How To Know If Your Diamond Jewelry Is Real Or Fake

If you are shopping for a very costly piece of jewelry, and want to make a worthwhile investment, it can be kind of stressful, but you can make it fun. There are lots of different things used when making jewelry, which are all worth different amounts of money. A shopper who hasn't done their homework can wind up overpaying for a piece. Read on if you want some great advice about purchasing jewelry.

Most jewelry is intended to last for a life time. Get jewelry from a jeweler with a good reputation to be sure that it's of high-quality. Jewelry should display exemplary craftsmanship and be well-made. A jeweler should know about each piece he sells, including the person that made it, the origin of precious stones or other materials and other history, such as previous owners for antique or estate pieces. Take your time when selecting a high-quality piece if you want it to last you for a long time.

When you purchase jewelery ensure you know what you are buying. Gemstones come in three different varieties: natural, imitation and synthetic. While natural and synthetic stones are the real deal, imitation stones are made to look like a real gemstone, but could be anything from colored glass to plastic. Synthetic gems come from a lab and natural ones are found in the ground.

When you're shopping for jewelry, keep your budget in mind. A beautiful ring will soon lose its allure if you have placed yourself in a significant amount of debt just to acquire it. For a young couple, a cheaper ring is a better decision. It can always be upgraded later when they are more financially stable.

You can untangle delicate necklaces that have become knotted. While it can be frustrating untangling metal necklaces, consider using plastic wrap. Put your knotted chains on the plastic wrap and cover with a little baby oil. Use some needles to untangle. When you are done, use soap and water to wash them.

Give the jewelry a little test drive and wear it for a little bit to see if it is comfortable and lays right. This can also help you see whether the piece is durable enough to last.

When buying jewelry, think about what kind of stone would be right. Try to choose a stone that meshes well with your taste or personality. Also, consider what looks good on you. Choose neutral colors that will easily match any outfit you decide to wear. There is no point in buying something that is not functional.

If you are trying to sell jewelry on the Internet, make sure that you present it in an attractive way. This is very important since customers cannot handle the jewelry in an online transaction. Make sure the background behind the jewelry in the photograph is bland and boring, so as not to distract the viewer's attention away from the piece itself.

Work out a comfortable budget before going to purchase a piece of jewelry. This will give you a firm plan and help to keep you focused on what you really want and need.

If jewelry is handled properly, it can be worth a great deal, both in monetary value and in the emotions that are tied up in it. Learn to properly care for your valuable jewelry, to protect not only your investment, but the memories it evokes. There's always more to learn, and as long as you keep discovering about the delight of jewelry, there'll be more to enjoy.

Replica Hermes Bracelet

MB&F Boucheron JwlryMachine Watch

For the final exciting iteration of the Horological Machine No. 3, MB&F has partnered with world-renowned Boucheron to create the JwlryMachine. Swiss MB&F who celebrates the art of the machine combines their technology with French Boucheron who celebrates the art of jewelry. The result is an incredible work of three-dimensional art that will be made to order for those who want to add this stunning luxury to their collection.The HM3 watch should require no introduction. It originally came out in two styles which I discussed here, was then offered in another limited edition form as the HM3 Frog here, and you can read a review of mine on the HM3 Sidewinder here.MB&F is known to exchange talent with other highly-respected watch designers. If you recall, Alain Silberstein lent his talents for the creation of a limited edition HM2.2 Black Box watch that I displayed here. They have indicated to me that such collaborations are not only fun, but highly inspiring - so expect more of these in the future.Boucheron is a brand I've discussed before. For me, they are most well-known for their almost whimsical-style jewelry that is as fun as it is beautiful. Coincidentally enough, I wrote a piece on them that also featured a purple owl when talking about their Bestiary Ronde Seconde Folle collection of watches here. Why owls? The purple owl is a common symbol of the night and of mystery. Owls also have additional benefit of having an engaging visage. Even in jewelry form its large eyes are expressive - creating a highly palpable face. Out of all symbols and figures, the human mind is most drawn to faces. Human faces first, and likely animal faces next. The larger the eyes, the more we are drawn to the face. No wonder we are so fascinated with owls.The JwlryMachine is a mechanical bird. Better stated, the JwlryMachine is a bejeweled bird with mechanical innards. The watch is like an MB&F with Boucheron clothing - and in this instance the tailor was very good. MB&F was actually surprised at how smoothly this partnership went. According them, Boucheron was quickly and easily able to take the HM3 and work their Parisian magic on it. The specially modified case is still in 18k gold (white or pink) and titanium, but with its new avian and feather inspired shape. The clear sapphire crystal of the open movement windows on the front are no longer used to cover the movement - but they are still used for the cylinders that tell the time. MB&F worked with Boucheron to create the feathered look of the owl's breast and the "eyes" over the time columns in two special colors.That is right, the JwlryMachine will come in at least two versions. The displayed purple version, as well as a pink version. Plus, because the watches are made to order, MB&F and Boucheron promise that almost any color the client can imagine will be feasibly available. I personally like to call the purple version the "Night Owl." Because the Night Owl is also a character from Watchmen, and because that character had a ship named Archimedes that looked like an owl. Thus, I placed those images in the post. The Night Owl, as being a major gadget guy himself, might like a JwlryMachine for extravagant nights out on the town.Amethyst is used extensively in the JwlryMachine Purple. You'll find it as the large cabochon style eyes at the top of the hour and minute indicator cylinders, as well as over the open movement. The crystal there is specially engraved to look like feathers. What is really cool, is that it is semi transparent. Meaning you can still see the 22k gold battle ax style automatic rotor spinning underneath it. Another amethyst is used as a cabochon on the crown. The watch has about 41 carats of amethyst. Aside from amethyst you'll find a few precious stones on the complex case. These include about a carat of diamonds, as well as over 5 carats of mixed blue and purple sapphires.The JwlryMachine Pink has a few changes, but remains more or less the same. First, the case is in 18k pink gold versus white gold.?? Instead of amethyst, the watch design uses pink toned quartz and rubellite. It also has diamonds, and a mix of pink, purple, and blue sapphires. This should be a nice "day owl" compliment to the night owl.I have to say that the combined effort of MB&F and Boucheron is really rewarding. The two respected brands have melded their talents well. and the "JwlryMachine" might have an 'interesting' name but a face anyone can love. The HM3 Frog proved that this was a design meant for eyes, and this is a version of the watch that really proves it. The HM3 JwrlyMachine retains the ability to tell the time, but the date complication has been probably partially obstructed due to the design. I think that is an acceptable trade-off for this fantastic three-dimensional machine and jewelry sculpture. The watch will come on a purple (or otherwise) toned alligator strap with a 18k gold and titanium deployment clasp.Where can you get one? How much will it cost. Distribution will be highly limited and watches will be mostly made to order. A few MB&F retailers will carry them, but for the most part the watches will be available through Boucheron boutiques around the world. Prices for the MB&F HM3 JwlryMachine will start at $215,000 and depend on the version as well as exchange rates. This isn't the MB&F watch we used to. You don't see precious or semi-precious stones on their watches. The JwlryMachine is certainly a change of pace for the luxury machine style watch MB&F is known for producing. Some people might see that as an issue, but I could care less about the thematic departure. This is simply a revision of their aesthetic as dreamed up by Boucheron, and a beautiful item of interest for all people to enjoy. The real question is, can a man pull off wear it? I am imagining a custom model in all black and while with yellow eyes. That would work.Tech specs from MB&F:JWLRYMACHINE  Movement:Three-dimensional horological engine designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor;Girard-Perregaux oscillator and gearBalance oscillating at 28,800 bph. 22K rose gold battle-axe shaped ‘mystery’ automatic winding rotorHour and minutes information transmitted via ceramic ball bearings to laser-cut hands.Number of jewels: 36 (all functional)Number of components: 304 Functions:Hour and day/night indicator on one coneMinutes on second coneDate around the movementCase:JWLRYMACHINE, Purple: 18K White Gold/Titanium and AmethystBreast made of an engraved amethyst: 35.27KEyes made of two cabochon amethysts: 6.34KDiamonds: approx. 0.96KBlue and purple sapphires: approx. 5.17KScrewed-down crown with cabochon amethyst: 0.33KJWLRYMACHINE, Pink: 18K Pink Gold/Titanium and QuartzBreast made of an engraved quartz: 32.71KEyes made of two cabochon rubellite: 7.88KDiamonds: approx. 0.96KPink, purple and blue and purple sapphires: approx. 5.17KScrewed-down crown with cabochon rubellite: 0.33KSapphire crystals: Cones and both display backs with anti-reflective treatment on both faces. Strap & Buckle:Hand-stitched alligator or lizard strap with 18K Gold and Titanium custom designed deployment buckle.

Breguet Type XXII Watch

On the list of watches that I would brutally and without remorse murder for is the Breguet Transatlantique Type XX and possibly the Type XXI (in the right color scheme). Representing a less brutally expensive Breguet, the Type XX and XXI are wonderful sport watches with a beauty that is deserving of the Breguet name. For 2010 Breguet has released the Type XXII watch into the mix. Known more directly as the Type XXII Flyback Chronograph GMT 3880 ST, the watch is also meant as a 50th anniversary piece for the first of these model which were originally made for the French naval air force (see the limited edition collection that stemmed from that anniversary here). A beautiful watch by most angles, is gets so complex and hard to understand, the passion for me is lost. It isn't that I am a moron and need only "simple" watches, it is rather that I don't like to look at a dial and immediately get confused. Even while having Breguet show me the watch, we were unclear as to how to operate it. Which then inspires that dependable catch-all phrase "this is just a semi-functional sample piece." Sure... In a nutshell, I think that what they are trying to do with the watch is great, but it comes across as being confusing. Not just in operation, but as in "why even do that?" Sort of like the answer to a question no one asked.The Type XXII watch has some very cool things about it, both visually and technically. Of interest is the very high beat movement that operates at 72,000 vph (vibrations per hour). This is very, very fast. Most nice movements operated at about 28,000, and the Zenith El Primero goes at about 36,000. So up to 72,000 (10 hertz) is a major step up. This means that the chronograph for example can be used to measure very small fractions of a second. It is so fast, that the chronograph seconds hand rotates the entire dial in just 30 seconds. Breguet says this allows the watch to measure time with "twice the precision." Which is another discussion unto itself, but you can measure up to 1/20 of a second precision with this baby. Though really, if you want that much precision when timing with a watch, get yourself a quartz Casio.OK, so before I talk about the prettiness of the piece, let's talk functionality. Inside the watch is an automatic Breguet 589F movement with a silicon escapement, silicon balance-spring, and 45 hours of power reserve. These latter two silicon parts are a major part of the high beat ability of the movement. Functions include the time, date, a 60 minute chronograph, and a GMT hand that comes with a synchronized 24 hour hand. Let's talk about the GMT hand first. The lower subdial at 6 o'clock has a large 12 hour hand which is the GMT hand for a second timezone. It has a synchronized 24 hour hand at 3 o'clock so that you can know whether it is AM or PM in that second timezone. If the AM/PM indication was so important, wouldn't it just make sense to have the second timezone hand in 24 hour format? So much of the dial is taken up but this redundancy. Sure, "no one else has done this before." Maybe for good reason. I don't know why the lauded Breguet had to "innovate" in this department. I can see the Seiko engineers laughing about stuff like this.Then you have the chronograph, a poor overly complex 60 minute chronograph. So the main dial has two hands. The red chronograph seconds hand, and the white hand with the red arrow tip. The flyback chronograph seconds hand moves around the dial once each 30 seconds. In order to know whether it is on its first or second pass for that minute, you can look at the linear-style dial sitting under 12 o'clock (which goes from 0-60). Leave it to Breguet to make using a chronograph too quirky to be fun. I am sure the device is fun to watch, but hard to feasibly use for any serious purposes. You read the elapsed minutes via the white centrally mounted hand with the red tip - which uses the main dial for this function. The subdial at 9 o'clock is for the seconds for the main time.So basically what Breguet did is force people who buy this watch to rethink what certain dials are used for. Nothing on the watch feels intuitive. You see certain scales, and placements of dials on the watch and want it to do one thing, when in reality is does another. I see two thin hands on the main dial, and I think rattrapante. I see a linear scale style dial and I think power reserve indicator. I see a synchronized 24 hour hands and I think it is for the main time, not the second time zone. There is just so much to remember with the Type 22 (XXII) watch. I do further fear that the movement is too complex. I could be totally wrong, but I think that it will take Breguet a while to work the kinks out of this complex little mechanical dancing number.Visually the dial looks great. Cool looking, and easy to read (for the time that is). The multi-level dial is easy on the eyes, and the hands and numerals are easy to read. The 44mm steel case is beautiful and complex (water resistant to 100 meters), building on the?? classic complexity of the Type XX and XXI designs. Case has a rotating diver's style bezel and a very handsome look. Check out the two-tone crossed stitching on the leather strap. Is that fancy looking or what?I just want the dial and functions of the watch to be more straight forward. I am all about complexity and complications, but make it matter! Here, I just feel like they wanted to do something different. The complex, high beat movement inside could be emphasized better, and the functionality needs to be seriously streamlined. This watch just didn't feel thought-out enough. The sporty line from Breguet deserves better, something more inspired to be worn and used, rather than to have mere bragging rights on paper. I'd gladly wear the Breguet Type XXII Flyback Chronograph GMT watch because it looks good. But I would abstain from using its functions out of protest!?? Price is in the $18,200 range.See Breguet watches on eBay here.See Breguet watches on Amazon here.            Rare Breguet Solar Powered Watch Winder Reference EC3310$1,200.00Time Remaining: 45mBuy It Now for only: $1,750.00Buy It Now | Bid now

LUM-TEC Combat B7 Watch Review

LUM-TEC recently sponsored a Combat B series watch giveaway on aBlogtoRead.com and I was impressed with results. It was a record month for giveaway entrants, and tons of people seemed to swoon over what LUM-TEC has to offer. There is something about LUM-TEC watches that drives passion in watch lovers and novices alike. Almost since the brand's inception, the Combat B series has been part of their collection. A more modern interpretation of the classic coined-edge bezel fleiger - this watch has been offered in a ton of limited edition versions. This is the Combat B7 model.Each LUM-TEC watch is a limited edition. I've reviewed their watches before, and most of you know and like them. LUM-TEC is a homegrown US brand hailing out of Ohio. In my opinion, the key to their success has been to closely listen to what the American watch buyer wants. The last 20 years have seen an overall drop in American's consumption of timepieces. There are a great many reasons for that, so please don't just blame mobile phones. Part of that has to do with Swiss brands losing touch with what Americans want, and Japanese brands being able to come in and win over value-conscious Americans with good, cheap watches. 20 years of Casio G-Shock makes a lot of people more than hesitant to buy a $5,000 Swiss timepiece.But I digress. LUM-TEC came on the scene with timepieces in the $300 - $400 range and proved that Americans are quite interested in professional looking analog watches that has a "functional promise" personality. Not most LUM-TEC watches are bit more (but so are the quality), but continue the same tradition of activity and professional style watches for everyday use. The design is modern and straight forward. There is an edginess to them, but there is also a handsome utilitarian quality to these timepieces. You know what? LUM-TEC watches are the American pickup trucks of the watch industry. I just realized that - I feel like I had an epiphany.... and Europeans do not make good pickup trucks.The Combat B7?? is a lot like today's Jeep Wrangler. It certainly has a military vibe to it, but is refined looking, and focuses subliminally suggesting to you activities you should perform while wearing it. Put one on and look at the high-tech looking carbon fiber dial?? in the dark matte gray case and tell me you don't just want to go straight in to a group of trees and get lost? The steel case is 43mm wide and PVD coated to a dark gray, but not quite black. It has a satin finish to it. The crown is large, and voila... I finally have in my possession a LUM-TEC watch with a signed logo on the crown. What prevented this before was LUM-TEC not yet deciding on a good logo in this size.With highly curved lugs the watch is comfy. This is especially true with the 22mm wide NATO style nylon strap that gives it a snug fit. LUM-TEC throws in two straps. One in black, and one in this olive green. I opted for the green pretty quickly because I love the military feel of it. Of course, you can use your own strap is the bulky style of a NATO strap doesn't suit you for all occasions. What about a rubber strap? or perhaps a distressed black leather (even pigskin) strap with white contrast stitching. That might be interesting. NATO straps get some getting used to, but offer two major advantages. First is that if one pin between lugs breaks you won't lose the watch. Second, is that the style of the buckle places it to the side. Thus all you have is a smooth and flat piece of strap on the bottom of your wrist. This is good for when your wrist hits things underneath it - and would be uncomfortable or damage other watches.LUM-TEC rates the watch as 100 meters of water resistance. The watch has a sapphire crystal with double AR coating, and nice looking real carbon fiber dial. I don't much like most carbon fiber dials, but this is one of the exceptions. Basically, the problem with most carbon fiber dials is that its almost 3D look hides elements on the face like hands and markers. When you can preserve high contrast, then a carbon fiber dial can look great. In this instance the hour markers and hands contrast quite well - for high performance legibility and look. LUM-TEC uses a no nonsense set of hour markers, minute markers and a full set of Arabic numerals. This makes the watch dead easy to read, and thankfully straight forward. It might have the pretty minimalism of a Panerai, but will beat it in terms of reading accuracy any day. One issue I have with the dial is the size of the hands. They just aren't quite large enough for my taste, and strict rules of watch dial proportions. Further compounding the issues it the style of hands LUM-TEC uses are outlined in black, which makes the hands look even shorter due to the fact that much of the time what you see if the white, not the black part of the hands. This doesn't effect legibility too much, but strictly speaking, the hands should be longer. I do like the splash of color on the dial with the red title of the watch.One other small complaint about the dial is the date window. I like that LUM-TEC experimented with making it a round hole, versus a square one, but it is literally a little hole drilled into the dial.

Hublot King Power Ayrton Senna Limited Edition Watches

In 1994 a terrible accident during an F1 race in Italy caused Brazilian driver Ayrton Senna to die. I believe that he was the last person to die during a Formula 1 race, and has been a testament to the needs of caution and safety in the work of super-fast racing circuits. Since his death, lots of new safety regulations and technology have been implemented to make the world of competitive racing safer.Recently an event was held in his honor, to raise money for charity via the Instituto Ayrton Senna. Hublot, a long time partner with many drivers as well as the official timepiece maker of Formula One was there to offer two new limited edition timepieces. The event would have been Senna's 50th birthday, and at the event was a debut of a new documentary film about his life called "Senna." The film is being carried by Paramount Pictures, having been developed by Working Title and Universal together. Might be something we find in theaters soon.The two limited edition Ayrton Senna watches from Hublot are quite interesting. Hublot here has been able to showcase a few new things. The first of which are all carbon-fiber versions of their King Power watch cases. Often times cases will have carbon fiber inserts, but theses 48mm wide cases are in all carbon fiber, though part of Hublot's typical sandwich construction.?? This in a sense is Hublot's answer to Audemars Piguet's forged carbon cases on some of their Royal Oak Offshore watches. While the cases are carbon fiber, the bezels are in matte ceramic and made to look like disc brakes. The screws and crown are PVD black titanium.As I said, there will be two Hublot Senna watches. The first is the "Hublot King Power Ayrton Senna." In almost all black, the watch is 48mm wide with a black Nomex (with yellow stitching) strap, and yellow elements in the hands and hour indicators. The skeletonized dials shows off part of the HUB4247 automatic movement - which is neat. For instance, the column wheel for the chronograph is right there on the dial. Despite the skeletonized interior of the dial, it is still easy to read given the large applied hour indicators. The movement has the time, split second 30 minute column-wheel based chronograph, and a power reserve indicator. This latter feature is particularly handsome as done in color dots. Hublot placed Senna's signature in yellow, right over the subsidiary seconds dial. The watch is extremely cool looking with 500 pieces available.I really do look forward to checking out these all carbon fiber Hublot cases. I am curious as to just how light they are, as well as the tactile feel they have under the fingers. These pieces also seem to have very intricate pushers. For example the start and stop pusher for the chronograph has a Senna logo placed in it, while the Hublot logo is int the crown. The execution of the piece is very thorough, and somehow avoids feeling cheesy.The second of the two limited edition pieces is much more limited and has another interesting quality. Limited to just 10 pieces, the "Hublot King Power Tourbillon Ayrton Senna" has a different caseback for each piece. If you look at the image gallery here I show you the 10 casebacks. Each is an image from a different point in Senna's life from the early 1980s to 1993. The pictures are emotionally rich points in Senna's driving career and were chosen by members of his family specially for the timepieces. The individual images on the caseback crystal are a nice idea from Hublot, and certainly will add desirability to the piece for Senna and F1 collectors.Inside the King Power Tourbillon Ayrton Senna is a tourbillon movement made entirely in-house at Hublot in its Confrerie Horlogere department (that is responsible for making Hublot's most complex haute horology movements). The HUB6300 movement has a flying tourbillon, column-wheel based monopusher chronograph, power reserve indicator, and time with subsidiary seconds dial. The flying tourbillon captures your attention in the lower part of the dial, with the subsidials being up top - once again you can see the exposed column wheel at the top of the dial in this instance. Like the split-second chrono model, there is a dot style power reserve indicator. The colors for the power reserve indicators are even applied in color SuperLumiNova. So with all the colors on the dial, these must look like spaceships glowing at night. The HUB6300 movement has a power reserve of up to 120 hours.The Tourbillon Ayrton Senna is really quite a show stopper. I quite like the in-house made movement and the design. The yellow strap is also Nomex but here has green and blue stitching - clearly a signal to the Brazilian flag. As a testament to Ayrton Senna's life, regretful death, and continuing legacy - these two limited edition Hublot watches are well done, and the special casebacks on the tourbillon model feel meaningful. Hublot and F1 collectors will be hard pressed to pass these up.

Zenith El Primero Tourbillon Watch

This is actually a tourbillon watch I would wear daily. Zenith's new El Primero collection of watches is a thing of beauty. I have been eying them for a while, enjoying how they look on the wrist. They have now announced a tourbillon version of it.Now most of the time when a company takes a new collection and shoves in a tourbillon I hardly take real notice, but in this instance Zenith has put together a satisfying set of feature that you could wear each day - assuming you can afford it of course.Let's pretend for a second that you can. There are two versions of the watch available. Each comes in a 44mm wide case. One is steel with a black and silver dial, and the other is in 18k rose gold with a silver and gold dial. The steel is my choice simply because I like the colors more - but each is quite lovely.Using the good looking new El Primero watch style case the the movement used is Zenith in-house made 4035D automatic tourbillon chronograph movement. Being a high-beat El Primero movement it runs at 36,000bpm and has a power reserve of 50 hours. The high frequency of the watch gives it added accuracy over other watches, especially tourbillons. Thus, you have something pretty accurate, and it is also an automatic. The chronograph functions are neatly integrated on the dial in an asymmetrical fashion. The subdials are thankfully really easy to read.Zenith uses a new date display system around the tourbillon window. A small disc with a window in it is used to indicate the date, as it frames the exposed tourbillon window that doubles as a subsidiary seconds dial. The retro functional feel of the dial is what sells me on the looks of it. Not ultra "exciting" at first, the style and easy to enjoy looks of the dial do grow on you.Turn the watch over and you'll find a handsome exposed movement through the sapphire crystal caseback window. I like the Zenith star logo cut into the automatic rotor. Back on the dial the hour indicators and hands are great. Very complex looking, the hour markers are applied and have SuperLumiNova on them. Hands are sized well and easy to read. You also forget with how simple it is all put together that this is a serious piece of haute horology. I would totally wear one daily. Price is $49,700 for the steel version and $66,800 for the 18k gold version.See Zenith watches on eBay here.See Zenith watches on Amazon here.            Movado Gold Filled Museum Watch w Swiss Zenith 17J Mechanical Movement$50.00 (1 Bid)

Swiss Army Victorinox Dive Master 500 Mechanical Watch Review

Swiss Army Victorinox watches are very important to the watch industry in my opinion. For many people not familiar with the greater breadth of offerings from the watch industry, these Swiss timepieces are a creamy options when wanting a piece that combines good design, sporty styling, and solid value. As a kid I grew up knowing about Swiss Army watches, and not so secretly wanted one. I recall in college an friend of mine who had received one as a gift wearing it around (as I admired it). He wasn't at all a watch person, but liked its chunky substantial feel, and dead-easy to read dial. Swiss Army for many people represent a good choice for a nice watch, and the brands hold's this reputation well.It all starts with the logo. The little Swiss flag made into a strong looking shield. It is a slight modification of the logo of the actual Swiss Military. A not so subtle reminder of the value of the Swiss watch industry, and the strength of the brand. In my opinion, this is one of the most clever logos in the watch industry. Being attractive, while at the same time communicating the values of the brand and the Swiss timepiece industry. This even persists despite the ironic nature of the Swiss army itself - which is more or less a peace keeping force. So you have a brand built around the idea of a durable high-activity timepieces, but with the name of a lack-luster military power. Switzerland is a well-known neutral country and has a small armed forces unit that never makes the news. When was the last time you actually heard of the Swiss army? Google "Swiss Army" and the watch brand holds the first few positions. If anything, the best thing that happened to the Swiss military was Swiss Army watches. Interestingly enough, according to Wikipedia, the Swiss army has mandatory services for males when they reach age 19. Though no one has ever mentioned this to me while I was in Switzerland.The vision of the Swiss army has been over taken by watches, and we can thank Swiss Army for that. They add the Victorinox name in there because no brand can sustain a trademark with a name like "Swiss Army." The success of the brand has yielded many competitors who have similar names and symbols. These include Wenger and Swiss Military Watches. But I digress.A few years ago Swiss Army Victorinox decided to ramp up (substantially) its presence in the mechanical watch market. The idea was to take the core look and values of the brand, and produce higher-end pieces. As such, the brand would retain its core market of quartz based timepieces, and supplement it with mechanical watches that has the same feeling, but with upgraded cases, components, and of course movements. The positive association with the brand would make it easy for a generation of Swiss Army watch lovers to "graduate" to mechanical watches from their quartz timepieces. Staying in the same brand would be of course good for Swiss Army.So you started to see mechanical watches. Often in limited editions models, Swiss Army has now offers full (non-limited) collections of Mechanical watches that are quite impressive. Many of them feel like more polished and better conceived versions of the military-esque mechanical watches that Hamilton has been offering for years. Hamilton just sometimes offers totally weird stuff that I don't understand. I appreciate the experimentation, but Swiss Army seems to retain a more conservative quality to their mechanical watches that I appreciate.A few years ago the Swiss Army Dive Master collection of watches came out to my delight. From the first time I saw them I loved the quartz based dive watches that came in cool gunmetal gray cases. As I pointed out above, Swiss Army released a limited edition mechanical version of the Dive Master, and eventually a full line of mechanical diver watches called the Dive Master 500 Mecha (or Mechanical) collection.Dial design differed from the quartz models. It is a matter of taste which you prefer. The dials for the Mecha models are a bit more intricate, but there is a bold simplicity to the quartz ones that I like.?? New for 2010 is this blue colored version of the Dive Master 500

CX Swiss Military Hurricane Watch Review

One of my favorite watches from last year was the CX Swiss Military Watch 20,000 Feet Diver (that I reviewed here). The titanium bubble cased watch was a hit for me, being over the top but totally a tool watch at the same time. While it is a behemoth to wear, it is fun, and well-done. Not to mention quite unique.CX Swiss Military watches tend to be hit and miss for me, but I am usually impressed by their limited edition models. These are often much more interesting than their standard collection, and feature a lot more design and attention by CX. The newest limited edition watch that CX Swiss Military released after the 20,000 Feet diver is this Hurricane timepiece. Not a diving style watch, this one is pointed more at the skies. Aviator themed in most all regards, the watch once again is a little over the top, but in a fun way, and still has a lot of functional substance.It is quite hard to sum up the watch in a few words. I see it as a different sort of "showy" pilot watch. Like a re-imagined Breitling or something. CX Swiss Military was careful to give the Hurricane some hallmark "pilot watch" features. These include a chronograph on a busy dial, large sized face, and of course, a rotating slide-rule bezel. My favorite design feature is the hand on the subsidiary seconds dial that is shaped like a propeller. Sure it doesn't spin very fast. but the effect is cool nonetheless.The dial design is an interesting mix between busy and not too cluttered. CX uses a sort of "quilted texture" dial. In my opinion this looks nicest in black. Though the watch does come with three other colored dials and it is hard to say how the dial style looks on each of those. Detailing on the dial is pleasing. The large applied hour markers are easy to spot, and the polished metal rings around the subdials is attractive. The only two issues I have with the dial are the hands and the lume. Even CX admits that the hands are small. They aren't unreadable, but small. CX felt that hands this size would not interfere too much with reading the subdials. This is true, but to be honest you are going to be reading the time way more than you are going to be reading the chronograph. The lume on the dial is OK, but I think that CX could have put a bit more on there.Around the dial is the slide-rule inner ring on the navigational bezel. The bezel is a bit tough to turn, but at least it doesn't slide around too easily. I like the design of it, being relatively thin in comparison to the size of the dial. It is also neat how the bezel tapers in, when looked at from the side.The Hurricane is a large watch at 47mm wide in steel. Heavy feeling at 150 grams, but unweildly. Which is amusingly ironic as it is named after a nimble World War II era English fighter plane named the "Hurricane." The finishing and colors on the case are great though. CX Swiss Military uses a black DLC coating application over the steel that gives it a very hard surface and a nice glossy look. In there are also red colored elements. These include rings and segments on the crown and pusher, as well as red paint on the screws on the back of the case. Never seen red screws like that before. The case itself is water resistant to 200 meters, has screw in pushers, is anti-magnetic, and has a sapphire crystal.This chronograph watch uses a COSC Chronometer certified Valjoux 7750 automatic movement. Not much more to say about that. Workhorse chronograph with the added value of the COSC certification. CX pairs the watch to a Swiss made treated leather strap (with sort of a suede like feel to it) that has red contrast stitching. The strap was a bit large for my smaller wrists. CX does however use special easy to remove pins to change out the strap. I had mine on a NATO strap for a while that had it looking quite cool.CX Swiss Military made 50 pieces of the Hurricane watch in each of the four dial colors (for a total of 200 watches in this limited edition). I really think the style of this watch will appeal to some people. DLC pilot watches are hard to find, and there is a good polish to the style of this timepiece. Price isn't bad either. About $2,000 (based on a 1,995 Swiss Francs price). You can get yourself one here.

Perrelet Regulator Retrograde Watch

The people at Perrelet are at it again, dancing the complication jig. This new Perrelet Regulator Retrograde watch mixes a few complications in a way that (to my knowledge) hasn't been done before. You have a retrograde hour display, regulator style separation between the hours, minutes, and seconds (that occupies the main dial), and a periphery style date display. The balance of the elements is quite good. Plus, there is likely to one one (or two) people in the world who have been dreaming for a watch that combines all these complications together.So if no one has been clamoring for a watch like this, what is the point? Well, to look cool. Watches with various different hands and types of dials are visually fascinating. People will look at the piece and ask "what exactly is going on there?" You can see how Perrelet split the watch in to two personalities (as is typical for them to do these days). There is the slightly larger sporty model in titanium that is 43.5mm wide, and a more formal version that is 42mm wide in a steel or gold case that is slightly more dressy in fashion. The watches have sapphire crystals and are water resistant to 100 meters (in titanium) and 50 meters (in steel or gold).Perrelet has succeeding in giving the watch a sort of art meets gadget look. I think that will appeal to enough people. A watch like this is also good for turning heads, asking people to check out what Perrelet has been up to. Powering the watch is their P-221 movement which is exclusive to Perrelet. The movement is an automatic with an exhibition caseback with a view to it on the back of the case. To change the date you need to press a small pusher on the side of the case.The steel model (ref. A1041/4) has a silvered dial and also comes with a black dial. It is matched to a black alligator strap and will retail for $8,275. The same model in gold (Ref A3014/5) will also have gold on the dial and retail for $20,250. In sporty titanium the watch has a different look and a rubber strap with a retail price of $9,200. Look for them soon.Tech specs from Perrelet:Regulator Retrograde: A1041/4 and A3014/5Movement: Automatic P-221, exclusive module Open-worked, exclusive decorated Perrelet rotor Power Reserve: 40 hours Vibrations per hour: 28’800 (4Hz) Rubies: 35 Case: ?? 42 mm Case material: A1041/4: Stainless Steel A3014/5: Pink gold (4N) 18ct Anti-glare sapphire crystal (front & back) Water resistance: 5 ATM Dial A1041/4: Silvered white A3014/5: Black Strap: Black alligator Stainless steel deployment buckle Public price: Steel A1041/4: CHF 8’200.— / Euro 5’900.— / US$ 8’275.— Gold A3014/5: CHF 20’500.— / Euro 14’700.— / US$ 20’250.—Regulator Retrograde Titanium: A5001/2Movement: Automatic P-221, exclusive module Open-worked, exclusive decorated Perrelet rotor Power Reserve: 40 hours Vibrations per hour: 28’800 (4Hz) Rubies: 35 Case: ?? 43.5 mm Case material: Titanium Anti-glare sapphire crystal (front & back) Water resistance: 10 ATM Dial: Black and anthracite, luminous indices Strap: Natural black rubber strap Titanium deployment buckle Public price

Sarpaneva Korona Moonshine Watch

Helsinki, Finland. Not the typical place for watch makers, but it is where the wild Stepan Sarpaneva calls home and creates his vividly interesting timepieces creations. Playing with his popular moon face, Stepan creates a new watch that utterly features the now popularized serious looking artful lunar gaze. Called the Korona Moonshine, the watch tells the time via a single rotating disc that moves around the periphery of the dial.You read the time in the lower region of the dial where a window opens up to reveal the moving disc. Right at the 6 o'clock position is a small arrow that is used in conjunction with indicators on the disc to tell the time. It isn't the most precise way to tell the time, but the trade-off might be worth it to have this "face" on your wrist.The time telling disc itself is covered in lume for night viewing. I think this is where the "shine" in moonshine comes in. It can be interpreted that the moon above the little window metaphorically provides the shine. Well, half of the disc is lumed. It is a 24 hour disc set up in four quadrants. Two of them contain lume. There are also stars on the disc. Why? because much of the time when a moon is placed on a watch dial, it is a accompanied by a few stars.Sarpaneva's "Korona" case is still sexy after a few years and various iterations of the watch. Stepan's design for the Korona case is quite good, offering visual interest and necessary symmetry. There is a shot here of a prototype of the watch on Stepan Sarpaneva's own wrist. You can see how well the Korona style case fits with the Moonshine concept.A watch like this is really about making a statement - much more so than other watches. Telling the time is second, and this piece is a testament to the enjoyment that many people have had looking at this more sober rendition of an anthropomorphized moon face. I first discussed these concept and pushed the issue further when writing about Sarpaneva here.This is a rebel watch in a world of Swiss and French domination - though it does have the polished design that the larger high-end watch industry is known to value. There will be three versions of the watch. Two in steel, with one of those being DLC coated in black. There will also be an 18k red gold model available. The case itself is 42mm thick, with an AR coated sapphire crystal and water resistant to 50 meters.Inside the watch is a modified Soprod A-10 automatic movement that Stepan likes to use. You can see the movement through a skeletonized case back. Really a fantastic piece with a lot of hand-built character. You'll be impressed by Sarpaneva's larger offerings if you are new to the brand. Will the Korona Moonshine be your first Sarpaneva? Not likely. You are more likely to go with another Korona model where you can get the same moon face (smaller) on a slightly more traditional looking watch. Though for those are are very "sold" on the Sarpaneva concept, then a piece like this is a sure winner. It has a design with the requisite attention for details that Sarpaneva has been known for, as well as a craziness and attention grabbing spirit that its owners are often looking for.

MARCH LA.B AM 1 Watch Review

Recently I was flipping through GQ magazine's annual "Style Guide." A special issue of their magazine dedicated to helping helpless male souls "dress better" (not that the advice is all bad, but it is extremely declarative and one-dimensional - though I do realize that assertive, aggressively consultative content does sell copies).?? Thankfully the issue had a section on watches, but as it turned out the section was written by fashion editors. Oh oh!. Actually, not everything they said was bad, though it left little room for 'argument.' They more or less offered a "one-size-fits-all" approach to recommending watches - which is clearly not in tune with the universe of timepiece options out there. When it came down to it they suggested getting your self a small, thin, gold watch.'Small' seemed to be an overarching tone in the guide. It was clearly marked for novices. Not once I believe, was the term "movement' mentioned. Why is it that fashion editors in New York are afraid of large watches? They seemed to make one exception for 44mm wide Panerai timepieces, which are clearly not very large by today's standards. Anyhow, looks like the fashion elite edict that small is in. This brings me to the point at hand, my review of the MARCH LA.B AM 1 watch that is 37mm wide. A segment of the watch wearing population seems to be arguing that large it out, some people are yelling "long live the large watch." I don't know why people need to assert the existence or denial of a trend. The only person who should care what the size of your watch is... well, is you. I personally prefer "larger" watches. Not because I think it is 'in,' but because that is what I like. I have always like that. But I have sported smaller pieces in my life, and I don't have a problem with it. Can't small and large watches live together in harmony... in one's timepiece collection?The AM 1 from newer watch brand MARCH LA.B is not a large watch by any means. The brand will be offering a 40mm wide version of it soon. So consider this review of the 37mm wide size and anything larger than that which might come out soon. I am usually very "generous in tone" with new brands, but I don't need to be with MARCH LA.B. As a new brand they have a lot of things right. Design is very cohesive and well put together. Quality is impressive, and the overall presentation is well thought out.I sat down with the brand's co-founder Jerome Jacques Marie Mageto discuss the concept of the brand and the design. The story in interesting. In a nutshell, the founders are from France, and Jerome is the design. They previously worked on eye and watches for Quicksilver. They wanted to team up and do their own watch brand, with Jerome being the design. Jerome, while French, has had a lifelong affinity for American muscle cars (especially the Mustang), and the era which birthed muscle cars. Jerome wanted to design an elegant timepiece that was still masculine and evoked the muscle car era. Something that a well-dressed GTO Judge driver might wear with a leather jacket cira 1969. The AM 1 isn't exactly a "muscle watch," but from a design and thematic standpoint I see the brand's point and position.The AM 1 is their major model in the MARCH LA.B collection - and it is a stand up design. Retro and still totally unique. Jerome has proved himself to be an adept watch designer. The firm was also able to team up with some stellar Swiss suppliers. Which accounts for the quality of the watches being quite high. Little things that new brands often get wrong are very well done on the AM 1. Examples include the very nicely engineered bracelet as well as pristine dial. Nods to the past are bountiful. Including the style of clasp on the strap as well as the domed sapphire-coated mineral crystal meant to look like an acrylic crystal. The design of the dial itself is totally passable as something spacey from 1967. Case further is water resistant to 100 meters.More enjoyable little detains include the design of the crown - which is unique with its textured surface and green logo inlay (a touch more green on the dial periphery). The watch case is a very fluid design with good contrast polish and an enjoyable shape. Also note the very cool looking engraving on the back of the case that is a top with watch gears inside of it. This is one of the neatest pictographic watch logos I have seen in a while.The standard AM 1 has a Swiss Ronda 517 quartz movement in it, but the brand does offer some version with mechanical movements. More mechanical movements to come in the future as I understand. While it is another topic all together MARCH LA.B has a special relationship with Carroll Shelby, and will offer a limited edition 40mm wide special version of the AM 1 with a automatic mechanical movement that I discuss here. The Ronda 517 is a nice three hand with day/date movement. MARCH LA.B uses custom discs for the day and date with a special font - another nice detail.The designer has really proved himself here. Not just in concept, but as well as execution. I have seen plenty of watches that look killer on paper, only to let down in real-life. Jerome Mage being a man with an eye for style and detail, wearing a watch like this is as much about the design, as it is buying into the talent of Mr. Mage. Ideally he has the power to cast spells with a name like that.The gap-less steel bracelet that is great looking and comfortable is really a selling point of the AM 1 - though it is available with leather straps (and in PVD gold for the case). For people who enjoy a 37mm wide watch, the AM 1 is really nice on the wrist and well designed. As I say about many timepieces, even if you don't personally like the piece from an aesthetic standpoint, it is hard to argue that it is not a good execution of what it is meant to be. It also makes for a good women's watch for ladies who enjoy the look of it. With a few different dial colors and styles, as well as various strap options, the AM 1 is well-rounded right out of the bag. Like I said. for those who simply can't pull off a 37mm wide size, a 40mm wide versions should be available soon.The AM 1 watch comes in a well-design travel pouch with a green velvet style lining. You can get the entire MARCH LA.B watch collection online via their web store. This specific 37mm AM 1 watch with a steel bracelet and silver dial retains for $1,090, while the entire collection ranges in price from $895 - $1,260.

Perrelet Turbine XL Watch Review

If it is fun and you play with, then it is a toy right? call the novel spinning turbine style disc in this watch what you like - but this is a man's toy of the highest caliber. Does being akin to a toy degrade the feeling of luxury and high-end prestige that Perrelet is going for? No. At least I don't think so. Wealthy guys who stand around with nice watches talking about cars and boats are often looked at by their female companions who simply sigh and say "men and their toys." Most of the high-end stuff we like are actually toys. You know that ultra fast super car you've been eying since before you can drive? The one that goes a lot faster than you can ever legally or practically go? Everything about that car that is above and beyond getting from point A to point B in comfort, is a toy.The same applies to watches. Anything that exists in a timepiece on top of the time telling function is a toy. A bit of ol' fun for the distinguished gentlemen who needs a few play things in his life. I have a feeling that is one of the reasons I love watches so much. You can put on any number of watches and feel like you magically are more like what the watch suggests. Why do you think pilot and dive watches are so successful? It has nothing to do with needs of the world's demanding divers and pilots. These are toys. Well-made, hopefully highly functional, toys.Perrelet created a hell of a fun toy with the original Perrelet Turbine watch, and improved on it with the Turbine XL. It is large, has a more distinctive design and a more turbine-like, turbine style dial. The spinning turbine on the dial serves no functional purpose -but doesn't even pretend to. This is meant to be a pure item of visual entertainment. The evolution of the watch goes back to Perrelet's double rotor concept. Where the automatic rotor on the rear of the watch was connected to another rotor on the watch dial. This signature Perrelet concept turned into this a few years ago. The Turbine XL watch -for effect purposes - no longer has a rotor on the dial that is connected to the rotor in the movement. This allows the turbine on the dial to rotate much more freely (for a cooler effect), than the one in the automatic movement. The movement is the Perrelet P-181, that is a Soprod automatic (that I believe is based on the ETA 2892A2).Movement decoration is nice, but I miss those little signature repeating "Ps" that some other Perrelet watches have. The engraved black rotor is quite cool though. As you can see, the movement is visible through a sapphire display back. Now I get to talk about the case, which I have been waiting to do. This is a marvelously cool case, that is also very comfortable and well made. Most Perrelet Turbine XL models are in titanium, though there is also a gold version available. The titanium models have polished DLC coated steel bezels, while some of the models (such as the orange one here) are in all DLC coated metal. Perrelet uses a very good DLC application process and shape of the watch - while very angular - seems to eludes really sharp to the touch. Like the original Turbine, the crown is inset in the case with a fold out little handle. The system works rather well, but the little fold-out part can be a tiny bit easy to open on its own sometimes.At first I was concerned about the "claws" on the bezel looking strange, but they don't These are very welcome design features which add a more visually interesting quality to the case. The case itself is 50mm wide - the reason for the "XL" part of the name (for reference, the original Perrelet Turbine was 43-44mm wide). This number will likely scare some people, but I urge you not to worry. This watch is 50mm wide, and does not wear like one. The relatively short lugs and thick area between the outer edge of the bezel to the watch dial is thick. This watch wears smaller than 50mm. It certainly feels like a sizable timepiece, but I would never consider it too big. This is a perfect size for such a statement setting timepiece (which is also a fun toy).Perrelet designed the case to be water resistant to 50 meters, and it has a domed, AR coated sapphire crystal over the dial. The very high-grade rubber strap is perfectly integrated into the case design, and is very comfortable. The buckle is in contrast polished titanium. Very good marks from me when it comes to comfort and construction for the Turbine XL.The turbine part of the dial will spin a lot, and if you have one you'll notice yourself playfully oscillating your wrist just to make it spin. If Perrelet sticks with the Turbine concept, as I think they will in the future - the dial and turbine element will improve even more.Now for the dial - the place where the magic happens. First let me say that I love the small details. There is a lot going on here - and Perrelet (along with the watch designer) has done a fantastic job of making the dial both fun and legible. The hands are large and broad - properly sized, and with a colorful seconds hand. On the orange and green models the hands are black on black, with black colored SuperLumiNova. These are harder to see versus the white hands, but are still legible. These are best when you want to show off the dial more than the hands. You can see all of the models here.As such, on the green and orange models, the "turbine" is a mixture of two colors. These blend together when the turbine spins with your wrist's motion and look great. Alternatively, the two models with white hands emphasize telling the time more than showing off the turbine. On those models the turbine is black on black. This is a bit of a shame, as only the person wearing the watch really gets to enjoy the turbine effect. The orange and green watches are more "spectator magnets."Wonderfully there is a complex, sloped chapter ring that sits over the turbine around the dial that helps with reading the time. Not only is the watch face fantastically 3-D, but it is a highly functional watch. This is a necessary feature for men like me who need a healthy amount of justification in their toys in the form of "well it is also a useful tool."Toy or not toy, I love this watch. I wouldn't wear it everyday, but I would wear it enough. The fact that it is a cool, comfortable, and high-end watch makes it an even more fun toy. There are several models in the Perrelet Turbine XL line, and most range from about $6,000 - $6,650. The Limited edition 18k rose gold version will be more at a bit over $25,000.

Giveaway: Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT Watch

I am pretty jealous of who ever will be the winner of this month's giveaway. I have here a Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT watch for your winning pleasure. The C60 Trident was released in late 2010 and came in a range of flavors. The inspiration behind the C60 Trident collection is the widely beloved (and also British) Bremont Supermarine 500. Not everyone can afford a Supermarine, so the C60 Trident is your next best bet. Christopher Ward also offers the C60 Trident in GMT form, and that is what you can win here.This watch is interesting because it borrows from both the Bremont Supermarine and the famous Rolex GMT Master Pan Am - nick-named the Rolex GMT "Pepsi dial."  This Ref. C60-GMT-SRBK  watch is in steel and 42mm wide (water resistant to 300 meters). Inside the watch is a Swiss ETA 2893-2 automatic GMT movement. The watch has a rotating GMT bezel and comes on a leather strap. A fantastic looking timepiece and one of the best available from Christopher Ward at this time. The retail price for this Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT watch is $630. Learn more at Christopher Ward here. For a Chance to win, see below!To Enter You Must: 1. Comment on this post below with your valid e-mail address where required. In the body of your comment mention a very high-end watch that you wish you could afford.2. Be a pal. If possible, Facebook friend/fan all or any of the following:Friend me on Facebook Like aBlogtoRead.com on FacebookWant aBlogtoRead.com articles automatically sent to you via e-mail? Sign up here:3. Wait until the giveaway is over on March 1st, 2011 for the winner to be chosen at random.A couple of basic rules. You can only enter once. You must comment with a valid e-mail address where you can be reached. Your comment must be confirmed and approved. You must complete the objectives to be considered. You are responsible for providing your contact shipping information if you are chosen. Shipping restrictions to non US entrants may apply based on sponsor's policies. Giveaway watch selection based on sponsor's inventory and watch availability. All comments made after the end of the giveaway period will not be considered. For the full terms and conditions, please click here.Good luck, and thanks to Christopher Ward the sponsor of this C60 Trident GMT giveaway!

December Watch Winner Round-Up

During December 2010 you readers had the chance to win not one, but seven timepieces here. I usually ask winners to give me images and a review of the watches, but given that there were a lot of winners for December, I thought it would just be nice to do a pictorial post with "wrist shots." One of the winners is missing as I didn't get shots from them yet - but I will include an image of winner of the Magrette Moana Pacific PVD watch winner ASAP. I am really thrilled that everyone is enjoying their new watches.?? Congrats again to the winners, thanks again to the sponsors, and keep trying in the future if you haven't won a watch yet. I will keep these up as long as you all enjoy them.

We spend time with learned Mr. Jake Ehlirch of - to discuss.. what else but Rolex, and some of the history thereof.Listen to HourTime Show watch podcast episode 54 here.

MB&F HM2 SV Final Edition Watches Hands

These "Final Edition" HM2 Red SV & Black SV watches put the Horological Machine number 2 proudly to rest. MB&F first experimented with the "Sapphire Vision" concept with the original HM2 SV watch that was included in this article here. Using a sapphire plate versus metal as the top of the watch caused a whirlwind of "I want that." MB&F freely admitted that the project probably cost them more than they anticipated given the cost of machining the sapphire plates, but it was worth it for the fans.The original HM2 SV was limited to only 25 pieces. That is a really low amount given how popular the watch was - and it was popular for good reason. The Sapphire Vision offered not only unparalleled views of the movement, but also created a totally new looking surface for a watch that spoke all too well the language of love for watch nerds. So for the last pieces in the HM2 collection to ever be made, MB&F offers just a few more of these sexy Sapphire Visions for us to enjoy.I first spoke about the MB&F HM2 Red SV & Black SV watches here. Visit that article for information on pricing, technical specs, etc... This will be about handling the actual watches, and what it means for the future of MB&F. What I will say right off the bat is that the watch are limited to just 18 pieces each.The black or green colored gaskets really give these watches that extra bit of character that they need to be highly memorable. They are of course there for the functional purposes of water resistance and to keep dust out. For generations we have been interested in looking at watch movements to see how they work. I have a strong feeling that this early desire to peek under a watch's robes influenced watch makers to create such nicely decorated movements. It makes me wonder how some watch makers draw the line between "functional" and "aesthetic." Appreciation of timepieces inherently involves a love of mechanics and gadgetry. To know the items we appreciate are as complicated as our interests helps fuel our ongoing passions. MB&F's founder Max Busser and the team are as much gadgetaholics as they are watch makers. Timepieces such as the HM2 Sapphire Visions are perfect intersections of these two interests.While not the first of its type, the HM2's long, horizontally rectangular case and movement are good to frame. Especially since there are actually two "dials" to show off. This means that gear-work and polished metal are spread out nicely across the watch, suitable for "whole view" of what is under the top plate of the watch. What I am trying to say is that not many watches are sexy looking from each angle. The HM2 benefits from having a design that fits the "exposed" look. Other watches start to look less glamorous when you take their clothes off. According to information given to me from MB&F sometime ago, the sapphire plate over the movement required something like 50-60 hours to machine (for each piece). And many of them break in the machining process. The result is totally worth it though.The HM2 Red SV has an 18k red gold back plate, while the Black SV has a PVD coated titanium back plate. Each model is really nice looking depending on your mood at the time. No doubt that the showy flash of green on the Black SV will appeal to those times when you want your wrist to shout for extra attention. Though that statement is hard to make only for the Black SV, as the Red SV isn't exactly an "under the radar piece."MB&F ensures that the dials are as easy to read on these HM2s as they are on any other HM2 model. The left dial on the watch has the date and moon phase, while the right dial has the time. On the back of the watch you have the spinning "battle axe" style automatic rotor in gold.Technology is slowly starting to catch up to the dreams of ambitious watch makers who want to use materials like sapphire for elements like cases, etc... It wasn't so easy for MB&F to find a supplier to do this, but in the future I think the allure of highly shaped synthetic sapphire crystal will yield new processes to carefully cut the hard crystal. If you recall the HM4 Thunderbolt watch heavily relies on a section of the case being done with a sapphire crystal. I anticipate that in the years to come MB&F will further push the limits of what can be done with sapphire crystal for watch case parts. It would be amazing to have an all sapphire watch case that clearly (and scratchlessly) displays beautifully decorated mechanics on the inside as though the case were a transparent egg.This use of sapphire will trend over to other brands, and I think in the next 10 years synthetic sapphire crystal could become the next interesting material that high-end watch makers will use more. This will become more true when the material is easier to cut and of course, color.Consider MB&F trendsetters in this area, and the HM2 Sapphire Vision watches examples of what can be done when sapphire and watch making come together in harmony. These watches a pain to take pictures of, but seeing them in person is all the "sell" you need. Give em a go at $98,000 a piece.

Fullspot O Clock Watch

Here are some nice looking and very inexpensive Italian watches from Fullspot. Certainly designer, certainly fashion-ey, certainly the opposite of most of what you have in your collection. But actually quite fun. How cheap? Not really sure to be honest as there seems to be two prices. The brand's US site wants $36 per watch, while the Fullspot's Italian site (both have e-commerce components) wants $24.35. With shipping I am not sure how much they are. So, it is either of the two.The company is really not watch enthusiast focused. So don't expect such specifics such as how large the cases are. Seriously, why does this information elude people to include? Fullspot confuses the matter by saying that they come in three sizes. This actually just refers to the strap that come in "small, medium, and large" sizes. The straps have no connectors or clasps. They are silicon based watches with a bracelet like strap. The top of the strap has a casing for the watch - which fits in the case/strap as an insert.The watch itself is in metal and plastic with a crystal. It has a quartz movement and a more or less Movado-simple dial in all white with the "O Clock" logo. The deviously simple system offers the wearer to buy various case/straps and change colors as often as they like. As you can see, the O Clock comes in a ton of different colors. I have to admit they look cool - are there days when you could pull this off? Certainly a great gift item for young people.Fullspot claims that the watches are designed and manufactured in Italy. I doubt the movements are though. While the basic watches are cool enough, the brand just released a line of Disney licensed watches. The collection of five O Clock Disney watches have either Mickey, Minnie, Pluto, or Goofy on the dials. Apparently Fullspot has a hit with the O Clock as they have been extremely popular.                No items matching your keywords were found.

Christophe Claret 21 Blackjack Watch

A new video just released by Christophe Claret finally shows the entire upcoming 21 Blackjack watch - and it is in full action.?? So I should probably take this opportunity to debut the watch to you. You are gonna love this one. This latest wild wonder watch by master watch maker Christophe Claret is imbued with three different casino games, and you can play blackjack with it, as the watch as the dealer. It also lets you play roulette and dice.I first wrote about the Christophe Claret 21 Blackjack watch here with more information on just how excited you should be (and why you can't likely afford it). Now for the full scoop. Once I get my hands on it I will get your minds dirty with Christophe Claret watch porn. The 21 Blackjack is the third watch to bear the Christophe Claret name - as his past involved being the "inside guy," making movement for other brands. First was the Dual Tow from 2010, then the Adagio from 2011, and now the 21 Blackjack also for 2011. The spectacular "gamer's" watch will be part of a limited edition of 21 per version set, and have a six figure price (that specifically is below).When Claret does something, he does it his way. You can also hear Casino voice favorite Frank Sinatra singing in the background as you watch this timepiece operate and image Claret at the watch makers desk. This watch is a toy, a game for big boys, and a masterpiece among Claret's micro mechanical and manufacturing achievements. How cool are those hands edged in synthetic ruby?First the case and housing. The watch is 45mm wide and available in a few material combinations. All models have titanium that is mixed with either more titanium, 18k white or pink gold, or platinum. I believe there are five total combinations, which means that Claret will build a maximum of 105 of these timepieces (to be made over the years). By the way, on the PVD black titanium and 18k rose gold mode, the hands on the dial are not ruby edged, but black ceramic edged (with gold in the center). The case is fascinating, but not Claret's most unique. It is however a very proper design to go with the theme.

ANNUAL CALENDAR Automatic adjustment for months of 30 or 31 days

OVERSIZE DATE DISPLAY Semi-instantaneous, placed in a red outlined horizontal aperture under 12 o’clock. MONTH DISPLAYSemi-instantaneous indicated by arabic numerals, placed between 4 and 5 o’clock.FREE SPRUNG BALANCE WITH VARIABLE INERTIA This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shock and also during movement assembly and disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 small adjustable weights located directly on the balance. LOCKING CROWN During deep sea dives, the water pressure on the pushers and crown is powerful enough to unintentionally operate one of the pushers, eg. the “start” pusher of the chronograph. We also need to take into account that making a mistake with the crown is also a possibility. In order to avoid any external pressure effect or accidental manipulation, Richard Mille developed a locking crown for the RM 032 that is able to lock the pushers and ensure perfect water resistance to 300 meters. The crown and pushers can be locked by simply rotating its ring (green index if unlocked, red index if locked). The movement is prevented from being damaged because of overpressure or shocks on the crown. The water resistance is enhanced thanks to maximum pressure on the seals. This innovative device is specific to the RM 032 and is patent pending. ROTOR WITH VARIABLE GEOMETRY - Arm in grade 2 titanium - Flange in grade 2 titanium - 6-positional adjustment via grade 5 titanium screws - Ribs in 18k white gold, high palladium content - Weight segment in white gold - Ceramic ball bearings - Unidirectional anti-clockwise winding direction This exclusive Richard Mille design allows the rewinding of the mainspring to be adapted most effectively to the user’s activity level. By adjusting the setting of the rib’s placement, the rotor’s inertia is modified to either speed up the winding process in the case of leisurely arm movements, or slow it down when sporting activities are pursued. As a result, this invention allows the movement’s winding mechanism to be optimized. DOUBLE BARREL SYSTEM The double barrel system contributes to the torque stability over a longer period. This is achieved by using more rotations of the barrel, thereby reducing pressure and wear on the teeth, bearings and pivots, hence an improved long-term performance.BOTTOM PLATE, BRIDGES AND BALANCE COCK MADE OF TITANIUM These components are in grade 5 titanium with black PVD coating. This provides the whole assembly great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness that is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train. SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE BRIDGES AND CASE Due their design, these screws offer better control of the torque applied during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well. OTHER FEATURES - Diameter of the movement: 39.15 mm - Thickness: 9.00 mm - Number of jewels: 62 - Balance: Glucydur, 4 arms, inertia moment 4.8 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53?o - Frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz) - Balance spring: Elinvar - Shock protection: Incabloc 908.22.211.100 (transparent) - Escapement wheel jewels: Rubifix (transparent) - Stem with three positions: manual winding, date adjustment, time setting CASE The RM 032 is water resistant to 300 meters (30 atmospheres), following ISO 6425 diver’s watch norms. This is achieved with a unique, curved, tripartite case design. It is complemented with a screwed crown construction and the integration of the horns in the case. The horns of each RM 032 version have screws that optimally fix the diver’s rubber strap. In the world of horology, the case of the RM 032 is one the most difficult to manufacture. After a 1h30- hour turning phase, this tripartite case has to undergo 830 operations planned during an 9-hour milling phase. After a 11-hour machining phase, each case has to pass a full day of quality control. The pushers and their respective components and the crown require a 10-day machining phase. Within this period, numerous water resistant tests and quality controls are carried out and also the hand brushing and polishing of the case. All of these steps are paramount to obtain ergonomic levels specific to Richard Mille watches. UNIDIRECTIONAL BEZEL Built up of three layers connected with 22 screws, turning unidirectionally following ISO 6425 norms in order to avoid timing miscalculations. The use of an additional screwed system attaching the bezel to the watchcase makes it totally stable as well as impossible to inadvertently dislocate or loosen.In addition, the use of screws allows for perfect adjustment as the bezel is not tensioned into position.For clearer visibility under murky conditions, starting at 12 o’clock, the minute markers of the first quarter are highlighted in red. INTERIOR FLANGES (upper and lower) In carbon fiber, with index points filled with approved luminous material. DIAL In sapphire (thickness: 0.40 mm) with anti-glare treatment (2 sides), protected by 8 silicon braces inserted in the upper and lower grooves. CRYSTAL - Bezel side: in sapphire (1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (2 sides). - Thickness: 3.00 mm - Case back: in sapphire with anti-glare treatment (2 sides) - Thickness: at the center 1.40 mm and at outer edges 2.07 mm FINISHING MOVEMENT - Bottom plate and bridges in hand-ground grade 5 titanium, wet sandblasted, top face polished by hand PVD treated - Burnished pivots - Diamond polished sinks on the bridge side - Pinions with undercuts - Sandblasted and rhodium-plating, beveled wheels (before cutting) - Minimum correction applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance STEEL PARTS - Sapphire blasted and hand-drawn surfaces - Screw slot and screws beveled and polished with rounded and polished tip

Cartier Ballon Bleu Extra-Flat Watch

Among Cartier's many new releases for 2011 was this ultra-thin version of the popular Ballon Bleu. I am not totally sure why the Ballon Bleu is so popular. As a women's watch I totally get it. It has a elegant, bubbly beauty to it and some nice rounded curves. I mean the word "balloon" is in the name - at least I think that is what "ballon" means. I could be wrong, I don't know. Regardless of the true translation, the watch collection will always be the "blue balloon" to me - and now it is a bit deflated.Thin profile watches are hot in 2011. There are a lot of reasons for that, but cost is one of them. Brands can charge the same amount for a watch with less precious metal - and they can claim you are paying for the complexity of miniaturization. That argument might make sense, but thin watches have been around for generations. I actually don't mind thin profile watches unless they are wide enough. Anything under 40mm wide in a think profile won't see time on my wrist, and I prefer at least 42mm and wider if I can help it. Thankfully, Cartier made this thin version of the Ballon Bleu 46mm wide - great.Cartier calls the watch the "Extra-Flat" Ballon Bleu. There are at least a dozen ways that you find brands naming thin watches. Some just use names like "flat" or "thin," and sometimes terms like "slim." The brands sometimes get a bit over excited about the svelte nature of these timepieces and feel the need to add on adjectives to help you get in their same frame of mind. This is why you see labels like "ultra-thin" and "extra-flat." Can somebody in Switzerland come up with a set of "thinness" guidelines to help these brands out? What is considered thin? What is considered extra-thin? You don't see the term "extra-thick." Instead they use the term "oversized" (which I've mentioned about 6000 times is a dumb term I hate). The labels make no sense, but they are fun to say. As you can see, the Extra Flat Ballon Bleu is pretty darn thin on the wrist. Cartier doesn't even publish the thickness of the case. I didn't think to measure it when checking it out, but now I can't tell you the measurement. So how flat is the watch? Extra flat.To be fair, the actual thickness of a thin watch doesn't really matter unless you want to claim you have the thinnest one in the world, as is the case with some Piaget watches. What does matter is how they look and feel on the wrist. Cartier isn't in the game to beat any records, but it does want to offer a thin profile version of the popular seller - and it does look pretty classy. Thin just seems to be the popular thing to do these days, and brands are experimenting where they might not without this trend being around. The thin case of the Ballon Bleu Extra-Flat is broad and flat - which is good. I prefer them flatter versus curved when they are this size. The lugs curve a bit to make the watch fit better on your wrist.With just two hands and Cartier Roman numerals, the guilloche machine engraved dial looks slick and still easy to read. Whether or not you like the style of it is a matter of taste, but it is a pretty attractive face in the scheme of things. There is also that blue dialed version of the Ballon Bleu - that is special for the platinum cased model. Aside from that are 18k white and rose gold models with more traditional looking Cartier dials. The covered crown has a sapphire cabochon set in it.Cartier doesn't mention watch movement is in the Ballon Bleu Extra-Flat. But a quick look on the caseback reveals the term "mecanique." That says to me that the watch has a mechanical movement in it, which in this case is manually wound.?? Really odd that they don't publish more on that point. Most versions of this flat watch come on a brown alligator strap, but those people get the blue dialed platinum version will get a blue alligator strap. Price? The Cartier Ballon Bleu Extra-Flat will run you $20,300 - $21,800 in gold, and $32,550 in platinum.

Romain Jerome Titanic DNA Octopus Dive Watch

It really makes a lot of sense for there to be a real diver's watch in the Titanic DNA collection from Romain Jerome. I mean the whole idea of the collection is to commemorate something that is deep underwater. Well the Titanic DNA diver is here with the RJ Octopus. The Octopus name is actually part of the "octo" theme which involves the number 8. There are special 8 sided screws in parts of the case, it is water resistant to 888 feet, and it will be part of a limited edition of 888 pieces in a few varieties.The Titanic DNA Octopus is a pretty neat watch. It builds on the Titanic DNA core collection as well as some of the newer RJ Steampunk models. Please note that the model you see here is still a pre-production prototype. A lot of little things will change. Especially the bezel which here hasn't been fully oxidized to achieve the proper look and color. The watch case is 46mm wide with the case claws and "X" moving through the dial. The base dial is unique on each piece as it is individually hand brushed and meant to look a bit worn. There are large blue SuperLumiNova lumed hour markers, as well as indicators on the reverse side of the sapphire crystal. I also like the iconic brand hands now with lumed tips that are easy to see.As you can see the case is available in steel or PVD coated steel. There is also a version with 18k rose gold accents. Each has a distinct personality to it, and I think the overall collection is certainly a unique and fitting Titanic DNA diver. I just wished it was not still in the prototype phase.The Octopus has a unique feature that I believe is a world's first. Turning the bezel actually turns the sapphire crystal as well - and this is how you operate the rotating diver's bezel (as the indicators on the sapphire crystal itself. I thought that was pretty cool. RJ didn't want me showing you the back of the watch yet as it is not complete, but there will be a very richly engraved octopus that is hovering over the RJ logo. It will be a really cool design for the Octopus theme. Attached to the watch is a high-grade rubber strap which on the underside has an octopus tentacle-like design with "suction cups." Nice little touch right there, and on par with the attention to detail RJ watches tend to focus on.With a release scheduled for probably the summer or fall, the Romain Jerome Titanic DNA Octopus is a nice first dive watch for the brand. Like all RJ watches the limited edition will be only 888 pieces. If it is successful I anticipate other possible variants to come later. The watch will come in a diving helmet style watch box that completes the presentation. The box should me a good addition to your aquarium as a home for your real-life pet Octopus.

Genesis Watches

Genesis is not just a neat sounding word that someone thought would make for a good watch brand name. It is rather the name of the brand's founder and designer - Christine Genesis. How convenient is that? To have a cool last name like that? Christine is a rare breed being a full-on watch maker and a female. I wouldn't make a big deal of that fact if it was more common. I for one applaud the idea of having more female headliners in the watch industry. Christine's brand begins with some attractive watches that combine a little of classic traditionalism, Bauhaus, and modern minimalism. I don't like all the pieces, but I think overall this a nice brand worth paying attention to.About 3-4 years old now, Genesis has roughly eight models in the collection - each coming in a few styles. I've posted images of my favorite pieces. Genesis uses Swiss mechanical movements which look to be a mix of ETA and Soprod calibres. Most are automatics but there are a few manually wound varieties. The cases are mostly in steel and said to be CNC machined in Germany. The brand itself is located in Pforzheim, and the watches are said to be hand assembled there.Most models come in 38.5mm wide cases, going along with their classic personalities. According to Genesis, you can get "Black" versions of most of the watches with the cases being PVD coated black. I like the dials in either black or white with their applied baton hour markers and hands. Though they don't have luminant. The crystals are AR coated sapphire and the straps are hand-made ostrich or leather. This is another proud German watch with "Made in Germany" printed on the dial.The designs are good. Though the names of the watches are a bit bland, but most are quite attractive even though the watches themselves don't have very special qualities. My favorites are the Genesis 3, Genesis 4, and Genesis Rondo. The 3 and 4 are very similar having modified ETA 2892 automatic movements. The 3 has the time, big date, and subsidiary second timezone, while the 4 is the same but has a power reserve indicator versus a second timezone. Most of the watches are limited to just 44 pieces, with all the models seeming to be limited editions of various amounts.Prices aren't too bad. Most models are 2,150 euros, with most of the prices in the range. Overall Genesis watches are good simple designs from Germany, and are further made interesting by the branding being started by the female watch maker Christine Genesis. I believe you can order the watch online via their website, but you'll have to speak German.

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Deep Quest 3000m Diver Watch

The popularity of dive watches means that there are always going to be lots of new ones each year. One of my favorite new ones for 2011 is from Ball, and it is the Engineer Hydrocarbon Deep Quest 3000m diver. I will just call it the "Ball 3000m" diver for short. This super diver is water resistant to 3000 meters and carries Ball's signature cool engineered looks. Chunky and legible, it shouldn't be too expensive to boot.I don't know all the details yet, but I will tell you what I know. Size is at least 45mm wide, and as you can see the watch is quite thick. Ball is offering the 3000m diver with two dial styles - not sure how many colors. The one most people will prefer is likely the one seen here with the black dial. It has a more simple face that is easy to read thanks to the raised hour markers and large hands. Ball being Ball, everything is done in tritium gas tubes (that glow naturally and don't need light to charge). The dial has several layers and makes for a good look with the case.The other dial style is meant to further emphasize the three dimensional look and all the layers thereof. There is a lot more going on here. I would say that it is less utilitarian and more "Ball branding." The watch case is thick - it needs to be for that deep 3000 meters of water resistance. Sitting tall on your wrist it still has very curved lugs and is comfortable to wear. On the back side of the watch is a map engraving. The case is also antimagnetic and contains a Swiss automatic movement - likely an ETA 2824 or alike.As you can see, Ball will offer the Engineer Hydrocarbon Deep Quest 3000m with a vertical stripe textured rubber strap (that sits flush with the case) or one of their very good metal bracelets with accordingly nice deployment clasp. The 3000m isn't just a nice diver, it is one of the best looking watches ever to come from Ball. As these are prototype models expect a few potential changes before the final versions are released. Really impressing from both a design and utility standpoint. Look for these watches someone later in 2011.

Van Cleef & Arpels Jules Verne Les Voyages Watches

Each year Van Cleef & Arpels releases a series of limited edition watches that revolve around a certain theme. One of the themes this year was Jules Verne and the concept of discovery and exploration. To this end Van Cleef & Arpels created a few limited edition models to memorialize some of the places that Jules Verne described in his writings. There are also a few other pieces that expand on the concept of the exploration theme.Pictured here are some of the pieces that directly address the stories of Jules Verne. This is not however a depiction of the entire collection. There are two types of watches here. Two that contain more standard Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 846 three-hand automatic mechanical movements, and two that contain a special retrograde hour and minute movement that is based on a small JLC movement and has an exclusive to Van Cleef & Arpels module in it. These latter pieces have a retrograde hour hand on the left of the dial, and a retrograde hour hand on the right.One of these pieces is the Five Weeks In A Balloon watch that I first wrote about here. This model has a small bird on the left as the hour hand and an anchor on the right as the minute hand. The watches are all in 18k white gold and 42mm wide (I believe for the round men's models). You can also see oval shaped women's pieces.The concept of the collection is "Les Voyages." In all there are maybe a dozen limited edition pieces - though a few seem to have differing names, the classification system confuses me a bit. Most come in something like sets of 22 pieces. There is one set that comes together as 4 pieces and retails for $425,000. This includes the four watches and a special presentation box that is a piece of art unto itself. Each year Van Cleef & Arpels makes boxes such as this. They very high quality and made from a combination of woods with inlays such as mother of pearl. The box has places for all four of the watches along with little windows to see them while the box is closed.Boxes such as this are at the top of the food chain for "it is really nice and I can't throw it away, but where the hell am I going to put it?" After spending over $400,000, the box is a nice welcome to the collection.The watches themselves are interesting and beautiful, but not necessarily what I expect when I think of "Jules Verne." Many people consider Verne to be the father of modern science fiction. For me, he is much more about that, versus just exploration. The watches seem to focus more on the places he describes in a decorative manner, rather than the subject matter of what he was talking about. These are very "un sci-fi" watches. They are however very pretty timepieces that happen to have a rocket ship or balloon on them. These could just as easily have nothing to do with Jules Verne and still be presented the same way.It feels as though Van Cleef & Aprels couldn't decide how much Jules they wanted in the Les Voyages watches. As they use many highly talented female artists on the creation of the dial, there is a distinct feminine twist to these watches. It is possible though that I am looking for more techie stuff as I am of the Star Wars and video game generation. Speaking of the dials, they are stunning in their design and construction. Using engraved gold, mother of pearl, paillonne enamel, and other materials such as precious stones - the dials are created each by hand in a lush three-dimensional style. Few if any one in the world can rival Van Cleef & Arpel's techniques and executions.Each of these watches costs over $100,000 (if I recall correctly), and is worth the high price as an item of art and exclusivity. Van Cleef & Arpels really does make some amazing stuff - what pieces you will be drawn to most is a matter of taste. Look for many of these in museums decades from now.

Orbita Avanti 3 Watch Winder Review

"Fancy." Was pretty much the word that came to mind after finally unwrapping the Avanti 3 from US-based watch winder maker Orbita. This isn't the first package from Orbita that I have had to wage sweet war with to open, so I know this is a trend. I have to say that if Orbita ever decided to get out of the watch winder business they would find immediate use in the "package stuff up so that no matter what, nothing will damage it" business. If the attention to detail they use when packaging their products up for delivery speaks anything about the attention to detail in their products - these products should seemingly last forever.About 30 minutes after climbing the unpackaging mountain you reach the summit and the Avanti 3 shows itself accompanied by something that is best described as that "new watch winder smell." I have reviewed a few Orbita watch winders (such as the Sparta 1 Mini, Tesla, and Futura), and am consistently impressed by most of their watch winders. The Avanti 3 is more than a watch winder. Here you are getting to furniture-like items (not to mention some actual furniture) that Orbita offers. The Avanti 3 is part of a family of Avanti watch winder cabinets that come in a range of sizes.The unit is made of beautiful exotic Macassar wood with carbon fiber on the front panels and on the inside. Orbita routinely chooses very attractive woods for its products, and the finishing is very impressive. The integration with the carbon fiber feels natural as opposed to contrived as you don't often find the two materials side-by-side like this. The basic design of the Avanti is highly scalable. While the Avanti 3 is the most basic unit, Orbita offers models up to the Avanti 48. The difference is the size, and the amount of watch winders in the unit.Design-wise the Avanti really holds it own in a room. Orbita's concept behind the look of it was to fit in most any room, but look good without having to blend into the background. It goes without saying that the dark wood and carbon fiber is masculine in style. One thing I find interesting about the design is that it feels appropriate as a housing for modest timepieces up to the most high-end ones available. The front of the Avanti opens up with two lockable glass doors. Orbita supplies two keys for the lock. The system works well, but the doors don't close with the tautness of a vault. They are secure though. While the front doors lock, its use as a security mechanism is of course limited by the Avanti itself. While the locked glass doors will deter a "casual thief," anyone can just pick up the Avanti 3 and haul it away. The cabinet weights 22 pounds, and it isn't even plugged in. Dimensionally the Avanti 3 is 13.5 inches tall, 15.25 inches wide, and 8.25 inches deep.Orbita prefers to use batteries for the system rather than a wall plug. I personally would have preferred both options, but Orbita makes a compelling case for the batteries. Like most Orbita battery powered units, the Avanit 3 runs off special lithium ion cells. Orbita even white labels them and sells them to you when you need replacement. According to Orbita the four batteries in the Avanti 3 are good for 5 years of power. While the batteries aren't drug store cheap, they aren't a big expense to get every five years. Problem is that they aren't drug store available either. While there is probably a store in your area that has compatible batteries, when they do run out you'll need to specially order them from Orbita or hunt around for them while your watches aren't being wound. I wonder if you can run the winder off of standard D cells? I will have to ask Orbita about that. The batteries are placed in the rear of the unit. While the back of the Avanti 3 isn't unattractive, it isn't meant to be displayed - so you'll need to put the Avanti 3 against a wall. I would just get two of them and place them back-to-back!The Avanti watch winder family isn't new, but Orbita recently upgraded them with their patented ROTORWIND watch winders. I have praised this system before and my love of it stands. In addition to only sipping power and being virtually silent, the ROTORWIND system is very efficient and safe on your watch. There is no programming necessary either as the motion swings in both directions. The system uses a slow stepping motor to spin the watch into an apex position, and then releases it. A weight on the back of the winder unit similar to that in an automatic movement falls due to gravity and oscillates back and forth. The Avanti 3 is programmed to "spin" once each 10 minutes. According to Orbita this provides enough power to keep a watch running, but wont wind it past the point it was when you placed it in the winder. This is good for ensuring optimal accuracy. The maintenance free and efficient ROTORWIND system make it one of the best types of watch winding mechanisms out there.Inside the cabinet are three watch winders (with a single on/off switch) and a few slide-out drawers. The Avanti 6 on the other hand does away with the draws to make room for 6 watch winders. The drawers can be used to hold other watches (that lay flat) or anything else that fits. There are three drawers - one above the winders and two below. The fit and finish on the inside is well-done and the carbon fiber looks striking here. According to Orbita, if you buy an Avanti 3 and later want it to have more winders, you can send it back to them and they will install another row of winders for you to make it an Avanti 6.Made in America, the Avanti 3 three is a well performing watch winder and attractive addition to a room where men can celebrate their hobbies. As watch collecting usually involves growing your collection, so does your need for winders. At a point you prefer units that wind multiple watches, and the better looking they are the more you want them. Price for the Avanti 3 is $2,995. That goes up to $4,995 for the Avanti 6, and way up to $54,000 for the Avanti 48.Thanks to Orbita for the review unit. Opinions are 100& independent.

MB&F HM3 Frog Zr Watch

Behold the HM3 Frog Zr, aka "Black Frog," the newest highly limited watch from MB&F - there will only be 18 pieces.??Unless I am mistaken, this is the first watch offered by the boutique brand done in zirconium (hence the Zr part of the name). Zirconium is a rare metal similar to titanium, but known to be more robust. According to MB&F, most zirconium is used in nuclear reactors and high-tech aerospace applications. There are a few high-end watches that utilize the exotic metal, and now MB&F has an interesting piece imbued with Zr.The Black Frog is based on the HM3 Frog that came out last year. I discussed the piece more in this article. It is a variation on the MB&F HM3 that features two large domes under sapphire crystal that rotate to tell the hours and minutes. Being extremely popular, MB&F has been continually asked by fans to expand on the HM3 Frog theme. This newest one is probably the coolest Frog so far in my opinion (though I did really like the Chocolate Frog a lot).In nature black frogs exist, but what about black and purple ones? I discovered that they indeed do. In 2007 a new species of Atelopus frog in Suriname was discovered by scientists to be black with??florescent purple stripes. I wonder if MB&F was aware of this little guy when designing the Frog Zr watch - in any event it is a great mascot for the timepiece and a beautiful creature.The Black Frog's zirconium case is coated black. The weight of zirconium is similar to that of titanium and the look of the case is fantastic with the purple coated 22k gold rotor for the automatic movement. MB&F shared with me an interesting story about the purple color. MB&F was with a supplier and interested in new colors that were available. They were told of a purple color, but advised against using it because it was "unstable." Immediately??intrigued, MB&F asked what they meant. Basically the metallic purple color didn't maintain the same purple tone in all angles. Even though the supplier thought no one would want the color, MB&F realized it would be perfect for the battle ax style rotor - and it is. The purple rotor is really the star of the design - appearing to change colors all the time.Attached to the black alligator strap the Frog Zr is a good looking timepiece and exudes a smooth sort of confident coolness. Limited to 18 pieces, the MB&F HM3 Frog Zr will be available soon - for a retail price of $92,000.HM3 Frog Zr — Technical SpecificationsHM3 Frog Zr is a limited edition of 18 pieces Movement: Three-dimensional horological engine designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor;Powered by a Girard-Perregaux baseBalance oscillating at 28,800 bph.Purple 22K rose gold battle-axe shaped ‘mystery’ automatic winding rotorHour and minutes information transmitted via ceramic ball bearings to rotating domes.Number of jewels: 36 (all functional)Number of components: 304Functions:Hour on one dome (aluminium dome rotating in 12 hours)Minutes on second dome (aluminium dome rotating in 60 minutes)Date around the movementCase:Zirconium; limited edition of 18 piecesScrewed-down crownDimensions (exclusive of crown and lugs): 47mm x 50mm x 16mmNumber of case components: 53Sapphire crystals:Domes and both display backs with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.Dials:Rotating aluminium domes — 0.58g, stationary handsStrap & Buckle:Black hand-stitched alligator strap with 18K white gold & titanium custom designed deployment buckle