Thursday, May 24, 2012

Perrelet Turbine XL Watch Review

If it is fun and you play with, then it is a toy right? call the novel spinning turbine style disc in this watch what you like - but this is a man's toy of the highest caliber. Does being akin to a toy degrade the feeling of luxury and high-end prestige that Perrelet is going for? No. At least I don't think so. Wealthy guys who stand around with nice watches talking about cars and boats are often looked at by their female companions who simply sigh and say "men and their toys." Most of the high-end stuff we like are actually toys. You know that ultra fast super car you've been eying since before you can drive? The one that goes a lot faster than you can ever legally or practically go? Everything about that car that is above and beyond getting from point A to point B in comfort, is a toy.The same applies to watches. Anything that exists in a timepiece on top of the time telling function is a toy. A bit of ol' fun for the distinguished gentlemen who needs a few play things in his life. I have a feeling that is one of the reasons I love watches so much. You can put on any number of watches and feel like you magically are more like what the watch suggests. Why do you think pilot and dive watches are so successful? It has nothing to do with needs of the world's demanding divers and pilots. These are toys. Well-made, hopefully highly functional, toys.Perrelet created a hell of a fun toy with the original Perrelet Turbine watch, and improved on it with the Turbine XL. It is large, has a more distinctive design and a more turbine-like, turbine style dial. The spinning turbine on the dial serves no functional purpose -but doesn't even pretend to. This is meant to be a pure item of visual entertainment. The evolution of the watch goes back to Perrelet's double rotor concept. Where the automatic rotor on the rear of the watch was connected to another rotor on the watch dial. This signature Perrelet concept turned into this a few years ago. The Turbine XL watch -for effect purposes - no longer has a rotor on the dial that is connected to the rotor in the movement. This allows the turbine on the dial to rotate much more freely (for a cooler effect), than the one in the automatic movement. The movement is the Perrelet P-181, that is a Soprod automatic (that I believe is based on the ETA 2892A2).Movement decoration is nice, but I miss those little signature repeating "Ps" that some other Perrelet watches have. The engraved black rotor is quite cool though. As you can see, the movement is visible through a sapphire display back. Now I get to talk about the case, which I have been waiting to do. This is a marvelously cool case, that is also very comfortable and well made. Most Perrelet Turbine XL models are in titanium, though there is also a gold version available. The titanium models have polished DLC coated steel bezels, while some of the models (such as the orange one here) are in all DLC coated metal. Perrelet uses a very good DLC application process and shape of the watch - while very angular - seems to eludes really sharp to the touch. Like the original Turbine, the crown is inset in the case with a fold out little handle. The system works rather well, but the little fold-out part can be a tiny bit easy to open on its own sometimes.At first I was concerned about the "claws" on the bezel looking strange, but they don't These are very welcome design features which add a more visually interesting quality to the case. The case itself is 50mm wide - the reason for the "XL" part of the name (for reference, the original Perrelet Turbine was 43-44mm wide). This number will likely scare some people, but I urge you not to worry. This watch is 50mm wide, and does not wear like one. The relatively short lugs and thick area between the outer edge of the bezel to the watch dial is thick. This watch wears smaller than 50mm. It certainly feels like a sizable timepiece, but I would never consider it too big. This is a perfect size for such a statement setting timepiece (which is also a fun toy).Perrelet designed the case to be water resistant to 50 meters, and it has a domed, AR coated sapphire crystal over the dial. The very high-grade rubber strap is perfectly integrated into the case design, and is very comfortable. The buckle is in contrast polished titanium. Very good marks from me when it comes to comfort and construction for the Turbine XL.The turbine part of the dial will spin a lot, and if you have one you'll notice yourself playfully oscillating your wrist just to make it spin. If Perrelet sticks with the Turbine concept, as I think they will in the future - the dial and turbine element will improve even more.Now for the dial - the place where the magic happens. First let me say that I love the small details. There is a lot going on here - and Perrelet (along with the watch designer) has done a fantastic job of making the dial both fun and legible. The hands are large and broad - properly sized, and with a colorful seconds hand. On the orange and green models the hands are black on black, with black colored SuperLumiNova. These are harder to see versus the white hands, but are still legible. These are best when you want to show off the dial more than the hands. You can see all of the models here.As such, on the green and orange models, the "turbine" is a mixture of two colors. These blend together when the turbine spins with your wrist's motion and look great. Alternatively, the two models with white hands emphasize telling the time more than showing off the turbine. On those models the turbine is black on black. This is a bit of a shame, as only the person wearing the watch really gets to enjoy the turbine effect. The orange and green watches are more "spectator magnets."Wonderfully there is a complex, sloped chapter ring that sits over the turbine around the dial that helps with reading the time. Not only is the watch face fantastically 3-D, but it is a highly functional watch. This is a necessary feature for men like me who need a healthy amount of justification in their toys in the form of "well it is also a useful tool."Toy or not toy, I love this watch. I wouldn't wear it everyday, but I would wear it enough. The fact that it is a cool, comfortable, and high-end watch makes it an even more fun toy. There are several models in the Perrelet Turbine XL line, and most range from about $6,000 - $6,650. The Limited edition 18k rose gold version will be more at a bit over $25,000.

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Giveaway: Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT Watch

I am pretty jealous of who ever will be the winner of this month's giveaway. I have here a Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT watch for your winning pleasure. The C60 Trident was released in late 2010 and came in a range of flavors. The inspiration behind the C60 Trident collection is the widely beloved (and also British) Bremont Supermarine 500. Not everyone can afford a Supermarine, so the C60 Trident is your next best bet. Christopher Ward also offers the C60 Trident in GMT form, and that is what you can win here.This watch is interesting because it borrows from both the Bremont Supermarine and the famous Rolex GMT Master Pan Am - nick-named the Rolex GMT "Pepsi dial."  This Ref. C60-GMT-SRBK  watch is in steel and 42mm wide (water resistant to 300 meters). Inside the watch is a Swiss ETA 2893-2 automatic GMT movement. The watch has a rotating GMT bezel and comes on a leather strap. A fantastic looking timepiece and one of the best available from Christopher Ward at this time. The retail price for this Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT watch is $630. Learn more at Christopher Ward here. For a Chance to win, see below!To Enter You Must: 1. Comment on this post below with your valid e-mail address where required. In the body of your comment mention a very high-end watch that you wish you could afford.2. Be a pal. If possible, Facebook friend/fan all or any of the following:Friend me on Facebook Like aBlogtoRead.com on FacebookWant aBlogtoRead.com articles automatically sent to you via e-mail? Sign up here:3. Wait until the giveaway is over on March 1st, 2011 for the winner to be chosen at random.A couple of basic rules. You can only enter once. You must comment with a valid e-mail address where you can be reached. Your comment must be confirmed and approved. You must complete the objectives to be considered. You are responsible for providing your contact shipping information if you are chosen. Shipping restrictions to non US entrants may apply based on sponsor's policies. Giveaway watch selection based on sponsor's inventory and watch availability. All comments made after the end of the giveaway period will not be considered. For the full terms and conditions, please click here.Good luck, and thanks to Christopher Ward the sponsor of this C60 Trident GMT giveaway!

Monday, May 21, 2012

December Watch Winner Round-Up

During December 2010 you readers had the chance to win not one, but seven timepieces here. I usually ask winners to give me images and a review of the watches, but given that there were a lot of winners for December, I thought it would just be nice to do a pictorial post with "wrist shots." One of the winners is missing as I didn't get shots from them yet - but I will include an image of winner of the Magrette Moana Pacific PVD watch winner ASAP. I am really thrilled that everyone is enjoying their new watches.?? Congrats again to the winners, thanks again to the sponsors, and keep trying in the future if you haven't won a watch yet. I will keep these up as long as you all enjoy them.

We spend time with learned Mr. Jake Ehlirch of - to discuss.. what else but Rolex, and some of the history thereof.Listen to HourTime Show watch podcast episode 54 here.

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

MB&F HM2 SV Final Edition Watches Hands

These "Final Edition" HM2 Red SV & Black SV watches put the Horological Machine number 2 proudly to rest. MB&F first experimented with the "Sapphire Vision" concept with the original HM2 SV watch that was included in this article here. Using a sapphire plate versus metal as the top of the watch caused a whirlwind of "I want that." MB&F freely admitted that the project probably cost them more than they anticipated given the cost of machining the sapphire plates, but it was worth it for the fans.The original HM2 SV was limited to only 25 pieces. That is a really low amount given how popular the watch was - and it was popular for good reason. The Sapphire Vision offered not only unparalleled views of the movement, but also created a totally new looking surface for a watch that spoke all too well the language of love for watch nerds. So for the last pieces in the HM2 collection to ever be made, MB&F offers just a few more of these sexy Sapphire Visions for us to enjoy.I first spoke about the MB&F HM2 Red SV & Black SV watches here. Visit that article for information on pricing, technical specs, etc... This will be about handling the actual watches, and what it means for the future of MB&F. What I will say right off the bat is that the watch are limited to just 18 pieces each.The black or green colored gaskets really give these watches that extra bit of character that they need to be highly memorable. They are of course there for the functional purposes of water resistance and to keep dust out. For generations we have been interested in looking at watch movements to see how they work. I have a strong feeling that this early desire to peek under a watch's robes influenced watch makers to create such nicely decorated movements. It makes me wonder how some watch makers draw the line between "functional" and "aesthetic." Appreciation of timepieces inherently involves a love of mechanics and gadgetry. To know the items we appreciate are as complicated as our interests helps fuel our ongoing passions. MB&F's founder Max Busser and the team are as much gadgetaholics as they are watch makers. Timepieces such as the HM2 Sapphire Visions are perfect intersections of these two interests.While not the first of its type, the HM2's long, horizontally rectangular case and movement are good to frame. Especially since there are actually two "dials" to show off. This means that gear-work and polished metal are spread out nicely across the watch, suitable for "whole view" of what is under the top plate of the watch. What I am trying to say is that not many watches are sexy looking from each angle. The HM2 benefits from having a design that fits the "exposed" look. Other watches start to look less glamorous when you take their clothes off. According to information given to me from MB&F sometime ago, the sapphire plate over the movement required something like 50-60 hours to machine (for each piece). And many of them break in the machining process. The result is totally worth it though.The HM2 Red SV has an 18k red gold back plate, while the Black SV has a PVD coated titanium back plate. Each model is really nice looking depending on your mood at the time. No doubt that the showy flash of green on the Black SV will appeal to those times when you want your wrist to shout for extra attention. Though that statement is hard to make only for the Black SV, as the Red SV isn't exactly an "under the radar piece."MB&F ensures that the dials are as easy to read on these HM2s as they are on any other HM2 model. The left dial on the watch has the date and moon phase, while the right dial has the time. On the back of the watch you have the spinning "battle axe" style automatic rotor in gold.Technology is slowly starting to catch up to the dreams of ambitious watch makers who want to use materials like sapphire for elements like cases, etc... It wasn't so easy for MB&F to find a supplier to do this, but in the future I think the allure of highly shaped synthetic sapphire crystal will yield new processes to carefully cut the hard crystal. If you recall the HM4 Thunderbolt watch heavily relies on a section of the case being done with a sapphire crystal. I anticipate that in the years to come MB&F will further push the limits of what can be done with sapphire crystal for watch case parts. It would be amazing to have an all sapphire watch case that clearly (and scratchlessly) displays beautifully decorated mechanics on the inside as though the case were a transparent egg.This use of sapphire will trend over to other brands, and I think in the next 10 years synthetic sapphire crystal could become the next interesting material that high-end watch makers will use more. This will become more true when the material is easier to cut and of course, color.Consider MB&F trendsetters in this area, and the HM2 Sapphire Vision watches examples of what can be done when sapphire and watch making come together in harmony. These watches a pain to take pictures of, but seeing them in person is all the "sell" you need. Give em a go at $98,000 a piece.

Friday, May 11, 2012

Fullspot O Clock Watch

Here are some nice looking and very inexpensive Italian watches from Fullspot. Certainly designer, certainly fashion-ey, certainly the opposite of most of what you have in your collection. But actually quite fun. How cheap? Not really sure to be honest as there seems to be two prices. The brand's US site wants $36 per watch, while the Fullspot's Italian site (both have e-commerce components) wants $24.35. With shipping I am not sure how much they are. So, it is either of the two.The company is really not watch enthusiast focused. So don't expect such specifics such as how large the cases are. Seriously, why does this information elude people to include? Fullspot confuses the matter by saying that they come in three sizes. This actually just refers to the strap that come in "small, medium, and large" sizes. The straps have no connectors or clasps. They are silicon based watches with a bracelet like strap. The top of the strap has a casing for the watch - which fits in the case/strap as an insert.The watch itself is in metal and plastic with a crystal. It has a quartz movement and a more or less Movado-simple dial in all white with the "O Clock" logo. The deviously simple system offers the wearer to buy various case/straps and change colors as often as they like. As you can see, the O Clock comes in a ton of different colors. I have to admit they look cool - are there days when you could pull this off? Certainly a great gift item for young people.Fullspot claims that the watches are designed and manufactured in Italy. I doubt the movements are though. While the basic watches are cool enough, the brand just released a line of Disney licensed watches. The collection of five O Clock Disney watches have either Mickey, Minnie, Pluto, or Goofy on the dials. Apparently Fullspot has a hit with the O Clock as they have been extremely popular.                No items matching your keywords were found.

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Christophe Claret 21 Blackjack Watch

A new video just released by Christophe Claret finally shows the entire upcoming 21 Blackjack watch - and it is in full action.?? So I should probably take this opportunity to debut the watch to you. You are gonna love this one. This latest wild wonder watch by master watch maker Christophe Claret is imbued with three different casino games, and you can play blackjack with it, as the watch as the dealer. It also lets you play roulette and dice.I first wrote about the Christophe Claret 21 Blackjack watch here with more information on just how excited you should be (and why you can't likely afford it). Now for the full scoop. Once I get my hands on it I will get your minds dirty with Christophe Claret watch porn. The 21 Blackjack is the third watch to bear the Christophe Claret name - as his past involved being the "inside guy," making movement for other brands. First was the Dual Tow from 2010, then the Adagio from 2011, and now the 21 Blackjack also for 2011. The spectacular "gamer's" watch will be part of a limited edition of 21 per version set, and have a six figure price (that specifically is below).When Claret does something, he does it his way. You can also hear Casino voice favorite Frank Sinatra singing in the background as you watch this timepiece operate and image Claret at the watch makers desk. This watch is a toy, a game for big boys, and a masterpiece among Claret's micro mechanical and manufacturing achievements. How cool are those hands edged in synthetic ruby?First the case and housing. The watch is 45mm wide and available in a few material combinations. All models have titanium that is mixed with either more titanium, 18k white or pink gold, or platinum. I believe there are five total combinations, which means that Claret will build a maximum of 105 of these timepieces (to be made over the years). By the way, on the PVD black titanium and 18k rose gold mode, the hands on the dial are not ruby edged, but black ceramic edged (with gold in the center). The case is fascinating, but not Claret's most unique. It is however a very proper design to go with the theme.

Tuesday, May 8, 2012

ANNUAL CALENDAR Automatic adjustment for months of 30 or 31 days

OVERSIZE DATE DISPLAY Semi-instantaneous, placed in a red outlined horizontal aperture under 12 o’clock. MONTH DISPLAYSemi-instantaneous indicated by arabic numerals, placed between 4 and 5 o’clock.FREE SPRUNG BALANCE WITH VARIABLE INERTIA This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shock and also during movement assembly and disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 small adjustable weights located directly on the balance. LOCKING CROWN During deep sea dives, the water pressure on the pushers and crown is powerful enough to unintentionally operate one of the pushers, eg. the “start” pusher of the chronograph. We also need to take into account that making a mistake with the crown is also a possibility. In order to avoid any external pressure effect or accidental manipulation, Richard Mille developed a locking crown for the RM 032 that is able to lock the pushers and ensure perfect water resistance to 300 meters. The crown and pushers can be locked by simply rotating its ring (green index if unlocked, red index if locked). The movement is prevented from being damaged because of overpressure or shocks on the crown. The water resistance is enhanced thanks to maximum pressure on the seals. This innovative device is specific to the RM 032 and is patent pending. ROTOR WITH VARIABLE GEOMETRY - Arm in grade 2 titanium - Flange in grade 2 titanium - 6-positional adjustment via grade 5 titanium screws - Ribs in 18k white gold, high palladium content - Weight segment in white gold - Ceramic ball bearings - Unidirectional anti-clockwise winding direction This exclusive Richard Mille design allows the rewinding of the mainspring to be adapted most effectively to the user’s activity level. By adjusting the setting of the rib’s placement, the rotor’s inertia is modified to either speed up the winding process in the case of leisurely arm movements, or slow it down when sporting activities are pursued. As a result, this invention allows the movement’s winding mechanism to be optimized. DOUBLE BARREL SYSTEM The double barrel system contributes to the torque stability over a longer period. This is achieved by using more rotations of the barrel, thereby reducing pressure and wear on the teeth, bearings and pivots, hence an improved long-term performance.BOTTOM PLATE, BRIDGES AND BALANCE COCK MADE OF TITANIUM These components are in grade 5 titanium with black PVD coating. This provides the whole assembly great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness that is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train. SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE BRIDGES AND CASE Due their design, these screws offer better control of the torque applied during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well. OTHER FEATURES - Diameter of the movement: 39.15 mm - Thickness: 9.00 mm - Number of jewels: 62 - Balance: Glucydur, 4 arms, inertia moment 4.8 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53?o - Frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz) - Balance spring: Elinvar - Shock protection: Incabloc 908.22.211.100 (transparent) - Escapement wheel jewels: Rubifix (transparent) - Stem with three positions: manual winding, date adjustment, time setting CASE The RM 032 is water resistant to 300 meters (30 atmospheres), following ISO 6425 diver’s watch norms. This is achieved with a unique, curved, tripartite case design. It is complemented with a screwed crown construction and the integration of the horns in the case. The horns of each RM 032 version have screws that optimally fix the diver’s rubber strap. In the world of horology, the case of the RM 032 is one the most difficult to manufacture. After a 1h30- hour turning phase, this tripartite case has to undergo 830 operations planned during an 9-hour milling phase. After a 11-hour machining phase, each case has to pass a full day of quality control. The pushers and their respective components and the crown require a 10-day machining phase. Within this period, numerous water resistant tests and quality controls are carried out and also the hand brushing and polishing of the case. All of these steps are paramount to obtain ergonomic levels specific to Richard Mille watches. UNIDIRECTIONAL BEZEL Built up of three layers connected with 22 screws, turning unidirectionally following ISO 6425 norms in order to avoid timing miscalculations. The use of an additional screwed system attaching the bezel to the watchcase makes it totally stable as well as impossible to inadvertently dislocate or loosen.In addition, the use of screws allows for perfect adjustment as the bezel is not tensioned into position.For clearer visibility under murky conditions, starting at 12 o’clock, the minute markers of the first quarter are highlighted in red. INTERIOR FLANGES (upper and lower) In carbon fiber, with index points filled with approved luminous material. DIAL In sapphire (thickness: 0.40 mm) with anti-glare treatment (2 sides), protected by 8 silicon braces inserted in the upper and lower grooves. CRYSTAL - Bezel side: in sapphire (1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (2 sides). - Thickness: 3.00 mm - Case back: in sapphire with anti-glare treatment (2 sides) - Thickness: at the center 1.40 mm and at outer edges 2.07 mm FINISHING MOVEMENT - Bottom plate and bridges in hand-ground grade 5 titanium, wet sandblasted, top face polished by hand PVD treated - Burnished pivots - Diamond polished sinks on the bridge side - Pinions with undercuts - Sandblasted and rhodium-plating, beveled wheels (before cutting) - Minimum correction applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance STEEL PARTS - Sapphire blasted and hand-drawn surfaces - Screw slot and screws beveled and polished with rounded and polished tip

Saturday, May 5, 2012

Cartier Ballon Bleu Extra-Flat Watch

Among Cartier's many new releases for 2011 was this ultra-thin version of the popular Ballon Bleu. I am not totally sure why the Ballon Bleu is so popular. As a women's watch I totally get it. It has a elegant, bubbly beauty to it and some nice rounded curves. I mean the word "balloon" is in the name - at least I think that is what "ballon" means. I could be wrong, I don't know. Regardless of the true translation, the watch collection will always be the "blue balloon" to me - and now it is a bit deflated.Thin profile watches are hot in 2011. There are a lot of reasons for that, but cost is one of them. Brands can charge the same amount for a watch with less precious metal - and they can claim you are paying for the complexity of miniaturization. That argument might make sense, but thin watches have been around for generations. I actually don't mind thin profile watches unless they are wide enough. Anything under 40mm wide in a think profile won't see time on my wrist, and I prefer at least 42mm and wider if I can help it. Thankfully, Cartier made this thin version of the Ballon Bleu 46mm wide - great.Cartier calls the watch the "Extra-Flat" Ballon Bleu. There are at least a dozen ways that you find brands naming thin watches. Some just use names like "flat" or "thin," and sometimes terms like "slim." The brands sometimes get a bit over excited about the svelte nature of these timepieces and feel the need to add on adjectives to help you get in their same frame of mind. This is why you see labels like "ultra-thin" and "extra-flat." Can somebody in Switzerland come up with a set of "thinness" guidelines to help these brands out? What is considered thin? What is considered extra-thin? You don't see the term "extra-thick." Instead they use the term "oversized" (which I've mentioned about 6000 times is a dumb term I hate). The labels make no sense, but they are fun to say. As you can see, the Extra Flat Ballon Bleu is pretty darn thin on the wrist. Cartier doesn't even publish the thickness of the case. I didn't think to measure it when checking it out, but now I can't tell you the measurement. So how flat is the watch? Extra flat.To be fair, the actual thickness of a thin watch doesn't really matter unless you want to claim you have the thinnest one in the world, as is the case with some Piaget watches. What does matter is how they look and feel on the wrist. Cartier isn't in the game to beat any records, but it does want to offer a thin profile version of the popular seller - and it does look pretty classy. Thin just seems to be the popular thing to do these days, and brands are experimenting where they might not without this trend being around. The thin case of the Ballon Bleu Extra-Flat is broad and flat - which is good. I prefer them flatter versus curved when they are this size. The lugs curve a bit to make the watch fit better on your wrist.With just two hands and Cartier Roman numerals, the guilloche machine engraved dial looks slick and still easy to read. Whether or not you like the style of it is a matter of taste, but it is a pretty attractive face in the scheme of things. There is also that blue dialed version of the Ballon Bleu - that is special for the platinum cased model. Aside from that are 18k white and rose gold models with more traditional looking Cartier dials. The covered crown has a sapphire cabochon set in it.Cartier doesn't mention watch movement is in the Ballon Bleu Extra-Flat. But a quick look on the caseback reveals the term "mecanique." That says to me that the watch has a mechanical movement in it, which in this case is manually wound.?? Really odd that they don't publish more on that point. Most versions of this flat watch come on a brown alligator strap, but those people get the blue dialed platinum version will get a blue alligator strap. Price? The Cartier Ballon Bleu Extra-Flat will run you $20,300 - $21,800 in gold, and $32,550 in platinum.

Thursday, May 3, 2012

Romain Jerome Titanic DNA Octopus Dive Watch

It really makes a lot of sense for there to be a real diver's watch in the Titanic DNA collection from Romain Jerome. I mean the whole idea of the collection is to commemorate something that is deep underwater. Well the Titanic DNA diver is here with the RJ Octopus. The Octopus name is actually part of the "octo" theme which involves the number 8. There are special 8 sided screws in parts of the case, it is water resistant to 888 feet, and it will be part of a limited edition of 888 pieces in a few varieties.The Titanic DNA Octopus is a pretty neat watch. It builds on the Titanic DNA core collection as well as some of the newer RJ Steampunk models. Please note that the model you see here is still a pre-production prototype. A lot of little things will change. Especially the bezel which here hasn't been fully oxidized to achieve the proper look and color. The watch case is 46mm wide with the case claws and "X" moving through the dial. The base dial is unique on each piece as it is individually hand brushed and meant to look a bit worn. There are large blue SuperLumiNova lumed hour markers, as well as indicators on the reverse side of the sapphire crystal. I also like the iconic brand hands now with lumed tips that are easy to see.As you can see the case is available in steel or PVD coated steel. There is also a version with 18k rose gold accents. Each has a distinct personality to it, and I think the overall collection is certainly a unique and fitting Titanic DNA diver. I just wished it was not still in the prototype phase.The Octopus has a unique feature that I believe is a world's first. Turning the bezel actually turns the sapphire crystal as well - and this is how you operate the rotating diver's bezel (as the indicators on the sapphire crystal itself. I thought that was pretty cool. RJ didn't want me showing you the back of the watch yet as it is not complete, but there will be a very richly engraved octopus that is hovering over the RJ logo. It will be a really cool design for the Octopus theme. Attached to the watch is a high-grade rubber strap which on the underside has an octopus tentacle-like design with "suction cups." Nice little touch right there, and on par with the attention to detail RJ watches tend to focus on.With a release scheduled for probably the summer or fall, the Romain Jerome Titanic DNA Octopus is a nice first dive watch for the brand. Like all RJ watches the limited edition will be only 888 pieces. If it is successful I anticipate other possible variants to come later. The watch will come in a diving helmet style watch box that completes the presentation. The box should me a good addition to your aquarium as a home for your real-life pet Octopus.

Genesis Watches

Genesis is not just a neat sounding word that someone thought would make for a good watch brand name. It is rather the name of the brand's founder and designer - Christine Genesis. How convenient is that? To have a cool last name like that? Christine is a rare breed being a full-on watch maker and a female. I wouldn't make a big deal of that fact if it was more common. I for one applaud the idea of having more female headliners in the watch industry. Christine's brand begins with some attractive watches that combine a little of classic traditionalism, Bauhaus, and modern minimalism. I don't like all the pieces, but I think overall this a nice brand worth paying attention to.About 3-4 years old now, Genesis has roughly eight models in the collection - each coming in a few styles. I've posted images of my favorite pieces. Genesis uses Swiss mechanical movements which look to be a mix of ETA and Soprod calibres. Most are automatics but there are a few manually wound varieties. The cases are mostly in steel and said to be CNC machined in Germany. The brand itself is located in Pforzheim, and the watches are said to be hand assembled there.Most models come in 38.5mm wide cases, going along with their classic personalities. According to Genesis, you can get "Black" versions of most of the watches with the cases being PVD coated black. I like the dials in either black or white with their applied baton hour markers and hands. Though they don't have luminant. The crystals are AR coated sapphire and the straps are hand-made ostrich or leather. This is another proud German watch with "Made in Germany" printed on the dial.The designs are good. Though the names of the watches are a bit bland, but most are quite attractive even though the watches themselves don't have very special qualities. My favorites are the Genesis 3, Genesis 4, and Genesis Rondo. The 3 and 4 are very similar having modified ETA 2892 automatic movements. The 3 has the time, big date, and subsidiary second timezone, while the 4 is the same but has a power reserve indicator versus a second timezone. Most of the watches are limited to just 44 pieces, with all the models seeming to be limited editions of various amounts.Prices aren't too bad. Most models are 2,150 euros, with most of the prices in the range. Overall Genesis watches are good simple designs from Germany, and are further made interesting by the branding being started by the female watch maker Christine Genesis. I believe you can order the watch online via their website, but you'll have to speak German.

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Deep Quest 3000m Diver Watch

The popularity of dive watches means that there are always going to be lots of new ones each year. One of my favorite new ones for 2011 is from Ball, and it is the Engineer Hydrocarbon Deep Quest 3000m diver. I will just call it the "Ball 3000m" diver for short. This super diver is water resistant to 3000 meters and carries Ball's signature cool engineered looks. Chunky and legible, it shouldn't be too expensive to boot.I don't know all the details yet, but I will tell you what I know. Size is at least 45mm wide, and as you can see the watch is quite thick. Ball is offering the 3000m diver with two dial styles - not sure how many colors. The one most people will prefer is likely the one seen here with the black dial. It has a more simple face that is easy to read thanks to the raised hour markers and large hands. Ball being Ball, everything is done in tritium gas tubes (that glow naturally and don't need light to charge). The dial has several layers and makes for a good look with the case.The other dial style is meant to further emphasize the three dimensional look and all the layers thereof. There is a lot more going on here. I would say that it is less utilitarian and more "Ball branding." The watch case is thick - it needs to be for that deep 3000 meters of water resistance. Sitting tall on your wrist it still has very curved lugs and is comfortable to wear. On the back side of the watch is a map engraving. The case is also antimagnetic and contains a Swiss automatic movement - likely an ETA 2824 or alike.As you can see, Ball will offer the Engineer Hydrocarbon Deep Quest 3000m with a vertical stripe textured rubber strap (that sits flush with the case) or one of their very good metal bracelets with accordingly nice deployment clasp. The 3000m isn't just a nice diver, it is one of the best looking watches ever to come from Ball. As these are prototype models expect a few potential changes before the final versions are released. Really impressing from both a design and utility standpoint. Look for these watches someone later in 2011.