disc that is used with a rotating bezel to offer a world time function. The overall ww.tc collection is among the finest world time watches around. I do quite enjoy this special version with the white ceramic case. I saw the Only Watch 2011 model in person and it looked fantastic. Not sure how this smoked dial version will turn out, but it should be cool as long as legibility is maintained. How much will this limited edition of five ww.tc Cabinet of Curiosities watch by Girard-Perregaux watch cost? Price is 17,900 British Pounds.

Hands-on with the Shabaka watch was very interesting

I have been fascinated by the Art Deco-themed watch by Jean Dunand since it came out a few years ago. Jean Dunand is an interesting super-high-end brand that produces exclusively "piece unique" creations. On my wrist is an 18k white gold Shabaka with a baguette diamond-lined bezel.I think the Shabaka originally came out in 2007, but new pieces are slowly being made. The movement is entirely made and designed by Christophe Claret. In fact, all Jean Dunand watches (Tourbillon Orbital, Palace) have movements done by Christophe Claret. Until Mr. Claret had his own brand, Jean Dunand was basically it.The Shabaka watch design is a combination of Art Deco and modern Egyptian, if that latter term even makes sense. There is something very strong and architectural about the design, like a fortress on the wrist. The size of the watch is 44mm wide, I believe, but it is very tall. The many angles of the case coalesce with a dial design that is highly unique. Here, Claret went all out with rollers and discs.Inside the watch is Christophe Claret caliber CLA88QPRM. I like trying to decode the movement name. The CLA obviously means Claret. The numbers involve what movement it is, either in some chronological or formal scheme. "QPRM" relates to the functionality, which is probably "quantieme perpetual repetition minutes." Or something like that. As the name implies, the movement has a perpetual calendar, moon-phase indicator, and minute repeater. Oh, and the time--if you can spot the hands. On the rear of the watch you can see the movement. Part of it says "power reserve indicator", so I guess you can add that function to the list. It actually works by offering a view to the mainspring to see how tightly wound it is.Based on a few of his watches, I have deduced that Christophe Claret has a pet-peeve about pushers that you can accidentally press--but at the same time he prefers against inset pushers. So what he did for this watch was engineer little lever-locks on the underside of the case that apply to the pushers that adjust the calendar functions. Clever, right? However, you will see one inset pusher on the side of the watch which is likely for the leap year adjustment.The dial of the watch shows the date, month and day-of-the-week on red aluminum rollers. The concept is very cool and was later applied in other ways to watches such as those Claret designed for Maitres du Temps (the Chapter One). Activating the minute repeater, a Christopher Claret specialty, requires pulling down on the lever on the left side of the case.The imposing look of the watch is multiplied by its incredible exclusivity and rarity. It looks pretty cool on the wrist as well, if you can pull it off. This model with diamonds is new, of course. One like it may be made in 18k rose gold as well. The way Jean Dunand often offers a new "piece unique" is by producing the same watch but with minor color or material differences. Still, they are produced in an extremely limited fashion. The Shabaka watch, named after the Egyptian pharaoh, with its diamond bezel is priced at around $500,000.

Vulcain 50s President’s Watch Hands-On

Yup, this watch is called the "50s President's Watch." While that sounds a bit funny, let me explain. In 1953 Vulcain gave a Cricket Alarm watch to President Harry Truman. Since then they have given watches to all the US Presidents (yea, I know the issues about gifting things to the president, but there is some way around it... sorta). In honor of this tradition Vulcain created the 50s President's Watch, which has a retro design hearkening back to the originals.The design is slick and actually feels very retro in your hand. Not in a "this watch is old" kinda watch, but more like "this watch has some charmingly retro design aspects to it." The bigger size (in context) gives the watch a sort of "larger than life" feel where traditional design elements are seemingly exaggerated. I almost want to call it a retro cartoon watch, but I don't think that will convey the feel the watch gives. It is a high-quality piece with a cool movement.In the late 1940s Vulcain released their first Cricket Alarm watch movement. The mechanical caliber offered an alarm complication that was good. Good enough to wake you up. I have heard a lot of alarms complications in both quartz and mechanical watches. Most (not all) are crap. You can barely hear them, and many are a pain to use. Over the years Vulcain has refined the Cricket caliber, and it is among the best mechanical alarms on the market. Just a few years ago they released an automatic version of the Cricket. Just such a movement is contained inside of all the 50s President's Watches. It is the Vulcain Cricket Calibre V-21.The good looking movement is a larger caliber with two barrels. Once I believe is used for the alarm. Winding the crown one way winds the barrel for the time and winding it the other way winds the alarm barrel. The alarm is set with the crown and activated with the pusher above the crown. The dial has a dedicated alarm hand. The alarm is loud and sounds like a crazy mechanical toy going off. It lasts for a full 20 seconds which is longer than it sounds.Apparently designing the Cricket caliber to be an automatic was a challenge. I believe that has a lot to do with the alarm function, but Vulcain did it very successfully. One things about the movement that I don't quite understand is its relative slow rate of 18,000 bph. It has a power reserve of 42 hours.The 50s President's Watch is 42mm wide but feels larger. It comes with a steel or 18k rose gold case and there are currently five models. I love the retro looking domed dials and sunburst polished faces. For a traditional styled watch this piece is still quite masculine. The hands and applied hour markers are strong looking and the neat integration between the alligator strap and the case is appreciated. There is an additional sense of strength in the texture engraved into the side of the crown. Like an old acrylic crystal, the sapphire is domed. To match the style of the Vulcain "V" logo, there is a metal section through the sapphire display caseback of the same shape.Water resistance for the case is 50 meters. Acceptable in a watch like this as the alarm noise actually needs to travel from the movement through the case. Trust me, water resistance and watches that are meant to emit sound do not play well together for the most part. I am quite impressed with how Vulcain mixes these two needs.The down side to mechanical alarms are two-fold. First, you need to wind them back up each time the alarm goes off. Second, you cannot set them precisely to the minute. As you can see, you more or less try to line the hand up as close as possible to when you wan it to go off, but it isn't perfect. Sadly... so sadly, there no snooze function. However for most little daily things you need reminders for, alarms like this work just fine and Vulcain makes among the best of them. Price for the steel models is 8,370 Swiss Francs while the 18k rose gold pieces are 22,680 Swiss Francs.

Omega Seamaster 1948 Co-Axial Chronometer Watch

Driving in London is bad enough, but during the 2012 Summer Olympics it is going to be even worse. Omega will be there. Omega is always there. I hope they have a few private helicopters for the event (or hotels within walking distance of ALL the events). As the long-time official timer of the Olympics, Omega also gets to release special watch models each two years for the games. These Omega Olympics watches are often fantastic, and for 2012 Olympics they have devised a retro piece.Most Omega Olympics themed watches are based on their modern collection but this is a vintage-themed model. It is based on classic designs from the late 1940s. Specifically 1948 - which is apparently the last year London held the summer Olympics. According to Omega is it also the debut year of the Seamaster watch. What a coincidence!I have a hunch that there is going to be yet another watch for the 2012 Olympics that Omega will release closer to the games. The release of this Omega Seamaster 1948 Co-Axial Chronometer just seems early - although it fits the bill well for a proper limited edition model. Actually to be specific, the watch was debuted exactly one year before the Olympic games are sent to begin in the summer of 2012.Looking at the original watch you can see how similar the design is and where Omega drew influence for this recreation model. The new piece will be limited to 1,948 pieces - a number that should surprise nobody. The case is 39mm wide in steel with an 18k yellow gold caseback. The case has a sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 120 meters. The caseback has the London 2012 Olympics logo done in relief. The case is very old-timey sport with an easy to read dial and lovely detailing all over the face. You know what really surprises me? Just how faithful Omega has been to the Original dial. Just look at the 2011 Seamaster Planet Ocean watch and tell me just how much of the original DNA is in it? A lot actually.This new limited edition Omega Seamaster 1948 Co-Axial Chronometer watch is larger than the original with an automatic Co-Axial movement. It has also been COSC Chronometer certified, using the in-house made caliber 2022 automatic movement. Aside from the 18k gold caseback, Omega adds additional gold on the dial. The applied Omega logo and hour indicators are all done in 18k white gold. The result is very subdued and appealing, just what many retro-watch lovers are looking for.Omega matches the finely conservative watch to a black alligator strap. The combination of history, style, and Olympics fandom will help this be a very popular limited edition for Omega in honor of the upcoming games. Price is said to be relatively reasonable at $6,800.