Hublot King Power Ayrton Senna Limited Edition Watches

In 1994 a terrible accident during an F1 race in Italy caused Brazilian driver Ayrton Senna to die. I believe that he was the last person to die during a Formula 1 race, and has been a testament to the needs of caution and safety in the work of super-fast racing circuits. Since his death, lots of new safety regulations and technology have been implemented to make the world of competitive racing safer.Recently an event was held in his honor, to raise money for charity via the Instituto Ayrton Senna. Hublot, a long time partner with many drivers as well as the official timepiece maker of Formula One was there to offer two new limited edition timepieces. The event would have been Senna's 50th birthday, and at the event was a debut of a new documentary film about his life called "Senna." The film is being carried by Paramount Pictures, having been developed by Working Title and Universal together. Might be something we find in theaters soon.The two limited edition Ayrton Senna watches from Hublot are quite interesting. Hublot here has been able to showcase a few new things. The first of which are all carbon-fiber versions of their King Power watch cases. Often times cases will have carbon fiber inserts, but theses 48mm wide cases are in all carbon fiber, though part of Hublot's typical sandwich construction.?? This in a sense is Hublot's answer to Audemars Piguet's forged carbon cases on some of their Royal Oak Offshore watches. While the cases are carbon fiber, the bezels are in matte ceramic and made to look like disc brakes. The screws and crown are PVD black titanium.As I said, there will be two Hublot Senna watches. The first is the "Hublot King Power Ayrton Senna." In almost all black, the watch is 48mm wide with a black Nomex (with yellow stitching) strap, and yellow elements in the hands and hour indicators. The skeletonized dials shows off part of the HUB4247 automatic movement - which is neat. For instance, the column wheel for the chronograph is right there on the dial. Despite the skeletonized interior of the dial, it is still easy to read given the large applied hour indicators. The movement has the time, split second 30 minute column-wheel based chronograph, and a power reserve indicator. This latter feature is particularly handsome as done in color dots. Hublot placed Senna's signature in yellow, right over the subsidiary seconds dial. The watch is extremely cool looking with 500 pieces available.I really do look forward to checking out these all carbon fiber Hublot cases. I am curious as to just how light they are, as well as the tactile feel they have under the fingers. These pieces also seem to have very intricate pushers. For example the start and stop pusher for the chronograph has a Senna logo placed in it, while the Hublot logo is int the crown. The execution of the piece is very thorough, and somehow avoids feeling cheesy.The second of the two limited edition pieces is much more limited and has another interesting quality. Limited to just 10 pieces, the "Hublot King Power Tourbillon Ayrton Senna" has a different caseback for each piece. If you look at the image gallery here I show you the 10 casebacks. Each is an image from a different point in Senna's life from the early 1980s to 1993. The pictures are emotionally rich points in Senna's driving career and were chosen by members of his family specially for the timepieces. The individual images on the caseback crystal are a nice idea from Hublot, and certainly will add desirability to the piece for Senna and F1 collectors.Inside the King Power Tourbillon Ayrton Senna is a tourbillon movement made entirely in-house at Hublot in its Confrerie Horlogere department (that is responsible for making Hublot's most complex haute horology movements). The HUB6300 movement has a flying tourbillon, column-wheel based monopusher chronograph, power reserve indicator, and time with subsidiary seconds dial. The flying tourbillon captures your attention in the lower part of the dial, with the subsidials being up top - once again you can see the exposed column wheel at the top of the dial in this instance. Like the split-second chrono model, there is a dot style power reserve indicator. The colors for the power reserve indicators are even applied in color SuperLumiNova. So with all the colors on the dial, these must look like spaceships glowing at night. The HUB6300 movement has a power reserve of up to 120 hours.The Tourbillon Ayrton Senna is really quite a show stopper. I quite like the in-house made movement and the design. The yellow strap is also Nomex but here has green and blue stitching - clearly a signal to the Brazilian flag. As a testament to Ayrton Senna's life, regretful death, and continuing legacy - these two limited edition Hublot watches are well done, and the special casebacks on the tourbillon model feel meaningful. Hublot and F1 collectors will be hard pressed to pass these up.

Zenith El Primero Tourbillon Watch

This is actually a tourbillon watch I would wear daily. Zenith's new El Primero collection of watches is a thing of beauty. I have been eying them for a while, enjoying how they look on the wrist. They have now announced a tourbillon version of it.Now most of the time when a company takes a new collection and shoves in a tourbillon I hardly take real notice, but in this instance Zenith has put together a satisfying set of feature that you could wear each day - assuming you can afford it of course.Let's pretend for a second that you can. There are two versions of the watch available. Each comes in a 44mm wide case. One is steel with a black and silver dial, and the other is in 18k rose gold with a silver and gold dial. The steel is my choice simply because I like the colors more - but each is quite lovely.Using the good looking new El Primero watch style case the the movement used is Zenith in-house made 4035D automatic tourbillon chronograph movement. Being a high-beat El Primero movement it runs at 36,000bpm and has a power reserve of 50 hours. The high frequency of the watch gives it added accuracy over other watches, especially tourbillons. Thus, you have something pretty accurate, and it is also an automatic. The chronograph functions are neatly integrated on the dial in an asymmetrical fashion. The subdials are thankfully really easy to read.Zenith uses a new date display system around the tourbillon window. A small disc with a window in it is used to indicate the date, as it frames the exposed tourbillon window that doubles as a subsidiary seconds dial. The retro functional feel of the dial is what sells me on the looks of it. Not ultra "exciting" at first, the style and easy to enjoy looks of the dial do grow on you.Turn the watch over and you'll find a handsome exposed movement through the sapphire crystal caseback window. I like the Zenith star logo cut into the automatic rotor. Back on the dial the hour indicators and hands are great. Very complex looking, the hour markers are applied and have SuperLumiNova on them. Hands are sized well and easy to read. You also forget with how simple it is all put together that this is a serious piece of haute horology. I would totally wear one daily. Price is $49,700 for the steel version and $66,800 for the 18k gold version.See Zenith watches on eBay here.See Zenith watches on Amazon here.            Movado Gold Filled Museum Watch w Swiss Zenith 17J Mechanical Movement$50.00 (1 Bid)

Swiss Army Victorinox Dive Master 500 Mechanical Watch Review

Swiss Army Victorinox watches are very important to the watch industry in my opinion. For many people not familiar with the greater breadth of offerings from the watch industry, these Swiss timepieces are a creamy options when wanting a piece that combines good design, sporty styling, and solid value. As a kid I grew up knowing about Swiss Army watches, and not so secretly wanted one. I recall in college an friend of mine who had received one as a gift wearing it around (as I admired it). He wasn't at all a watch person, but liked its chunky substantial feel, and dead-easy to read dial. Swiss Army for many people represent a good choice for a nice watch, and the brands hold's this reputation well.It all starts with the logo. The little Swiss flag made into a strong looking shield. It is a slight modification of the logo of the actual Swiss Military. A not so subtle reminder of the value of the Swiss watch industry, and the strength of the brand. In my opinion, this is one of the most clever logos in the watch industry. Being attractive, while at the same time communicating the values of the brand and the Swiss timepiece industry. This even persists despite the ironic nature of the Swiss army itself - which is more or less a peace keeping force. So you have a brand built around the idea of a durable high-activity timepieces, but with the name of a lack-luster military power. Switzerland is a well-known neutral country and has a small armed forces unit that never makes the news. When was the last time you actually heard of the Swiss army? Google "Swiss Army" and the watch brand holds the first few positions. If anything, the best thing that happened to the Swiss military was Swiss Army watches. Interestingly enough, according to Wikipedia, the Swiss army has mandatory services for males when they reach age 19. Though no one has ever mentioned this to me while I was in Switzerland.The vision of the Swiss army has been over taken by watches, and we can thank Swiss Army for that. They add the Victorinox name in there because no brand can sustain a trademark with a name like "Swiss Army." The success of the brand has yielded many competitors who have similar names and symbols. These include Wenger and Swiss Military Watches. But I digress.A few years ago Swiss Army Victorinox decided to ramp up (substantially) its presence in the mechanical watch market. The idea was to take the core look and values of the brand, and produce higher-end pieces. As such, the brand would retain its core market of quartz based timepieces, and supplement it with mechanical watches that has the same feeling, but with upgraded cases, components, and of course movements. The positive association with the brand would make it easy for a generation of Swiss Army watch lovers to "graduate" to mechanical watches from their quartz timepieces. Staying in the same brand would be of course good for Swiss Army.So you started to see mechanical watches. Often in limited editions models, Swiss Army has now offers full (non-limited) collections of Mechanical watches that are quite impressive. Many of them feel like more polished and better conceived versions of the military-esque mechanical watches that Hamilton has been offering for years. Hamilton just sometimes offers totally weird stuff that I don't understand. I appreciate the experimentation, but Swiss Army seems to retain a more conservative quality to their mechanical watches that I appreciate.A few years ago the Swiss Army Dive Master collection of watches came out to my delight. From the first time I saw them I loved the quartz based dive watches that came in cool gunmetal gray cases. As I pointed out above, Swiss Army released a limited edition mechanical version of the Dive Master, and eventually a full line of mechanical diver watches called the Dive Master 500 Mecha (or Mechanical) collection.Dial design differed from the quartz models. It is a matter of taste which you prefer. The dials for the Mecha models are a bit more intricate, but there is a bold simplicity to the quartz ones that I like.?? New for 2010 is this blue colored version of the Dive Master 500

CX Swiss Military Hurricane Watch Review

One of my favorite watches from last year was the CX Swiss Military Watch 20,000 Feet Diver (that I reviewed here). The titanium bubble cased watch was a hit for me, being over the top but totally a tool watch at the same time. While it is a behemoth to wear, it is fun, and well-done. Not to mention quite unique.CX Swiss Military watches tend to be hit and miss for me, but I am usually impressed by their limited edition models. These are often much more interesting than their standard collection, and feature a lot more design and attention by CX. The newest limited edition watch that CX Swiss Military released after the 20,000 Feet diver is this Hurricane timepiece. Not a diving style watch, this one is pointed more at the skies. Aviator themed in most all regards, the watch once again is a little over the top, but in a fun way, and still has a lot of functional substance.It is quite hard to sum up the watch in a few words. I see it as a different sort of "showy" pilot watch. Like a re-imagined Breitling or something. CX Swiss Military was careful to give the Hurricane some hallmark "pilot watch" features. These include a chronograph on a busy dial, large sized face, and of course, a rotating slide-rule bezel. My favorite design feature is the hand on the subsidiary seconds dial that is shaped like a propeller. Sure it doesn't spin very fast. but the effect is cool nonetheless.The dial design is an interesting mix between busy and not too cluttered. CX uses a sort of "quilted texture" dial. In my opinion this looks nicest in black. Though the watch does come with three other colored dials and it is hard to say how the dial style looks on each of those. Detailing on the dial is pleasing. The large applied hour markers are easy to spot, and the polished metal rings around the subdials is attractive. The only two issues I have with the dial are the hands and the lume. Even CX admits that the hands are small. They aren't unreadable, but small. CX felt that hands this size would not interfere too much with reading the subdials. This is true, but to be honest you are going to be reading the time way more than you are going to be reading the chronograph. The lume on the dial is OK, but I think that CX could have put a bit more on there.Around the dial is the slide-rule inner ring on the navigational bezel. The bezel is a bit tough to turn, but at least it doesn't slide around too easily. I like the design of it, being relatively thin in comparison to the size of the dial. It is also neat how the bezel tapers in, when looked at from the side.The Hurricane is a large watch at 47mm wide in steel. Heavy feeling at 150 grams, but unweildly. Which is amusingly ironic as it is named after a nimble World War II era English fighter plane named the "Hurricane." The finishing and colors on the case are great though. CX Swiss Military uses a black DLC coating application over the steel that gives it a very hard surface and a nice glossy look. In there are also red colored elements. These include rings and segments on the crown and pusher, as well as red paint on the screws on the back of the case. Never seen red screws like that before. The case itself is water resistant to 200 meters, has screw in pushers, is anti-magnetic, and has a sapphire crystal.This chronograph watch uses a COSC Chronometer certified Valjoux 7750 automatic movement. Not much more to say about that. Workhorse chronograph with the added value of the COSC certification. CX pairs the watch to a Swiss made treated leather strap (with sort of a suede like feel to it) that has red contrast stitching. The strap was a bit large for my smaller wrists. CX does however use special easy to remove pins to change out the strap. I had mine on a NATO strap for a while that had it looking quite cool.CX Swiss Military made 50 pieces of the Hurricane watch in each of the four dial colors (for a total of 200 watches in this limited edition). I really think the style of this watch will appeal to some people. DLC pilot watches are hard to find, and there is a good polish to the style of this timepiece. Price isn't bad either. About $2,000 (based on a 1,995 Swiss Francs price). You can get yourself one here.

Perrelet Regulator Retrograde Watch

The people at Perrelet are at it again, dancing the complication jig. This new Perrelet Regulator Retrograde watch mixes a few complications in a way that (to my knowledge) hasn't been done before. You have a retrograde hour display, regulator style separation between the hours, minutes, and seconds (that occupies the main dial), and a periphery style date display. The balance of the elements is quite good. Plus, there is likely to one one (or two) people in the world who have been dreaming for a watch that combines all these complications together.So if no one has been clamoring for a watch like this, what is the point? Well, to look cool. Watches with various different hands and types of dials are visually fascinating. People will look at the piece and ask "what exactly is going on there?" You can see how Perrelet split the watch in to two personalities (as is typical for them to do these days). There is the slightly larger sporty model in titanium that is 43.5mm wide, and a more formal version that is 42mm wide in a steel or gold case that is slightly more dressy in fashion. The watches have sapphire crystals and are water resistant to 100 meters (in titanium) and 50 meters (in steel or gold).Perrelet has succeeding in giving the watch a sort of art meets gadget look. I think that will appeal to enough people. A watch like this is also good for turning heads, asking people to check out what Perrelet has been up to. Powering the watch is their P-221 movement which is exclusive to Perrelet. The movement is an automatic with an exhibition caseback with a view to it on the back of the case. To change the date you need to press a small pusher on the side of the case.The steel model (ref. A1041/4) has a silvered dial and also comes with a black dial. It is matched to a black alligator strap and will retail for $8,275. The same model in gold (Ref A3014/5) will also have gold on the dial and retail for $20,250. In sporty titanium the watch has a different look and a rubber strap with a retail price of $9,200. Look for them soon.Tech specs from Perrelet:Regulator Retrograde: A1041/4 and A3014/5Movement: Automatic P-221, exclusive module Open-worked, exclusive decorated Perrelet rotor Power Reserve: 40 hours Vibrations per hour: 28’800 (4Hz) Rubies: 35 Case: ?? 42 mm Case material: A1041/4: Stainless Steel A3014/5: Pink gold (4N) 18ct Anti-glare sapphire crystal (front & back) Water resistance: 5 ATM Dial A1041/4: Silvered white A3014/5: Black Strap: Black alligator Stainless steel deployment buckle Public price: Steel A1041/4: CHF 8’200.— / Euro 5’900.— / US$ 8’275.— Gold A3014/5: CHF 20’500.— / Euro 14’700.— / US$ 20’250.—Regulator Retrograde Titanium: A5001/2Movement: Automatic P-221, exclusive module Open-worked, exclusive decorated Perrelet rotor Power Reserve: 40 hours Vibrations per hour: 28’800 (4Hz) Rubies: 35 Case: ?? 43.5 mm Case material: Titanium Anti-glare sapphire crystal (front & back) Water resistance: 10 ATM Dial: Black and anthracite, luminous indices Strap: Natural black rubber strap Titanium deployment buckle Public price

Sarpaneva Korona Moonshine Watch

Helsinki, Finland. Not the typical place for watch makers, but it is where the wild Stepan Sarpaneva calls home and creates his vividly interesting timepieces creations. Playing with his popular moon face, Stepan creates a new watch that utterly features the now popularized serious looking artful lunar gaze. Called the Korona Moonshine, the watch tells the time via a single rotating disc that moves around the periphery of the dial.You read the time in the lower region of the dial where a window opens up to reveal the moving disc. Right at the 6 o'clock position is a small arrow that is used in conjunction with indicators on the disc to tell the time. It isn't the most precise way to tell the time, but the trade-off might be worth it to have this "face" on your wrist.The time telling disc itself is covered in lume for night viewing. I think this is where the "shine" in moonshine comes in. It can be interpreted that the moon above the little window metaphorically provides the shine. Well, half of the disc is lumed. It is a 24 hour disc set up in four quadrants. Two of them contain lume. There are also stars on the disc. Why? because much of the time when a moon is placed on a watch dial, it is a accompanied by a few stars.Sarpaneva's "Korona" case is still sexy after a few years and various iterations of the watch. Stepan's design for the Korona case is quite good, offering visual interest and necessary symmetry. There is a shot here of a prototype of the watch on Stepan Sarpaneva's own wrist. You can see how well the Korona style case fits with the Moonshine concept.A watch like this is really about making a statement - much more so than other watches. Telling the time is second, and this piece is a testament to the enjoyment that many people have had looking at this more sober rendition of an anthropomorphized moon face. I first discussed these concept and pushed the issue further when writing about Sarpaneva here.This is a rebel watch in a world of Swiss and French domination - though it does have the polished design that the larger high-end watch industry is known to value. There will be three versions of the watch. Two in steel, with one of those being DLC coated in black. There will also be an 18k red gold model available. The case itself is 42mm thick, with an AR coated sapphire crystal and water resistant to 50 meters.Inside the watch is a modified Soprod A-10 automatic movement that Stepan likes to use. You can see the movement through a skeletonized case back. Really a fantastic piece with a lot of hand-built character. You'll be impressed by Sarpaneva's larger offerings if you are new to the brand. Will the Korona Moonshine be your first Sarpaneva? Not likely. You are more likely to go with another Korona model where you can get the same moon face (smaller) on a slightly more traditional looking watch. Though for those are are very "sold" on the Sarpaneva concept, then a piece like this is a sure winner. It has a design with the requisite attention for details that Sarpaneva has been known for, as well as a craziness and attention grabbing spirit that its owners are often looking for.

MARCH LA.B AM 1 Watch Review

Recently I was flipping through GQ magazine's annual "Style Guide." A special issue of their magazine dedicated to helping helpless male souls "dress better" (not that the advice is all bad, but it is extremely declarative and one-dimensional - though I do realize that assertive, aggressively consultative content does sell copies).?? Thankfully the issue had a section on watches, but as it turned out the section was written by fashion editors. Oh oh!. Actually, not everything they said was bad, though it left little room for 'argument.' They more or less offered a "one-size-fits-all" approach to recommending watches - which is clearly not in tune with the universe of timepiece options out there. When it came down to it they suggested getting your self a small, thin, gold watch.'Small' seemed to be an overarching tone in the guide. It was clearly marked for novices. Not once I believe, was the term "movement' mentioned. Why is it that fashion editors in New York are afraid of large watches? They seemed to make one exception for 44mm wide Panerai timepieces, which are clearly not very large by today's standards. Anyhow, looks like the fashion elite edict that small is in. This brings me to the point at hand, my review of the MARCH LA.B AM 1 watch that is 37mm wide. A segment of the watch wearing population seems to be arguing that large it out, some people are yelling "long live the large watch." I don't know why people need to assert the existence or denial of a trend. The only person who should care what the size of your watch is... well, is you. I personally prefer "larger" watches. Not because I think it is 'in,' but because that is what I like. I have always like that. But I have sported smaller pieces in my life, and I don't have a problem with it. Can't small and large watches live together in harmony... in one's timepiece collection?The AM 1 from newer watch brand MARCH LA.B is not a large watch by any means. The brand will be offering a 40mm wide version of it soon. So consider this review of the 37mm wide size and anything larger than that which might come out soon. I am usually very "generous in tone" with new brands, but I don't need to be with MARCH LA.B. As a new brand they have a lot of things right. Design is very cohesive and well put together. Quality is impressive, and the overall presentation is well thought out.I sat down with the brand's co-founder Jerome Jacques Marie Mageto discuss the concept of the brand and the design. The story in interesting. In a nutshell, the founders are from France, and Jerome is the design. They previously worked on eye and watches for Quicksilver. They wanted to team up and do their own watch brand, with Jerome being the design. Jerome, while French, has had a lifelong affinity for American muscle cars (especially the Mustang), and the era which birthed muscle cars. Jerome wanted to design an elegant timepiece that was still masculine and evoked the muscle car era. Something that a well-dressed GTO Judge driver might wear with a leather jacket cira 1969. The AM 1 isn't exactly a "muscle watch," but from a design and thematic standpoint I see the brand's point and position.The AM 1 is their major model in the MARCH LA.B collection - and it is a stand up design. Retro and still totally unique. Jerome has proved himself to be an adept watch designer. The firm was also able to team up with some stellar Swiss suppliers. Which accounts for the quality of the watches being quite high. Little things that new brands often get wrong are very well done on the AM 1. Examples include the very nicely engineered bracelet as well as pristine dial. Nods to the past are bountiful. Including the style of clasp on the strap as well as the domed sapphire-coated mineral crystal meant to look like an acrylic crystal. The design of the dial itself is totally passable as something spacey from 1967. Case further is water resistant to 100 meters.More enjoyable little detains include the design of the crown - which is unique with its textured surface and green logo inlay (a touch more green on the dial periphery). The watch case is a very fluid design with good contrast polish and an enjoyable shape. Also note the very cool looking engraving on the back of the case that is a top with watch gears inside of it. This is one of the neatest pictographic watch logos I have seen in a while.The standard AM 1 has a Swiss Ronda 517 quartz movement in it, but the brand does offer some version with mechanical movements. More mechanical movements to come in the future as I understand. While it is another topic all together MARCH LA.B has a special relationship with Carroll Shelby, and will offer a limited edition 40mm wide special version of the AM 1 with a automatic mechanical movement that I discuss here. The Ronda 517 is a nice three hand with day/date movement. MARCH LA.B uses custom discs for the day and date with a special font - another nice detail.The designer has really proved himself here. Not just in concept, but as well as execution. I have seen plenty of watches that look killer on paper, only to let down in real-life. Jerome Mage being a man with an eye for style and detail, wearing a watch like this is as much about the design, as it is buying into the talent of Mr. Mage. Ideally he has the power to cast spells with a name like that.The gap-less steel bracelet that is great looking and comfortable is really a selling point of the AM 1 - though it is available with leather straps (and in PVD gold for the case). For people who enjoy a 37mm wide watch, the AM 1 is really nice on the wrist and well designed. As I say about many timepieces, even if you don't personally like the piece from an aesthetic standpoint, it is hard to argue that it is not a good execution of what it is meant to be. It also makes for a good women's watch for ladies who enjoy the look of it. With a few different dial colors and styles, as well as various strap options, the AM 1 is well-rounded right out of the bag. Like I said. for those who simply can't pull off a 37mm wide size, a 40mm wide versions should be available soon.The AM 1 watch comes in a well-design travel pouch with a green velvet style lining. You can get the entire MARCH LA.B watch collection online via their web store. This specific 37mm AM 1 watch with a steel bracelet and silver dial retains for $1,090, while the entire collection ranges in price from $895 - $1,260.